
What's up with the chamfer as well ?
Cheers, Bantum ...
Moderator: El_Freddo
Yeah, learnt that with this fix. It's a good thing to know too - and relatively simple to do.tambox wrote:Yep, when playing with different casings/gears, that little plate with the detent holes often has to be re-drilled/extended.
Yep. This low range came from a box that was worked from time to time. I decided on this set as it didn't make any noise, unlike the one I had in my current gearbox at the time...tambox wrote:Got an oil feed for the low range??
Your teeth are getting marked (love quality photo's)
You've gone back to a manual yeah? You could do a diff ratio match if you're keen on sorting it out...vincentvega wrote:well done getting the speedo spot on mate. i miss mine being accurate.
It was really pot luck mate! But you can call one me and we'll see what we can come up withvincentvega wrote:If i ever have to open the box up i will look into sorting the speedo (and will be chasing you for advice!!)
Thanks Coxy, knowing your expertise it means a lot. And thanks for the tips on the bundy tube, I'll get onto that for sure next time the box is open (maybe 4.44:1 diff ratio swap?coxy wrote:Nice work on the Gearbox Mods El Freddo possibly the only thing I would consider doing differently is not to use copper pipe for the oiul squirters as sooner or later it will vibration fracture because it is not supported.
The material spec I would use to make those Oil squirter tubes from would be what is known as Bundy Tube this is a special seamless steel tube normally used as the correct application for Fuel Lines and available in the same sizes as the copper tube...
...So I would use Bundy tube for the next gearbox Mod and silver solder the fittings rather than normal solder as it is much stronger and has better vibration resistence unlike normal soldered joints.
I'll have to look into that. They've only just been uploaded so there shouldn't be an issue and they worked for me last night. Seems a lot of my old images have been dropped here and there tooNachaLuva wrote:Looks like a couple of pics didnt work.
El_Freddo wrote:
steptoe wrote:Just been rereading this post and found a connection with #25. I have got my Subaru CV punch stuck in a rear diff DOJ and it will only budge and not come out ! Stuffed if I know how it can get stuck somewhere in the middle
Gees , those pics are big. Was only just thinking today I should shove a used set of belts in the boot - just in case, and was looking at idler and tensioner bearings of EA82T I am pulling down, shove them in too, and the tools I suppose.Those photos look like they could sell a few timing belt kits complete with tensioners and idler!! They feel and sound rough spinning freely but gave no noise indication when engine was put through its paces. Heads are off, see score mark on offending cylinder, no cracks, no holes
Can almost smell the belt, or is it leftover from following a fella up the highway in an RS looking Lib. Front left tyre smoking and shredding away. Someone up front alerted him to the fact. Must be AWD makes it hard to feel a flat tyre shredding away !

