EJ AWD into EA 4wd gearbox

PeeJay · Post by **PeeJay** » Sat Dec 08, 2007 10:38 am

Doing a new crossmember for my Forester box took about 6-8 hours. I just cut the front of the new and old crossmembers in about the same place, bolted the old one to the car and the new one to the gearbox, tacked them together under the car, then took it out and finished it off.

Gear linkages are the same process, cut tack and weld.

Tailshaft just happens to be 60mm ID and I just happened to have some galvanised pipe laying around that was a perfectly tight fit into the tailshaft. Just have an 80mm overlap on each side. I made it too short the first time so I had to cut it and try again, but even still there is no vibration at all upto 100km/h (That's the fastest I've been so far.)

PeeJay · Post by **PeeJay** » Sat Dec 08, 2007 10:55 am

AndrewT · Post by **AndrewT** » Sat Dec 08, 2007 12:26 pm

Yep thats almost exactly the same as mine, except the rear part I kept the full length of that existing crossmember going underneath the 1" box tube sections and put anti-squash tubes inside with bolts going the full way through (because of the lift kit).
Mine only took about 20 minutes to make but that's cause Oversteer did it for me and he's done it a few times before - he did it basically from memory without even my car there, took it home and it lined up perfect

Hopefully post pics soon!

discopotato03 · Post by **discopotato03** » Sat Dec 08, 2007 3:06 pm

I'd like to see the before and after std crossmembers if possible please .
The rally people who've done my fabrications in the past generally prefer to use the existing crossmembers and weld suitable platforms on those if possible .
Can anyone tell me precisely how much shorter the front half of the tailshaft has to be ?
Sorry guys but I shudder when I see cut and shut tailshafts , I'd just get the std one shortened and it'd be a good excuse to get the front joint from an MY and have a rebuildable uni joint .

One other thing (a bit O/T) , any idea why the Aus Lib RS had reduction transfer gears and a taller rear diff ? Was this done to standardise the rear ratio on all AWD Aus spec Libs ?

Anyway have SR AWD L box as well so possibly time to turn it into the proceeds for a Lib DR AWB box with L casings . I'll try the L DR AWD box first and if I find it lacking go the other way .

Cheers A .

AlpineRaven · Post by **AlpineRaven** » Tue Mar 24, 2009 8:57 pm

Make this sticky!!! and also can people add what they've done with their boxes?
Cheers
AP

AlpineRaven · Post by **AlpineRaven** » Tue Mar 24, 2009 9:42 pm

MY_STI wrote:After some delay here are some pics, hope it makes things a little clearer.

The case on the left has the extra bit for the detend welded in.
Something I forgot to mention before is that the L 1st/2nd selector fork doesn't fit on the lib selector, fortunatly the lib selector fits on the L selector shaft.

Close up, not real pretty but it works, spring and ball go in the hole.

Lib low range selector fork is on the left, you can see the extra peice welded onto the L selector on the right, although its not quite in the right spot.

The low range selectors themselves, L on the right, Lib on the left.

Upper lib gearset in an EA case, the peice on the end will have to be changed to the L item for L low range, again, interchangeable.

Just for fun, a dry assembly of the ea cases and ej extension housings.

Happy Gearboxing!

Can you clear something up for me here (pretty tired here) do i still need to weld the selector in my AWD EJ box? as I am going to install L Series's 1.59:1 in my EJ box... Is there any welding involved? (if it is.. that is a problem for me!!) (except machining parts)

Cheers & thanks
AP

YouTube · Post by **El_Freddo** » Tue Mar 24, 2009 9:49 pm

AlpineRaven wrote:Can you clear something up for me here (pretty tired here) do i still need to weld the selector in my AWD EJ box? as I am going to install L Series's 1.59:1 in my EJ box... Is there any welding involved? (if it is.. that is a problem for me!!) (except machining parts)

I have not done this but the way I understand it is that you'll need to weld tabs onto the side of the EA low range selector arm to then drill a little indent in them. This will allow you to use the dedent ball and spring inside the gearbox to hold the selected range (hi/low) - basically you're creating the same thing that the EJ arm has on the EA arm... If you don't the gearbox will decide when it wants to slip out of low or high range.

