Love the subi's just bought another

Bryan1 · Post by **Bryan1** » Sat Dec 03, 2016 5:05 pm

Gday Guy's,
Well starting on a new job on Monday and my hilux unbrakeable broke with the centre bearing for the tailshaft giving way. Saw a FB post for a liberty which looks pretty neat so going for a look in the morning and dropping off $300 to get the rego sorted then pay $1000 on Monday night so I will have a work car for this 3 month contract. Will beat driving the ute down to town everyday too.

Pic's to come guy's and I reckon I got a bargain

Cheers Bryan

P.S. If guy's in Adelaide want this old Leonie, it does still have a good gearbox and other parts so it's up for grabs then when all done I'll get a removal mob to take the carcass away

YouTube · Post by **El_Freddo** » Sat Dec 03, 2016 9:04 pm

Sounds good mate but not for the leone!

I'm looking forward to pics

Cheers

Bennie

Bryan1 · Post by **Bryan1** » Mon Dec 05, 2016 6:02 pm

G'day Guy's,
Aint got the car home yet as still waiting for the seller to get it re-registered and should be picking it up tomorrow night.

Anyway it is a 1990 Liberty GX with 175K on the clock and a fully reconned motor fitted less than 1,000 K's ago. The car is straight with no signs of any rust and used to be the daily driver for a guy who owns a wreckers and the car was a present to his daughter who is the seller. So I reckon I'm getting a bargain and total cost with 3 months rego we agreed on $1300.

Cheers Bryan

Bryan1 · Post by **Bryan1** » Thu Dec 08, 2016 6:47 pm

G'day Guy's,
Ok finally took some pic's so here they are

[img]https://www.dropbox.com/s/8wb7l5ls22c5k ... w.jpg?dl=0[/img]

No signs of any rust but the clear coat on the paint is starting to peel in places.

[img]https://www.dropbox.com/s/qtks0utmaf9qy ... r.jpg?dl=0[/img]

The interior is in purfect nic

[img]https://www.dropbox.com/s/1gc1yg7e0huy6 ... h.jpg?dl=0[/img]

Now the fuel guage is wonky with it not staying stable and i do think it could be a ground fault on the fuel sender sensor so need to have a look. The cruise control light does come on but doesn't engage so another one to look at. Everything else works nicely and driving down to town at 5am one deosn't need the fans going as the car is heated pretty quickly and in the arvo with the aircon on 2 the car stays nice and cool.

[img]https://www.dropbox.com/s/ln9ii5jssl47i ... y.jpg?dl=0[/img]

Now the engine is fuel injected but no idea what model engine it is but when one puts the foot down it does throw one back in the seat.

Cheers Bryan

Bryan1 · Post by **Bryan1** » Sat Dec 24, 2016 5:10 pm

G'day Guy's,
Well finally got a service manual after a google search and it was on this forum albiet in seperate chapters those of us on fraudband. Anyway I've had a good read and before knowing nothing about auto gearbox's got a nice steep learning curve

Anyway reading away the fault I have with the gearbox is described in the manual where the engine revs when fast changing gears back and forth means a band brake needs tightening. Ok sounds easy never being involved with an auto box before gotta my head into this and fix it.

There was a clanging noise coming from the engine so got the 100 year old wood stove cleaned up and moved so the subi would go in my shed. Tightened up the loose bolts on the lower plate, the centre bolts which on inspection don't hold anything tight.

The cause of the clanging noise was a loose pulley off the crank so got my snap on large screw driver and found an anchor then tightened the nut using my long handle 1/2 snapon ratchet where off pressure I'm not far off torque settings when I use that ratchet.

Read on this forum also about those black and white plugs for doing a self diagnosis on faults. Well stripped about 2"'s of tape off and only found on black plug 2 wire with a cap on the end. feeling the taped bundle and probing no more connectors are there from feel either.

Now this brings me to the question as this car is 1990 vintage it is OBD1 and buying a commercial dongle won't work or is there one on the market that will read the error codes. Also with the connector used what pins are used, I I'm thinking I put my logic analyzer on the pins then read the code but this begs the question what code does subi for the OBD1. 12C, spi or modbus etc

Guy's my love of the subi came from the 2 leonies I owned and loved and pre vintage of all this fault error code stuff. Finally rang the insurance to get the 3rd party fire and theft put on and got asked how much for the theft part, Well as I only paid a grand I had ask what the market value was 4K

. But can't ever see this being stolen as when I find a good outback wagon that's the SWMBO's next car and if we can get a good tradein with this so be it. But I'd rather do the 2006 Getz for the tradein so I can keep this car as a challenge to get it purfect.

Anyway Merry Xmas guy's

Cheers Bryan

Donkeytits1 · Post by **Donkeytits1** » Sun Dec 25, 2016 9:11 am

Go here for a better manual. With the powers of Adobe Pro, all the sections are joined, bookmarked, and text recognition has been run so you can ctrl+F search.

https://1drv.ms/f/s!At6PMC5TZQaI2XdslFUpMQ6Tqery (One drive)

Bryan1 · Post by **Bryan1** » Tue Dec 27, 2016 1:09 pm

G'day Guy's,
Well finally found those plugs and got them connected then started up and checked and got
Fault Code 35 C/U Motor Faulty vacuum pump motor drive circuit

Now as the cruise control doesn't work guess I've nutted down to what to find and glad there was only one fault code up there.

