What did you do to improve your soobie today

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taza
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Post by taza » Sun Apr 15, 2012 3:22 pm

2nd Hand Yank wrote:try to figure out what caused my engine failure.

I was driving along as normal when the engine suddenly felt like it had a stumbling load, akin to the A/C compressor only much heavier, for a few seconds before the motor shut itself off and the engine oil light came on. Confused, I pulled over to check the oil. The oil level was fine. I now can't restart the car. The motor will turn over, but will not fire. "Matt" happened to be nearby so after waiting a few minutes, him and another mechanic bloke had a look to see what's wrong. I'd already checked that all my leads were connected, noticed some loose wires and pushed them back on snug. Nothing. Matt reckons there was no spark coming out of the ignition coil, using an allen key to extend the ignition lead, testing for a spark on my radiator cap, then on himself to see if he gets a bit of a zap. :p No, nothing. I figured something failed all of a sudden, either fuel or ignition, since it didn't run rough for long, rather just stopped.

Will keep you all updated.

I'm going to buy a new coil and fuel filter. We looked at the fuel filter and it looked pretty buggered, but that's probably not why my car stopped. Regardless, I've never changed it so it's probably due for one. (I bought the car at 305k and now I'm at 328k ;))
2nd Hand Yank wrote:Interesting.

I changed the coil and while it seemed to turn the motor over harder at first, pretty soon that starter sound turned into a fast chatter sound and I noticed that the motor is not turning over as fast as it should.

Have I killed my starting motor?

I will try checking the dizzy now...
That really sucks mate. If its major maybe you should get the EH conversion happening sooner!

Good luck with it.

Taza

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2nd Hand Yank
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Post by 2nd Hand Yank » Sun Apr 15, 2012 3:50 pm

^^^ that was the sound of a flattening battery.

i took the distributor off and noticed that while cranking the starter motor, the distibutor button does not spin... :cry:

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Gannon
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Post by Gannon » Sun Apr 15, 2012 5:59 pm

2nd Hand Yank wrote:
i took the distributor off and noticed that while cranking the starter motor, the distibutor button does not spin... :cry:

Sounds like you have a broken timing belt.
Current rides: 2016 Mitsubishi Triton GLS & 2004 Forester X
Ongoing Project/Toy: 1987 RX Turbo EA82T, Speeduino ECU, Coil-pack ignition, 440cc Injectors, KONI adjustale front struts, Hybrid L Series/ Liberty AWD 5sp
Past rides: 92 L series turbo converted wagon, 83 Leone GL Sedan, 2004 Liberty GT Sedan & 2001 Outback
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B00sting
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Post by B00sting » Sun Apr 15, 2012 6:46 pm

vortex gearbox out completely, roof cut off! other random bits removed.
Brumby 1992: EA81, 15" peugot steelies, 2" ********* body lift, tonneau cover, bullbar, GME UHF, ARB compressor, ********* rear diff protector, SOLD

-97 Landcruiser :D

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2nd Hand Yank
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Post by 2nd Hand Yank » Sun Apr 15, 2012 6:52 pm

Gannon wrote:Sounds like you have a broken timing belt.
Probably... Now the "fun" part. :rolleyes:

I think I want to get it running soon
because not having my L Series running is a bit annoying.
I don't need it to get to work anymore,
but I wanted it for fun trips on the weekends
and random errands around town.

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sven '2'
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Post by sven '2' » Sun Apr 15, 2012 7:06 pm

taza wrote:That really sucks mate. If its major maybe you should get the EH conversion happening sooner!Taza
A Red 179!! Like to see that!
73 Yamaha DT3 250

08 Ford BF wagon - LPG FTMFW

14 Toyota Kluger - goodness!

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2nd Hand Yank
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Post by 2nd Hand Yank » Sun Apr 15, 2012 7:37 pm

Do I need to remove the engine to inspect and replace timing components? :confused:
Gregorys seems to recommend that.

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TOONGA
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Post by TOONGA » Sun Apr 15, 2012 9:11 pm

gregorys wants you to disconnect the battery to replace the cigarette lighter.

but yes it is easier to do the timing belts while the engine is out.

your other option is the EJ option or the red motor option :)

even a gemini diesel if you want

TOONGA
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purp
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Post by purp » Sun Apr 15, 2012 9:15 pm

I did the timing belts with the motor in, and would recommend removing it (I'd f you have access to engine stands and the like.

