Urgent help required!!!

Silverbullet · Post by **Silverbullet** » Thu Sep 19, 2013 5:56 pm

Yes I still have the 5 speed, ready and waiting to go into my WAGON!

Not even considering scavenging these parts to keep the ute going. Plus I don't have the facilities to do the conversion in a reasonable time I think, don't fancy spending all weekend on a surprise conversion.

As for the price, I'll be $550 lighter when I leave the wreckers on Saturday morning

But It will be there, it will be a good box and I need my car back.

Brumby Kid · Post by **Brumby Kid** » Fri Sep 20, 2013 11:02 am

Would love to see the old gearbox oil, got plans for the old gearbox? It would be interesting to split it open and have a look.

Cheers Cam

steptoe · Post by **steptoe** » Fri Sep 20, 2013 5:21 pm

Cam came out of HSCibernation?

Brumby Kid · Post by **Brumby Kid** » Sun Sep 22, 2013 12:11 pm

steptoe wrote:Cam came out of HSCibernation?

I hope!!!
Year 11 has really taken a toll on me, too much work, not enough free time.
I need to make a new thread some time updating EVERYTHING!!!
Including that thing i went thirds in. think its called an LX Liberty, can't remember but i think among many mods it has a roll cage............

Cheers Cam

Silverbullet · Post by **Silverbullet** » Tue Aug 18, 2015 10:53 pm

Don't worry this is just me digging up an old thread, so no help required

Just thought I should mention the annual problem with my Brumbys drive shafts has just sprung up again. I dug around and found the date when I bought the two rebuilt Subaru ones (with the 6 bearing inners) June 2014, just over a year ago. Discount the month I was away would make it exactly 12 months of driving. And last week I could feel the grinding vibration through the steering wheel, knew immediately what the problem was. Went about sourcing a third shaft I could get rebuilt to have as a spare for just this occasion, was going to get that done this week and put it in coming weekend but the car had other ideas! Yesterday morning the grinding had turned into a horrific clunking sound (in a straight line) and SEVERE steering wheel shimmy at around 80 km/h. Today (this morning) the clunking was joined by the occasional BANG and jerk of the steering wheel randomly. Could feel every clunk and vibration through the steering wheel and pedals even

Managed to get to the drive shaft shop where I bought them there shafts and one of the guys took it for a spin to see what the problem was...

Came back about 20 seconds later and said "How the hell are you driving that thing!" he wasn't game to get it above 40!

The bloody thing just couldn't last 3 more days till I had a chance to fix it. So I had to leave the car there and bus it home today, they'll swap some shafts over for me tomorrow. And once again I am scratching my head as to why this keeps happening to a non-lifted, stock suspension Brum. It just chews through inner joints like nothing else

Nubaru · Post by **Nubaru** » Wed Aug 19, 2015 8:29 am

Too many burnouts or too much horsepower most likely

Hit and miss affair these after market driveshafts

Silverbullet · Post by **Silverbullet** » Wed Aug 19, 2015 4:40 pm

Not aftermarket though! They were Subaru 6 bearing ones.

I suddenly have this amazing sense of deja vu; just had a call, bad news. Front right wheel bearing is stuffed

I almost can't believe it, because exactly a year ago I went to this same CV place with drive shaft noises, for them to tell me my front right wheel bearing is stuffed!

At that time got the bearing replaced by All drive at Gepps X, and yet here I am a year later with the exact same problem.

I just don't get it, on this car drive shafts and wheel bearings are a consumable item to be replaced once a year. Only thing I can think of it was the sealed bearing kit that has gone dry inside and given up so quickly. Getting a new kit tomorrow and if it has sealed bearings I'm pulling those bloody things out and packing the grease myself!

Subydoug · Post by **Subydoug** » Wed Aug 19, 2015 8:10 pm

I doubt sealed bearings would fail like that. More likely the bearings are fine, or they are stuffed because the driveshaft nut was not tightened up properly. You must at minimum give the cone washers a quick once over on a belt sander or similar so there are no burrs. I prefer to over tighten the nut, crack it lose and re torque it.

As far as inner CV going bad, make sure all your engine mounts and gearbox mounts are ok.

Doug

Silverbullet · Post by **Silverbullet** » Wed Aug 19, 2015 9:00 pm

I make sure to use good cone washers too, and I tighten the nut by jumping on my 3ft breaker bar. I had the car up on stands on the weekend, checked that wheel and there was no bearing noise, no play up and down or side to side. The axle nut wasn't loose either. Engine and gearbox mounts I have replaced myself over the last 2 years. I'm planning on putting in the power steering kit I bought off Phizinza in the coming weeks, then I will get a full 4 wheel laser alignment and check over. I think my manual rack must be worn or maybe the rack ends because the steering wheel has shimmied side to side at about 80 km/h ever since I bought this car. Wheel balance doesn't come into it either I've had 3 different sets of wheels on this car, didn't change a thing!

It's a job for this weekend now, so we'll see what I find when I pull it all apart.

