Water Crossings, How deep will a L series with 2" lift

wagonist · Post by **wagonist** » Thu Dec 08, 2005 2:28 pm

Air into the intake will not stall the motor before it reaches the motor.

Personally, I don't know why some people go to all the trouble sometimes.

I've forded streams with water half way up the windscreen with lift kit, 14's, but no tube extensions for diff or gearbox (maybe that's why the centre diff went in the box though

), no glove over dizzy.

If you can create the right bow wave & if possible have the left side of the car (the distributor side) downsteam, then you can go pretty deep.

Ron was a pretty cautious guy but kept his cars in good nick though too.

And whatever you do, DO NOT seal up the timing belt covers. You'll simply overheat them. Water can't get from them into the motor unless your seals are stuffed.

smoov · Post by **smoov** » Thu Dec 08, 2005 5:20 pm

tim_81coupe wrote:
smoov wrote: Also another issue that isnt covered are wheel bearings. Do a few water crossings, and within a few months, you can kiss your bearings goodbye. Replace them with sealed ones. As to the part numbers, perhaps someone would be as so kind to quote numbers. There is a thread floating around here with the info you need on these.

Nerd to the rescue! The normal units are a 6207 bearing, 35 ID, 72 OD, 17mm wide. To get a sealed one, use the number 6207ZZ. This bearing is entirely metal cased and pre-lubricated. However it costs about twice as much as a standard bearing, but I'd say its worth it if you want to come into contact with water on a regular basis.

Thanks for that tim. is that the numer for the fronts or rears? Would you happen to have the numbers for the others too?

I think I may have to force myself to replace my 3 month old bearings soon

tim_81coupe · Post by **tim_81coupe** » Thu Dec 08, 2005 7:39 pm

That's for the fronts. I'll check the rears out tomorrow.

smoov · Post by **smoov** » Thu Dec 08, 2005 8:26 pm

cheers mate

FISH_Stalker · Post by **FISH_Stalker** » Fri Dec 09, 2005 8:14 am

I have been threw a river in my 84 wagon with no Lift. water was well over the front bumper, Just over the bonnet. All I had was a tarp covering the front of it. I was suprised it didnt stall.

PS, i have cut the front and the back of the cleaner box out, for a little more performance. After we crossed I had a look at the filter and it was pretty wet

wagonist · Post by **wagonist** » Fri Dec 09, 2005 10:03 am

Cars with the EA81 motor have a lot more problems because the distributor is on the front of the motor just behind the radiator. Whereas the L series is on the back instead.

PeeJay · Post by **PeeJay** » Fri Dec 09, 2005 1:09 pm

I never had problems with the distributor while I had the rubber seal working in my EA81.

I did have major problems with wet air filters! The filter was the only thing keeping the water out!

Fang · Post by **Fang** » Fri Dec 09, 2005 1:15 pm

My problem too Peejay. They dont tend to like drinks of water I have found

I am going to revert back to the the original air cleaner - will have to do some chopping and welding for the Weber

SuBaRiNo · Post by **SuBaRiNo** » Sat Dec 10, 2005 2:27 pm

Im not going to coment on this too much... my last few river/swamp crossings have cost me well ober $3000 in damages. Im still trying to get the smell out of the carpets and seats.

Dave

tim_81coupe · Post by **tim_81coupe** » Sat Dec 10, 2005 3:57 pm

I just realised this morning, smoov, that I've given you MY part numbers! Not sure if I can get the numbers for sealed L series fronts, they're a different type of bearing aren't they?

The rears are a single piece unit that look sealed already. Only way I can think of immediately to make them more water-safe would be to use silicone hub seals.

I need to research this a bit more I think.

aspro · Post by **aspro** » Sat Dec 10, 2005 10:38 pm

Tim you are a legend, let us know when you have the numbers and i will place an order

Guest · Post by **Guest** » Sat Dec 10, 2005 11:56 pm

Aren't the fronts the same on both L and MY?

PeeJay · Post by **PeeJay** » Sun Dec 11, 2005 11:34 am

I sure hope so because I have a set of Nachi 6207s here for my old car that I never ended up using.

aspro · Post by **aspro** » Mon Dec 12, 2005 10:43 pm

ASPRO your pics did not work.

Sorry about that Kerry :)heres a link to my webshot folder
http://community.webshots.com/user/aspro109
Hope you enjoy

Have used a hostng service before but have lost the details

Ben · Post by **Ben** » Tue Dec 13, 2005 7:37 am

MUDRAT wrote:Aren't the fronts the same on both L and MY?

Yeah, MY and L have the same front bearings (use 62072RS as they are cheaper than the steel sealed ZZ's) but the oil seal is different between the two models. If you are running sealed bearings just use the old oil seals anyway.

You can't get sealed rears as they are tapered bearings.

tim_81coupe · Post by **tim_81coupe** » Tue Dec 13, 2005 9:30 am

LOL. That's what I found out yesterday and forgot to post last night :P

I can't help at all with the rears.

I don't know about using the 62072RS bearings in a wheel bearing environment, there's a lot of heat and pressure and I have seen bearings in other environments pop those little rubber seals out, which is why I recommended the ZZ bearing.

But, that said the 2RS will probably be up to the job. I just feel the ZZ is the safer choice.