89 Targa Brumby

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pedroj
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Post by pedroj » Fri Aug 05, 2016 8:37 pm

Hi Suby Spaner,
the thing you identified are the reason why that red 89 and I parted company, I could see a day when it was going to be terminal and as it was my first Brumby it was very dear to me and could not bare to watch it decay and did not have the welding skills to repair it... so bought another one in better condition.
Suby Spanner wrote:Hey Peter,
it can't have been used by a fisherman too much, as the body is pretty good. I agree about the door, that is pretty stuffed, my mate reckons repair it, but if I can find a decent door I might go that way. Passenger a pillar is the worst, but not as bad as many.
I am off this week, so would like to see if I can catch up to look at the beast.
will PM you with my contact details.

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Suby Spanner
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Post by Suby Spanner » Thu Sep 08, 2016 8:24 pm

Went to you pull it:
Got another passenger door, much better than mine.
Front mudflaps.
Complete air filter box
and two different types of air con fan

Haven't had time to mess with it yet:
Oh, and found my rear muffler delete pipe off my old brumby :)

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Suby Spanner
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Post by Suby Spanner » Sun Jun 25, 2017 5:20 pm

Had a few hours spare so got to work.

Rear wheel cylinders look to be leaking, no surprise really. Shoes ok, drums bit hammered, but haven't found a source of new ones. Ideas???

Up for a few CV's at the front. Will replace the joints with decent brand ones, no chinese shafts for me thanks!

Gearbox mounts are stuffed. I'll probably do engine mounts also. Just hit the usual repco/sprints/bursons for them???

I wanted to get the air con going, but the interior fan had seized up, so pulled that out to free up, and the A/C evapourator was full of leaves and muck, so I pulled that out also.... Green dye everywhere... Bugger, I'm up for an evap core. I'd prefer new, anyone got a source for them? Mines a weird looking thing, very different from what's on ebay :(

I'll sort the shifter also, just hit subaru for a bush kit I guess.

A steering rack boot is split, no big deal, my steering guys have the original style, not those universal junky ones.

Managed to free up all the adjustable height suspension, so he's sitting nice and high :)

Other wise it all appears pretty sound.

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pedroj
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Post by pedroj » Sun Jun 25, 2017 8:01 pm

Sounds like some real progress, we have joined the brumby club again, another red one but a 92 with a red canopy (will come off soon). have fitted some liberty seats to mine...

Oh the green dye in the air con was probably from me, had the air con guys put some dye in to try and locate the slow leak it had, never did open up the fan box on that one. Gee sad to hear the CV's are dead, I replaced them with good quality ones sourced through my local Suby dealer.. Keep up the good work.
Peter

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Suby Spanner
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Post by Suby Spanner » Fri Jul 28, 2017 11:59 pm

So my CV guys tell me they weren't genuine shafts, so they must have been changed again at some stage. I could salvage on, but the other needed replacing.

Got new engine and gearbox mounts for him.

Since getting a new radiator and thermostat, he started putting a few drops of coolant on the ground every morning, water pumps shot. So got a new one of them to.

Does anyone know where I can get the front suspension bushes in rubber? I'd prefer not to go nolathane/plastic type of bush, but I can't find anyone doing them in rubber still.

Really would love to get a new evapourator core, but can't source anything. Any ideas gladly accepted.

Oh, and it's registered now! Yay :)

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Silverbullet
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Post by Silverbullet » Sat Jul 29, 2017 9:31 am

Suby Spanner wrote: Really would love to get a new evapourator core, but can't source anything. Any ideas gladly accepted.
Because of the design of the old evap core/whole A/C system you really need a genuine unit. Something about the valve in there. New original units are not available anymore, I went down the road of trying to source an aftermarket alternative - there is none! :( Nothing that wouldn't require redesigning the whole system. I had all but given up until I stumbled upon a mint condition Hitachi evap core at U-pull one day.
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Suby Spanner
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Post by Suby Spanner » Sat Aug 26, 2017 8:54 pm

Yeah second hand seems the go for the evap unit, I do a fair bit of A/C work, and I'd really rather new, but if they aren't available......

Another question: I can't keep up with gearbox options for the brumby's. I found a 98 liberty EJ25 dual range box (same as outback?????), is that any good in a brumby?

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El_Freddo
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Post by El_Freddo » Mon Aug 28, 2017 10:28 pm

Suby Spanner wrote:Another question: I can't keep up with gearbox options for the brumby's. I found a 98 liberty EJ25 dual range box (same as outback?????), is that any good in a brumby?
Only if you're putting the EJ in with it! Or if you're going to recase it in an L series set of front cases. You'd probably have to recalibrate the speedo for the smaller brumby wheel diametre.