Hope this helps.

Cheers

Bennie

AlpineRaven · Post by **AlpineRaven** » Tue Mar 24, 2009 9:53 pm

El_Freddo wrote:I have not done this but the way I understand it is that you'll need to weld tabs onto the side of the EA low range selector arm to then drill a little indent in them. This will allow you to use the dedent ball and spring inside the gearbox to hold the selected range (hi/low) - basically you're creating the same thing that the EJ arm has on the EA arm... If you don't the gearbox will decide when it wants to slip out of low or high range.

Hope this helps.

Cheers

Bennie

Ok, it can be shown (will be) in L series gearbox once I crack it open - i could cut it out and get someone weld it in? (if it is then thats easy)
Cheers
AP

Phizinza · Post by **Phizinza** » Wed Mar 25, 2009 8:45 am

Suby Wan Kenobi wrote:You can just put the entire EJ box internals into the L series case but you will have to use the EJ rear part of the box and shorten the tailshaft

This is correct, would be easy to keep the L low range in the L casing too..

BTW, I have the Liberty D/R internals, and the L series casing. Only part needed to make that into a working L AWD box is the L low range. You can have it all for cheap if you want.

YouTube · Post by **El_Freddo** » Wed Mar 25, 2009 8:44 pm

Phizinza wrote:This is correct, would be easy to keep the L low range in the L casing too..

BTW, I have the Liberty D/R internals, and the L series casing. Only part needed to make that into a working L AWD box is the L low range. You can have it all for cheap if you want.

Hehehe, thanks Phiz... This is a rather old thread now and my plans have changed quite a bit since then. Latest plan is in my thead on the EJ conversion into Ruby Scoo.

The EA82 DR lockable AWD still looks good though

Cheers

Bennie

AlpineRaven · Post by **AlpineRaven** » Wed Mar 25, 2009 9:18 pm

Photos of Single Range AWD (from 2nd Gen Liberty) 3.7:1 ratio.

Photos each section of L series 3.7:1 ratio gearbox

1.59:1 ratio dual range section

I cracked both gearboxes tonight and what i learn't tonight, its lot easier than what I thought but you need to be full alert! springs, ball bearings, pins and circlips as they can go everywhere... On Saturday I am planning to get Dual Range AWD box from wreckers and crack it open and modify it and learn further and mix parts around.. I am looking forward to it!
Cheers
AP

YouTube · Post by **El_Freddo** » Wed Mar 25, 2009 9:36 pm

Looks good AP! I can't wait to get stuck into mine now! Let me know how hard it was to remove the Low Range gearing from the EA box and how you did it - this is the only bit that I'm not confident on as I've never had a box apart and have only read about splitting boxes. I'm pretty confident about balls and springs as I've had the rear off my gearbox before and that was a bit of fun - was that the only area they came from with the L box?

It really looks like you'll have this nailed in no time once you've got all the bits you need!!

Cheers

Bennie

discopotato03 · Post by **discopotato03** » Thu Mar 26, 2009 11:53 am

Interesting that the Gen 2 has a 3.7 ratio diff .
I think I remember reading that they used the close ratio gearset but with the taller turbo spec 5th gear pair , meaning (I think) slightly underdrive 4th and 0.78 5th .
I really miss that taller turbo 5th 0.78 ratio , 0.87 is great around the burbs but ~ 11% shorter on the open road .

Cheers A .

AlpineRaven · Post by **AlpineRaven** » Thu Mar 26, 2009 12:16 pm

discopotato03 wrote:Interesting that the Gen 2 has a 3.7 ratio diff .
I think I remember reading that they used the close ratio gearset but with the taller turbo spec 5th gear pair , meaning (I think) slightly underdrive 4th and 0.78 5th .
I really miss that taller turbo 5th 0.78 ratio , 0.87 is great around the burbs but ~ 11% shorter on the open road .