Gemini diesel in a L series? :rolleyes:

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2nd Hand Yank
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Post by 2nd Hand Yank » Sun Apr 15, 2012 10:50 pm

TOONGA wrote:gregorys wants you to disconnect the battery to replace the cigarette lighter.

but yes it is easier to do the timing belts while the engine is out.

your other option is the EJ option or the red motor option :)

even a gemini diesel if you want

TOONGA
Red motor option? What's that?

Macca's wagon?
If I paint it red and yellow, the motor will start again?
Maybe if I wear big red shoes too it will start? :D

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2nd Hand Yank
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Post by 2nd Hand Yank » Sun Apr 15, 2012 10:52 pm

Are you all sure that it's a timing belt problem?

I'm wondering if it's something wrong with my distributor.
I'd like to see my engine running before April 27th, if at all possible.

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sven '2'
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Post by sven '2' » Mon Apr 16, 2012 12:15 am

2nd Hand Yank wrote:Are you all sure that it's a timing belt problem?

I'm wondering if it's something wrong with my distributor.
I'd like to see my engine running before April 27th, if at all possible.
It will be the timing belt - time to start a thread in 'Engine, gearbox & diff'
73 Yamaha DT3 250

08 Ford BF wagon - LPG FTMFW

14 Toyota Kluger - goodness!

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Gannon
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Post by Gannon » Mon Apr 16, 2012 6:03 am

Changing the timing belt is easy. Have you got yourself a Haynes or Gregories manual?
Current rides: 2016 Mitsubishi Triton GLS & 2004 Forester X
Ongoing Project/Toy: 1987 RX Turbo EA82T, Speeduino ECU, Coil-pack ignition, 440cc Injectors, KONI adjustale front struts, Hybrid L Series/ Liberty AWD 5sp
Past rides: 92 L series turbo converted wagon, 83 Leone GL Sedan, 2004 Liberty GT Sedan & 2001 Outback
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El_Freddo
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Post by El_Freddo » Mon Apr 16, 2012 12:06 pm

2nd Hand Yank wrote:Are you all sure that it's a timing belt problem?
Yep. when you try to start the engine it sounds odd and unbalanced as it goes through the motions right?
2nd Hand Yank wrote:I'm wondering if it's something wrong with my distributor.
There is. The cam belt that drives the cam and the dizzy is broken.
2nd Hand Yank wrote:I'd like to see my engine running before April 27th, if at all possible.
Yeah mate easy "az"! Cam belt kit, check out rock auto . com (I'm a bit of a dayco fan myself) for a complete kit at a bargain price. Remove the AC and alternator assembly - no need to pull them off individually, you should be able to work out the bracket that takes the two off together, place this in the battery tray.

So in order:

1) Remove battery
2) Remove thermo fan(s)
3) remove fan belts
4) Remove the AC and alternator assembly into battery tray (out of the way without splitting the AC system - saves $$$)
5) Remove mechanical fan if you've got one
6) remove the crank pulley - 22mm bolt
7) remove the cam covers starting from the left and right of the engine - you need these removed before you can remove the centre piece
8.) clean up the mess of the old belt
9) remove the other belt

Now is also a good time to replace the water pump. If you're going to do this I'd add remove radiator to number 2. The bonus here is you get a pot load of space to work in and you don't have a chance of damaging your radiator if you put it in a safe place.

Follow the instructions on the cam belt replacement making sure that after the 1st belt (passenger's side) is installed that you rotate the crank ONE ROTATION lining up the marks again. Make sure you get the timing right - one tooth out and it'll run like a dog.

Installation is the reverse of the above from #7 ;)

A couple of other tips:

- the cam cover's retaining bolts will most likely crack the casing and spin. Use a screw driver to lever them (between the cam covers) out as you turn the bolt - hold the covers on with cable ties, works a treat and it's simple, effective and cheap!
- be careful replacing the cam tensioner bolts, they can be easy to cross thread and are a PITA to replace the thread. We converted our last ones to studs for the this reason
- Get a Cam belt KIT and replace all the tensioners and the idler.
- if your oil pump is leaking it's a good time to fix it, if not LEAVE IT ALONE!
- replace the crank and cam oil seals while you're at it ;)

You can remove the engine if you want to make it easier to access and it could be a good idea for your first time. If you do remove the engine it's a good time to replace the clutch if you need to and if you're doing this replace the rear main seal :mrgreen:

I think that's about it. No if's no buts. The work needs to be done and investigating the issue with the dizzy is only wasting time!