Mind you, anything is possible with some research and maths in the speedo/tyre size department. The rest is working out the lego side of things.

The easiest would be the tried and tested L series 5 speed swap.

Cheers

Bennie
"The lounge room is not a workshop..."
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Suby Spanner
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Post by Suby Spanner » Wed Sep 20, 2017 10:11 pm

Thanks El Freddo.

Did the l series ever come in an all wheel drive box, or was it only 2wd/4wd?

Chasing my tail with the cooling system on the bazza. First the radiator, then the thermostat, then the water pump, then a hose under the intake, then the manifold gaskets....

Errr! Two bolts were corroded solid in the manifold :(

Several hours of swearing, levering, heating, busting, drilling and tapping... then i could start to reassemble... Not the Friday night I wanted. (I'm betting the head gaskets let go rapidly once I get driving around in it)

Cleaned up my 13 inch sunraysia's, hope to paint them over the coming days. Does anyone know if they were plain white, or did they have a red or blue stripe around them also?

What could do you think I need to paint the brakes given it's a red brumby, with the factory white wheel?

Speaking of wheels, does anyone have the plastic ring to hold the wheel centre in the wheel? I'm missing one.

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El_Freddo
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Post by El_Freddo » Thu Sep 21, 2017 11:36 pm

Paint your brakes a dark grey or black ;)

Factory rims were all white, no stripes!

The L box did come out in AWD but they're hard to find and if not treated well the centre diff may be flogged out. You can build an AWD box into L casings and fit that as already mentioned - some working out of speedo etc required. Bonus there is that you'd get the factory centre LSD. While relatively weak in the grand scheme of things, it means that if you lift a wheel or unload it enough you're not going to spin it for long. The L AWD box has an open centre diff that can spin one wheel when traction is lost. The reason why the L AWD box is an advantage is in offroad applications - you can lock the centre diff just like the L PT4wd box does when engaging the rear end.

So many options, some costly, some require research all will require mods to the gearbox cross member, linkages and tail shaft.

Cheers

Bennie
"The lounge room is not a workshop..."
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Suby Spanner
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Post by Suby Spanner » Wed Sep 27, 2017 10:18 pm

Put the freshly painted, white, wheels on... Yeah, that looks better.

Picked up a better tailgate than mine at U pull it the other week end, the outter skin is beat, but the inside is far better than mine, so that'll save several hours work :)

Just gotta sort out this damn air con evapourator.

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El_Freddo
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Post by El_Freddo » Mon Oct 02, 2017 2:42 pm

Suby Spanner wrote:Put the freshly painted, white, wheels on... Yeah, that looks better.
Got pics?
Suby Spanner wrote:Just gotta sort out this damn air con evapourator.
I'm sure there was an evaporator on one of the MYs at the Lonsdale Upullit last week. With the help of Silverbullet grabbing the centre console, I've now got myself a factory electric window setup to drop in the brumby :D I'm spewing that I didn't think about a friend that needs the lid and hinge from the touring wagon centre console!

Keen for some pics ;)

Cheers

Bennie
"The lounge room is not a workshop..."
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Suby Spanner
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Post by Suby Spanner » Sat Oct 14, 2017 10:16 am

I'll try to organise some pics.

Had a go at the air con last night.

I've got two scrapper brumbies, one had air. So reluctantly grabbed the evapourator out of that... Well it was fully charged with gas! I have my own shop and air con liscense so that's all covered. So it holds pressure, bingo that was a good start.

Pulled it out, looked pretty clean. Gave it a blow out, a clean with some wheel cleaner, washed it and put it in.

I haven't been able to locate a new reciever/drier :(

Vacuumed it down: It held vacuum.

Then charged it: Oh boy, was the compressor noisy at first. Kept charging it.... it quietened right down.

Then all I had to do was renew the vacuum line to the idle up actuator, which was siezed, so I freed that up.

Set the idle speed and idle up speed.

Then I checked the cabin temp......

It runs down to 5 degrees, then cuts out, cutting back in just under 10 degrees. That's text book for me, couldn't ask any better.....

Soooooo happy.

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El_Freddo
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Post by El_Freddo » Sat Oct 14, 2017 2:38 pm

That's awesome.

I still have to fix the AC in my brumby and Sunnie the Brumby needs a re-gas. I think it's got a leaking O ring some where...

