If you can find a length of pipe (plastic, brass or steel) remove the manual controller and replace it with a peice of pipe to hold the rubber tubes together, until you can get some one to fix what even has been done to the setup. you will have a working boost gauge again.
this is a short term fix, because as stated too much boost will make your engine blow up.
TOONGA
WRX High revving at startup
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Gannon
- Senior Member
- Posts: 4580
- Joined: Sat Nov 05, 2005 10:00 am
- Location: Bowraville, Mid Nth Coast, NSW
This is how it is connected from factory.
Chances are the restrictor is long gone, but you can use a 0.9mm mig welding tip jammed up the lower hose. Worked ok on mine
Chances are the restrictor is long gone, but you can use a 0.9mm mig welding tip jammed up the lower hose. Worked ok on mine
Current rides: 2016 Mitsubishi Triton GLS & 2004 Forester X
Ongoing Project/Toy: 1987 RX Turbo EA82T, Speeduino ECU, Coil-pack ignition, 440cc Injectors, KONI adjustale front struts, Hybrid L Series/ Liberty AWD 5sp
Past rides: 92 L series turbo converted wagon, 83 Leone GL Sedan, 2004 Liberty GT Sedan & 2001 Outback
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Ongoing Project/Toy: 1987 RX Turbo EA82T, Speeduino ECU, Coil-pack ignition, 440cc Injectors, KONI adjustale front struts, Hybrid L Series/ Liberty AWD 5sp
Past rides: 92 L series turbo converted wagon, 83 Leone GL Sedan, 2004 Liberty GT Sedan & 2001 Outback
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In case I needed the manual controller again, I decided to wrap the hole in fabric and electrical tape. The boost gauge now works! I think there still is a limit to the psi as 5 psi was the highest the gauge would go. Maybe the manual controller is useless and the boost is set from the ecu?TOONGA wrote:If you can find a length of pipe (plastic, brass or steel) remove the manual controller and replace it with a peice of pipe to hold the rubber tubes together, until you can get some one to fix what even has been done to the setup. you will have a working boost gauge again.
this is a short term fix, because as stated too much boost will make your engine blow up.
TOONGA
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RSR 555
- Elder Member
- Posts: 6951
- Joined: Sat Nov 10, 2007 10:42 am
- Location: ATM... stuck in Rockingham
Most likely someone have removed the restrictor olive. The ECU controls the boost but only can if the sensors are receiving the correct inputs.
Again, you'd be best to put back to standard and from there you can look at fitting a boost controller. IMO the manual ones are too dangerous and are one of the main causes for engine fail but your car = your choice.
Again, you'd be best to put back to standard and from there you can look at fitting a boost controller. IMO the manual ones are too dangerous and are one of the main causes for engine fail but your car = your choice.
You know you are getting old when the candles on your birthday cake start to cost more than the cake itself.
RSR Performance
Home of the 'MURTAYA' in Oz
Subaru Impreza WRX based Sportscar
[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]
Disclaimer: Not my website but hyperlink here to Subaru workshop manuals
RSR Performance
Home of the 'MURTAYA' in Oz
Subaru Impreza WRX based Sportscar
[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]
Disclaimer: Not my website but hyperlink here to Subaru workshop manuals
wanky wagon was running a manual controller, i had it set to 18psi, on a cold night it would spike up to 20-21psi and sometimes cause boost cut.RSR 555 wrote:IMO the manual ones are too dangerous and are one of the main causes for engine fail but your car = your choice.
+1 for electronic. Manual controllers suck.
alex
my07 Outback
my13 Hyundai i45(shhhh)
my02 Gen3 Liberty limited ed.
previously
L-series wagon, LSD, EJ20turbo, 29in tyres, 'wanky wagon'
2000 gen3 outback, lifted, otherwise stock.
my13 Hyundai i45(shhhh)
my02 Gen3 Liberty limited ed.
previously
L-series wagon, LSD, EJ20turbo, 29in tyres, 'wanky wagon'
2000 gen3 outback, lifted, otherwise stock.
For now I have put the boost controller issue aside as the engine of my car freaks out on start up. I lost interest in this topic a few days ago because my car started working fine for a while until the last couple days... As soon as the weather turns cold and wet, my car starts to play up. The problem is starting to get worse.
There are "phases" in the start up of the car in the cold, wet weather. First, the engine revs to about 2k - 2.5k for 30 - 60 seconds. It then starts to fluctuate slowly from 1k to 2k then back again for about another 2 minutes. Then the rpm lowers slightly to about 1.5k and starts to fluctuate faster around that rpm range. When this happens the engine light turns on and the whole car starts to vibrate more than usual. After a couple minutes of this the car finally calms down and I don't sound like a hoon at the lights. On one occasion the rpm dropped to almost 0, the battery and engine light turned on and the car vibrated strongly. I immediately turned the car off when that happened.
Tomorrow I will record the car starting up on my phone and post it. Hopefully this will give a better explanation to what is happening.
There are "phases" in the start up of the car in the cold, wet weather. First, the engine revs to about 2k - 2.5k for 30 - 60 seconds. It then starts to fluctuate slowly from 1k to 2k then back again for about another 2 minutes. Then the rpm lowers slightly to about 1.5k and starts to fluctuate faster around that rpm range. When this happens the engine light turns on and the whole car starts to vibrate more than usual. After a couple minutes of this the car finally calms down and I don't sound like a hoon at the lights. On one occasion the rpm dropped to almost 0, the battery and engine light turned on and the car vibrated strongly. I immediately turned the car off when that happened.
Tomorrow I will record the car starting up on my phone and post it. Hopefully this will give a better explanation to what is happening.