Cheers

Bennie
"The lounge room is not a workshop..."
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Cliff R
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Post by Cliff R » Mon Apr 16, 2012 12:41 pm

Finally finished swapping out the original L series AM/FM radio with a new stereo
Sorry about the crap photo on the original unit.
Image

And the new one

Image

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thunder039
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Post by thunder039 » Mon Apr 16, 2012 6:11 pm

purchased some thule roof racks today for the roof top tent. cost $233 for the aero bars and fot pack. good price i thought.
also purchased some snow chains looking forward to the snow season :mrgreen:
2004 subaru forester -gone
1999 subaru forester- no more :(
1989 subaru brumby- sold!
2008 zook jimny -sold!
2003 mitsubishi pajero - missus car
2013 nissan d22- set up for long distant touring

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2nd Hand Yank
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Post by 2nd Hand Yank » Mon Apr 16, 2012 7:45 pm

El_Freddo wrote:Yep. when you try to start the engine it sounds odd and unbalanced as it goes through the motions right?



There is. The cam belt that drives the cam and the dizzy is broken.



Yeah mate easy "az"! Cam belt kit, check out rock auto . com (I'm a bit of a dayco fan myself) for a complete kit at a bargain price. Remove the AC and alternator assembly - no need to pull them off individually, you should be able to work out the bracket that takes the two off together, place this in the battery tray.

So in order:

1) Remove battery
2) Remove thermo fan(s)
3) remove fan belts
4) Remove the AC and alternator assembly into battery tray (out of the way without splitting the AC system - saves $$$)
5) Remove mechanical fan if you've got one
6) remove the crank pulley - 22mm bolt
7) remove the cam covers starting from the left and right of the engine - you need these removed before you can remove the centre piece
8.) clean up the mess of the old belt
9) remove the other belt

Now is also a good time to replace the water pump. If you're going to do this I'd add remove radiator to number 2. The bonus here is you get a pot load of space to work in and you don't have a chance of damaging your radiator if you put it in a safe place.

Follow the instructions on the cam belt replacement making sure that after the 1st belt (passenger's side) is installed that you rotate the crank ONE ROTATION lining up the marks again. Make sure you get the timing right - one tooth out and it'll run like a dog.

Installation is the reverse of the above from #7 ;)

A couple of other tips:

- the cam cover's retaining bolts will most likely crack the casing and spin. Use a screw driver to lever them (between the cam covers) out as you turn the bolt - hold the covers on with cable ties, works a treat and it's simple, effective and cheap!
- be careful replacing the cam tensioner bolts, they can be easy to cross thread and are a PITA to replace the thread. We converted our last ones to studs for the this reason
- Get a Cam belt KIT and replace all the tensioners and the idler.
- if your oil pump is leaking it's a good time to fix it, if not LEAVE IT ALONE!
- replace the crank and cam oil seals while you're at it ;)

You can remove the engine if you want to make it easier to access and it could be a good idea for your first time. If you do remove the engine it's a good time to replace the clutch if you need to and if you're doing this replace the rear main seal :mrgreen:

I think that's about it. No if's no buts. The work needs to be done and investigating the issue with the dizzy is only wasting time!

Cheers

Bennie
thanks :)

I'm not sure I want to do all that to my EA82. :think:
I'm happy not driving my car for a few months and just start an EJ swap...
except that my parents will be visiting us in 10 days, staying a few weeks
and we said they could use our cars. :smack:

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taza
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Post by taza » Mon Apr 16, 2012 8:04 pm

2nd Hand Yank wrote:thanks :)

I'm not sure I want to do all that to my EA82. :think:
I'm happy not driving my car for a few months and just start an EJ swap...
except that my parents will be visiting us in 10 days, staying a few weeks
and we said they could use our cars. :smack:
That leaves you 9 days to get the EJ in then :mrgreen:

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El_Freddo
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Post by El_Freddo » Mon Apr 16, 2012 8:57 pm

2nd Hand Yank wrote:I'm not sure I want to do all that to my EA82.
Well then just do the cam kit and you'll keep rolling while you're working on the EJ stuff behind the scenes. You'll be surprised how long a conversion can take to do, especially if you're going to do it on your learning curve along the way...

Ruby Scoo today got her RH tail light installed, the exhaust fitted and the front right inner guard fitted. By this time it was late in the day and I couldn't be bothered fitting the guard, so that'll be another day.

At this rate next week will be the latest that I'll have her running :twisted: I won't know what to do first (other than get some armour-all and give her a good wash!)

Cheers

Bennie
"The lounge room is not a workshop..."
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El Freddo's Pics - El_Freddo's youtube

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2nd Hand Yank
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Post by 2nd Hand Yank » Mon Apr 16, 2012 9:55 pm

taza wrote:That leaves you 9 days to get the EJ in then :mrgreen:
Extreme Make-Over, Subaru Edition? :cool:

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