I'd also like to do my L series - it was awesome having AC in that thing! It was working really well but now is not so good in warm weather. In winter it was good for demisting purposes but that's about it. I also want to replace the compressor as mine is noisy, possibly the front bearing.

I probably won't get around to any of that on the account of $$$s involved. L series and my brumby were running HiChill. Very nice and I'm happy to run it - I've read people's theories about the dangers etc.

Thanks for the update SS!

Cheers

Bennie
"The lounge room is not a workshop..."
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Suby Spanner
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Post by Suby Spanner » Sat Oct 14, 2017 4:34 pm

The hydrocarbon gases are hugely mis-understood. Could it be there is too much money involved in importing the synthetic R134A.... Just saying....

Anyways, so most cars hold 200 or 300 grams of hydrocarbon gas...about the same as a deordorant can....and how many people have them rolling around under seats, with out a thought?

Or station wagons with a 90L tank in the rear......

So 200 gram is nothing.

And the stuff stinks! On purpose, so you can smell it.

For years they scared everyone saying it's flammable... But how many recorded fires? None.

How many R134A fires? It was 3 or 4 IIRC... But R134a isn't flammable right, so hows there a fire? Because the system is under pressure, and it's got lubricating oil in it, so when it bursts, there's a huge oil spray.... and if it's ignited...

there has since been a hydrocarbon fire in a truck, but it wasn't one fault, there were at least two. I can't remember exactly the problems, but I think they found it was over charged, the front cooling fan wasn't working (so the pressure was sky high) and I think it burst the tx valve or evaporator under the dash, and something sparked it.

I like the hydrocarbon in old systems, it runs at low pressure, is really efficient. So it doesn't stress system like R134a does. Where it does fall down, is it's a smaller molecule, so it leaks far easier than R134a, and in some cases, the rubber hoses are actually porous to it, so it's of no use in them.

Hydrocarbon gas is commonly used in commercial system, eg supermarkets and cold stores, and with power prices going the way they are, it will likely increase.

Time will tell with my brumby, but so far the a/c is looking good.

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Silverbullet
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Post by Silverbullet » Sun Oct 15, 2017 10:09 am

What did you charge your system with Spanner? Are the "dreaded" hydrocarbon mixtures still readily available?

Just interested in this stuff for when the time comes to get the A/C charged in my wagon, being an old R12(?) system but also has a sticker on it somewhere that says "converted for use with R134A" Dunno if that means anything at all or is just a misleading gimmick.
Not sure what the best way to go will be.
Will it ever end!?
-EA81 TWIN CARB!!!!
-L series 5 speed
-Custom paint job
-2" lift
-Full custom re-wire
-L series front end
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Suby Spanner
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Post by Suby Spanner » Wed Oct 18, 2017 10:52 am

I used Hydrocarbon, it was Hychill minus 30, not sure what the numbers mean, I focus on pressure and performance.

Yes, readily available, over the counter, and even in Aerosol cans for DIY.

Like I said, it runs at lower pressure and is way more efficient, only draw back is the small molecule size, so if it leaks out and you can't find a leak, it's probably the hoses are porous. In that case R134a it is, at the risk of higher pressure.

Retrofitting R12 to R134A just means changing the oil in the compressor (not everyone even did that!) and then fitting the R134A quick charge,dry break fittings to stop leaking when connecting/disconnecting. So nothing basically.

My rule is, modern cars ~2000 onwards recharge with R134a, in R12 systems, hydrocarbon, and the years between discuss with owner.

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Suby Spanner
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Post by Suby Spanner » Wed Oct 18, 2017 10:53 am

Just looked at hychill site, that lists what the numbers mean.

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Suby Spanner
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Post by Suby Spanner » Sat Feb 24, 2018 10:57 pm

OT: who was the member witch access to suby parts or worked at a suby dealer? Trying to work out what oil goes in the wifes impreza gearbox. The owner manuals got stolen (along with our binoculars), I've got a replacement set of books, but not sure if they suit our year.

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Silverbullet
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Post by Silverbullet » Wed Feb 28, 2018 7:01 pm

Suby Spanner wrote:OT: who was the member witch access to suby parts or worked at a suby dealer? Trying to work out what oil goes in the wifes impreza gearbox. The owner manuals got stolen (along with our binoculars), I've got a replacement set of books, but not sure if they suit our year.
FROG aka Andy, although I don't know if he still frequents this site :???: Might respond to a PM....
Will it ever end!?
-EA81 TWIN CARB!!!!
-L series 5 speed
-Custom paint job
-2" lift
-Full custom re-wire
-L series front end
Image

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