Now the fun begins

Cheers Bryan

Edit: Looking thru the service manual and the main MPFI has an error code and the fault for 35 is Purge control solenoid valve Solenoid valve inoperative.

It also says Erroneous idling is the problem, now the EJ22 engine does purr away with a slight hiccup every now and then but driving around and theres no problem so that does make me wonder. Just go buy a new Solenoid valve and put it in hoping that is the problem or just keep reading

Bryan1 · Post by **Bryan1** » Tue Dec 27, 2016 4:44 pm

Well just went and measured the resistance of the purge solenoid wire and the specified resistance is 35.3 ohms. I measured .345Mohm so looks like a trip to Repco tomorrow for a new one. Next jobbie is crawling under and ajusting the band brake for a smother operation shifting gears then finally find out why the fuel gauge is dodgy.

Just gotta luv the service manual and although a pain to find those connectors the manual gave all the detail to check the part.

The main reason I luv these cars, although fully electronic still one can nut most problems easily and fix them.

Cheers Bryan

YouTube · Post by **El_Freddo** » Tue Dec 27, 2016 7:09 pm

Good job Bryan.

I too like the early stuff prior to integrated security systems and the later BUS/CAN BUS stuff or whatever it's called - the system that talks to everything in the vehicle and won't work if something is missing. I guess it's a win for aftermarket ECU companies!

If I'm thinking of the right solenoid, it's tucked under the intake manifold on the driver's side. Did the ECU throw a check engine light?

Cheers

Bennie

Donkeytits1 · Post by **Donkeytits1** » Tue Dec 27, 2016 7:15 pm

There is a seperate code for the purge solenoid. [edit: just read your edit] And I pulled one off a wreck, can't remeber if a new one was just dumb expensive, or I could't get one. If you don't care about the environment, you can just rig up a resistor to get rid of the code.

Purge solenoids go all the time

Also, I have the dash and engine out of my car. I'll check where the vacume pump is for ya

And getting the purge solenoid on and off is a c**t unless you just bite the bullet and pull the manifold off

Bryan1 · Post by **Bryan1** » Tue Dec 27, 2016 8:01 pm

G'day Guy's,
I got in contact with the buyer and the old motor is still sitting upside down beside the carport. So I'm heading around there in the morning along with a DMM and I'll rip the one off the motor. Hopefully get to see just how they do come off. It does look like a split pin spring type arrangement from what I could see looking thru the manifold.
I did also trace the cruise control vacuum pump location simply by working back off the throttle assembly. It's on the lower right hand fender back and down from the fuel filter.
While I'm on, any tips on this fuel gauge issue, when I fill it up it goes to about 3/4 and does stay there for a few days but when the tank does go down it drops to just above empty and stays there. Now I just set the trip meter and got 550K out of a tank and there was still about 12 litres in the tank when I refueled.

Cheers Bryan

YouTube · Post by **El_Freddo** » Tue Dec 27, 2016 8:58 pm

The solenoid, it's a standalone unit correct? I'm sure it is. I've hear of people leaving the dead unit in place and mounting the new one on the guard with extended wiring and vacuum line.

I've heard the fuel gauges in the Gen1 live we're dodgy. I don't know if pulling the pump and cleaning the fuel gauge unit's contact points might do the trick. Otherwise it could be something in the cluster itself.

Cheers

Bennie

Bryan1 · Post by **Bryan1** » Wed Dec 28, 2016 1:42 pm

G'day Guy's,
Anyway found a 3 watt 33ohm resistor so bent the legs to fit in the connector and it slipped in nicely so taped it up to keep it in there and more tape to seal it. Did the battery dance for 1-1/2" and undid the 2 plugs. Put the battery terminal back on and kicked her over. YAY no more 'Check Engine' so thanks Donkey for that tip mate as it seemed to work a trick.
Went and had a look at the fuel sensor and found the green wire had copper exposed, so cut it at the break removing about 1/4" where it was showing then soldered it up with some heatshrink to seal it.
Took the car for spin up the road to have a look at the carnage from last nights storm(got 67mm of rain here) and the road is basically washed out.
Anyway no change on the fuel gauge, so later I'll go full it up and do an ohm's test on the sensor connectors.

Cheers Bryan

Bryan1 · Post by **Bryan1** » Tue Jul 11, 2017 3:21 pm

G'day Guy's, Well this '90 liberty has been my daily driver for work since I got it, the fuel gauge came back to life after about 20 refills too, but got one niggling annoyance some time when I get out of the car the central locking kicks in and locks the 3 other doors. Other times it doesn't and it's got me puzzled on how to fix it. Now I don't have the keyfob just a normal key and I did try the trick shown in the manual where one inputs a code via the drivers door handle. I tried everything and didn't get anywhere so still got the problem. Once when I got out it locked all 4 doors and I had the key still in the ignition. Lucky i had a spare key to get in, but it may be a problem when I'm out and about without that spare key.

So any tips on how to fix this problem guy's.

Cheers Bryan