automatic to 5 gear

Kralle · Post by **Kralle** » Sun Nov 29, 2009 8:45 am

Hello,
at the moment i change over my automatic l-series to a 5-gear l-series,
now the question, how can I dismantel the torque converter?

here a picture

Gannon · Post by **Gannon** » Sun Nov 29, 2009 9:02 am

Welcome to the forum!

There are 4 bolts on the engine side of the ring gear that holds the torque converter to the flex plate. You should be able to get access to them from the bottom of the bell housing.

Tell us more about yourself and the car you drive

steptoe · Post by **steptoe** » Sun Nov 29, 2009 9:58 am

The picture does assist with your translation. We can see you have removed engine from the car with the torque converter still attached to the drive / flex plate.
When the engine and auto are still together in the car or out access to the 12mm head bolts is through the timing mark aperture of the engine bellhousing. These bolts are sometimes extremely tight. There is not the normal size depth of the bolt to get a good grip on with socket and can slip and ruin the head making it even harder to remove.

A flange drive socket is best as it contacts the middle of the flats of the hex head and less likely to slip and damage the bolt head.

You will likely need to make a temporary brace or bracket to fit between the long stud in the bell housing and the teeth of the drive plate to stop it turning when you are undoing the torque converter bolts. Sometime I use a tyre lever to brace this with engine on the ground, my foot on the tyre lever which sits on the long stud and fit the lever end in the teeth of torque converter.

YouTube · Post by **El_Freddo** » Sun Nov 29, 2009 9:52 pm

steptoe wrote:You will likely need to make a temporary brace or bracket to fit between the long stud in the bell housing and the teeth of the drive plate to stop it turning when you are undoing the torque converter bolts. Sometime I use a tyre lever to brace this with engine on the ground, my foot on the tyre lever which sits on the long stud and fit the lever end in the teeth of torque converter.

Or just shove a nut between the teeth of the flywheel and the bell housing so its working against you...

Cheers

Bennie

Kralle · Post by **Kralle** » Thu Dec 03, 2009 5:51 am

I exchanged my automatic to a 5 gear, all works good, now my other problem, the water in the radiater foames, bubble and is less-> head gasket damaged, or at least damaged turbocharger?
Also my subaru dealer said that he didn't know if there any parts availible for such an old car, and he have to look if there are some parts in japan, can you all buy parts for your subaru in australia?

Also I want to lift it up 4" or better 6"

it is posible to send a lift kit to germany or do you think its easy to produce such a lift kit by my self?

YouTube · Post by **El_Freddo** » Thu Dec 03, 2009 8:29 am

Yeah that'll be a headgasket. I doubt there'd be much trouble with the turbo as the EA82's are prone to popping head gaskets, more so with the turbo EA's.

As for parts I havn't had problems getting them new, secondhand or aftermarket. I usually get them secondhand or aftermarket as new genuine is very expensive and my subi is anything but genuine!

Cheers

Bennie

steptoe · Post by **steptoe** » Thu Dec 03, 2009 10:59 am

Whoa, Bennie, careful what you say !! Not all new genuine from Subaru parts are expensive compared to aftermarket or second hand. EG sump gaskets same price new or aftermarket. 3 plug ecu's ignition coil less than half aftermarket price, genuine stuff is always a good fit and the right part. I have not always been able to get my EA82T stuf immediately from Subaru Australia, but within a few weeks from Japan I got my ig coil, my head valve springs.So far we have survived in the parts buying between genuine and aftermarket. You are closer to Ajusa head gaskets in Spain, than we are.

Refering to your initial question, did you want to dismantle the torque converter to see what is inside and how it works?

Once you have the cylinder heads off have them crack tested at your machine shop and get them serviced as in valve grind and new valve stem seals, check the valve guides as well.

YouTube · Post by **El_Freddo** » Thu Dec 03, 2009 11:39 am

Well generally speaking steptoe this is what I've found...

Cheers

Bennie

steptoe · Post by **steptoe** » Thu Dec 03, 2009 11:38 pm

On your side of the argument may be the ignition module for MY and L carby models. $100 aftermarket or $600 genuine and wait for import.

Kralle · Post by **Kralle** » Mon Dec 14, 2009 7:59 am

the next thing i will do is to replace my turbocharger, because he has big tore, i bought a very cheap turbocharger, with A/R 50 compressor housing and A/R 63 exhaust housing, do you think this will work in a EA82T, the producer sais the turbo is for engines from 1,8l up to 2,5l

steptoe · Post by **steptoe** » Mon Dec 14, 2009 1:01 pm

discopotato03 is the one to ask, send him a PM