EA81 Electronic dizzy wiring

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Wooster
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EA81 Electronic dizzy wiring

Post by Wooster » Thu Jan 10, 2013 8:56 am

Just paid a mottzer to have an electronic dizzy totally rebuilt, now to transplant it .
Will need to remove the old ballast type coil & replace it- no dramas, ready to rock & roll
Question is
do we leave the two wires from the Ballast redundant or do we join them or ???????.
Also the electronic dizzy (different coloured wires to the points version) has one yellow wire & one black & white wire, I'm assumeing the BW wire is the positive?

cheers in anticipation

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Silverbullet
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Post by Silverbullet » Thu Jan 10, 2013 10:17 am

Does this help? Yellow goes under the white cap, black goes to the red cap.

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Post by Wooster » Thu Jan 10, 2013 10:27 am

Champion, ta mate as I assumed , any ideas on the ballast wires, are they simply left swinging in the breeze or is there a need to join them?

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Silverbullet
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Post by Silverbullet » Thu Jan 10, 2013 10:32 am

I'm not sure, I don't think my Brum ever had a ballast type coil so the wires aren't there. My wagon did have it but the engine bay is stripped at the moment.
Will it ever end!?
-EA81 TWIN CARB!!!!
-L series 5 speed
-Custom paint job
-2" lift
-Full custom re-wire
-L series front end
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Wooster
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Post by Wooster » Thu Jan 10, 2013 10:33 am

Cheers mate, thanks

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sublime
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Post by sublime » Thu Jan 10, 2013 2:09 pm

When I installed an electronic dizzy the ballast wires had to be joined, car would not start otherwise.
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Wooster
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Post by Wooster » Thu Jan 10, 2013 2:14 pm

Thanks mate,

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steptoe
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Post by steptoe » Thu Jan 10, 2013 2:41 pm

yeah, as you think about it, wire into ballast is intended for the positive coil terminal just at a voltage reduction, so maybe best worded as bypass the ballast resistor ?

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Wiring Diagram ...

Post by Bantum » Thu Jan 10, 2013 4:31 pm

I have the Electronic Dizzy in MY Brumby - it does'nt have a resistor.

Also tried to find a wiring diagram, the closest I could find was this ...

http://arrc.epnet.com/autoapp/8790/chil ... 902008.gif

Link to image may work ...

I might have a go at doing a better drawing of it later ... :)

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TOONGA
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Post by TOONGA » Thu Jan 10, 2013 6:57 pm

either leave the ballast resistor in place and wired up correctly, or get a resistor coil to suit the dizzy.

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Bantum
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Post by Bantum » Fri Jan 11, 2013 1:22 am

I can't quite make out the type of coil in this ... must be a resistor type ?

Image

But notice the dizzy + leads have been installed incorrect ( before I got it ) - I had to rotoate it 180 deg as the firing order was back to front - it still ran ok though ... ;)

So yeah, best to check you've got it installed correctly ... :)

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Wooster
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Post by Wooster » Fri Jan 11, 2013 6:23 am

All done & dusted & thanks for the help guys. Ran the +wire that had been attached to the ballast direct to the + on the new coil. Yellow wire from the new electronic dizzy to the - on the new coil, the black & white wire to the + & boom away we went. That is until she failed, it worked out that the previous owner had installed an after market electric fuel pump which was wired into the old dizzy, anyway sorted. cheers & for our next adventure?

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Wooster
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Post by Wooster » Fri Jan 11, 2013 6:26 am

BTW the total cost of the professional rebuild of the electronic distributor was just under $300, so I expect no problems for at least the next 300 years.

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steptoe
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Post by steptoe » Fri Jan 11, 2013 6:44 am

Another job bites the dust - in a good way. You have entered the world of no need to replace the points, or regap them, or clean them :)
That $300 included a new module then ? They retail for about $100 here, or $40 on ebay in the US. I am supposed to keep a spare in each ute - it's about the only thing that can cripple a Brumby :)

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Wooster
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Post by Wooster » Fri Jan 11, 2013 6:55 am

A bit exy in my books but yes 100% rebuild, cheers

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