Cheers A .

Yeah don't forget its single range AWD. I'll have a look tonight so see how many teeths 5th has. The D/R box might have 3.9 or not, will find out on weekend, the box i'm going to get is from gen 2.
Cheers
AP

AlpineRaven · Post by **AlpineRaven** » Thu Mar 26, 2009 3:59 pm

just bought 2nd Gen 98 EJ D/R AWD gearbox for 88 bucks. Will crack it open on the weekend and will keep updates over the weekend.
Cheers
AP

AlpineRaven · Post by **AlpineRaven** » Thu Mar 26, 2009 7:41 pm

discopotato03 wrote:Interesting that the Gen 2 has a 3.7 ratio diff .
I think I remember reading that they used the close ratio gearset but with the taller turbo spec 5th gear pair , meaning (I think) slightly underdrive 4th and 0.78 5th .
I really miss that taller turbo 5th 0.78 ratio , 0.87 is great around the burbs but ~ 11% shorter on the open road .

Cheers A .

The single range box's 5th gear is 0.87:1 ratio. Same with L Series's 5th is the same.
Cheers
AP

AlpineRaven · Post by **AlpineRaven** » Thu Mar 26, 2009 7:44 pm

Yep, its 88 bucks that I pulled out from the wreckers... The gearbox number is TY752XGDAA that I pulled out from wreckers today.

The current gearbox in my liberty is TY752XGBAA... what is the difference between these two do you know guys??

Cheers
AP

YouTube · Post by **El_Freddo** » Thu Mar 26, 2009 8:43 pm

Bloody hell mate, which wreckers was that? I think I'll be paying near $130 at pick a part, but this is just a thought, I haven't actually checked it out as I haven't been back down there in a long time, in the next two weeks hopefully it'll happen

Also let us know if there's any odd tools you need to open the gearbox and swap bits around - I'll have to take every tool with me that I need as all the real work will be done in the yard, not at home. When it does get home it will be sorted for the car - bolts torqued etc.

Sounds like you're on a mission, good work!

Cheers

Bennie

AlpineRaven · Post by **AlpineRaven** » Thu Mar 26, 2009 9:16 pm

El_Freddo wrote:Bloody hell mate, which wreckers was that? I think I'll be paying near $130 at pick a part, but this is just a thought, I haven't actually checked it out as I haven't been back down there in a long time, in the next two weeks hopefully it'll happen

Also let us know if there's any odd tools you need to open the gearbox and swap bits around - I'll have to take every tool with me that I need as all the real work will be done in the yard, not at home. When it does get home it will be sorted for the car - bolts torqued etc.

Sounds like you're on a mission, good work!

Cheers

Bennie

Odd/special tools... nah nothing, just a 6mm pin to push out the gear selector pin... and most are either 10mm, 12mm, 14mm socket/spanner also soft hammer required to crack it open...

At the wrecker I actually gave them a "white lie" it was 5 speed RWD instead of 4WD (with transfer case) that is how i got it cheap...

Yeah can't wait to open the box up, I'm hoping it has 3.7:1 ratio diff!

Cheers
AP

YouTube · Post by **El_Freddo** » Thu Mar 26, 2009 9:34 pm

AlpineRaven wrote:At the wrecker I actually gave them a "white lie" it was 5 speed RWD instead of 4WD (with transfer case) that is how i got it cheap...

Yeah can't wait to open the box up, I'm hoping it has 3.7:1 ratio diff!

Yes, have heard about this trick - Gee the ol' dog told me its the way to go!

If its a 3.9 it wouldn't take much to track down a rear diff to match

If you could work out the gear needed to sort out your speedo, now would be the best time to put it in IF you're going to run oversized tyres...

Cheers

Bennie