Silverbullet · Post by **Silverbullet** » Thu Aug 20, 2015 6:23 pm

Limped it home today, and this is the noise it is making! Video doesn't do it justice, it is A LOT louder. The higher pitched crackling is the insides of the steering wheel vibrating.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2ui2cRFRJ3c

tony · Post by **tony** » Thu Aug 20, 2015 11:13 pm

seeing as the steering has been vibrating since you have had the car I would suggest this has caused severe wear in the whole front steering and bearings etc, so the whole lot would now need replacement.
just standing on a breaker bar will not tighten the axle nut sufficiently, I use about a 4foot length of 50mm water pipe and am not sure that is enough. I suggest you borrow a large torque wrench an do the job properly, I think it is supposed to be done to about 220 ft lbs. the shop manual has the details.
When undoing the nut I had to put a car jack under the breaker bar and jack the car up on it, and it nearly lifted the car up!

Phizinza · Post by **Phizinza** » Fri Aug 21, 2015 8:12 am

Do you think the right front beating wearing out prematurely could be a machining fault in the knuckle, like perhaps it's machined so the bearings aren't perfectly pallarell to each other?

I've heard you can put EA82 DOJ cups on EA81 shafts, those are a bit longer, to help slow the opening up of the cup which causes the loose joint to click.

steptoe · Post by **steptoe** » Fri Aug 21, 2015 8:17 am

trust me, sounds bad

you mean no noise before and suddenly you got all that ?

Sensible is to get in there and pull it apart to make proper diagnosis.Sounds like one bad axle shaft assembly for starters. Just ordered a pair of CSA110's from REPCo includes 5 year , 100,000km warranty .....now gotta chase up exchange calipers, or get mine done, or do a small kit through them myself....

Silverbullet · Post by **Silverbullet** » Fri Aug 21, 2015 5:50 pm

Phizinza wrote:Do you think the right front beating wearing out prematurely could be a machining fault in the knuckle, like perhaps it's machined so the bearings aren't perfectly pallarell to each other?

I've heard you can put EA82 DOJ cups on EA81 shafts, those are a bit longer, to help slow the opening up of the cup which causes the loose joint to click.

I hadn't thought of this one, I guess it is a possibility. Although one would hope they would have had some sort of quality control back in the factory to pick that kind of thing up. But then, it was the 1980's and these weren't expensive cars. I think I actually have another bearing hub with new bearings installed for that side, sitting in the shed un-used from when I went to L series stuff on the blue wagon, that might rule out the dud-machine job theory. Good to know about the EA82 DOJ's, I wonder though if it would then hit the steering shaft on that side. Probably not with the P/S uni joint in there.

Jonno, there had been a very feint vibration I could feel through the steering wheel for about a week and a half, felt like a grinding sort of thing happening once per rev of the wheel. Left hand shaft had been clicking on full lock for a while with disintegrated inner boot. I jacked it up last weekend and there was no play in the wheel up down or side to side, so I thought it wasn't the bearing. Then next day on the way to work it sounded like in that video! One of the guys in the shop I took it to said my steering rack ends are also really worn, could be related. Think I'd better hurry up with the P/S conversion!

Phizinza · Post by **Phizinza** » Fri Aug 21, 2015 9:45 pm

The DOJ's are only 5mm longer or so, wouldn't get close.

Silverbullet · Post by **Silverbullet** » Sat Aug 22, 2015 2:06 pm

tony wrote:seeing as the steering has been vibrating since you have had the car I would suggest this has caused severe wear in the whole front steering and bearings etc, so the whole lot would now need replacement.
just standing on a breaker bar will not tighten the axle nut sufficiently, I use about a 4foot length of 50mm water pipe and am not sure that is enough. I suggest you borrow a large torque wrench an do the job properly, I think it is supposed to be done to about 220 ft lbs. the shop manual has the details.
When undoing the nut I had to put a car jack under the breaker bar and jack the car up on it, and it nearly lifted the car up!

Tony, there is such a thing as too tight! See below...a picture of a stripped wheel nut.

I got to the point where I usually stop and put the split pin in, then with your words in mind tried to go to the next slot on the nut. About halfway there it suddenly went loose. Thanking my lucky stars it was the nut and not the shaft. I've had my axle nuts front and rear off and on multiple times over the years, the only time one went loose was on the rear because the cone washer was flogged, and that nut I hadn't touched, legacy from a previous life.

I worked out where the noise was coming from, full write up in the general section.

Subyroo · Post by **Subyroo** » Sun Aug 23, 2015 10:22 am

Silverbullet wrote:I worked out where the noise was coming from, full write up in the general section.

showthread.php?t=25973

YouTube · Post by **El_Freddo** » Fri Aug 28, 2015 8:46 pm

Steptoe, DIY the calipers with a kit from Frog. I did mine in a camp ground before we went 4wd'n a few years ago!

Cheers

Bennie

steptoe · Post by **steptoe** » Fri Aug 28, 2015 10:19 pm

ta, worked out the handbrake bit for one man operation and the handbrake side of kit is coming exNippon ~ 80 bucks for a kit to do two calipers - the big boots, spring washers and o ring inside on the screw bolt.

, got some caliper kits from rock for piston side. Curious to know what grease you used as there is a few different greases or lubes for different points about the caliper

YouTube · Post by **El_Freddo** » Sat Aug 29, 2015 8:05 am

Can't remember the grease. I think I lubed the square edged O rings as per the Haynes manual.

I only did the piston's seals and the dust boot in that same area. I had one with a torn dust boot for some time and thus it wasn't working as it should've! That was very apparent as I came off Hotham down the Dargo Rd - there's an exceptionally steep and long downhill section a few k's before Dargo. It really started pulling one way at that point.

Cheers

Bennie