1990 liberty

woody.t · Post by **woody.t** » Sun Oct 16, 2011 8:06 pm

so i picked myself up a leone with an rs jdm engine in it off another member on here today.. plan is to chuck the engine into my liberty and either put the 2.2 from my liberty into the leone as everything except wiring is there for the conversion or too wreck the old girl, its in pretty good condition so id like to put in the 2.2 but im not sure funds will support two conversions, although i think she'd go really well as an out and out offroader and the exhaust also has a built in anti-lag system consisting of a spark plug drilled into the exhaust and coil pack in the boot..

woody.t · Post by **woody.t** » Sun Oct 23, 2011 7:11 pm

got the rs engine out and just needing to sort out a few things before she goes in, first of which is needing to find a hydraulic clutch set-up to put into the liberty and i need to make a decision on gearbox.. i'd like to run a dual range and can maybe get a mates uncle to rebuild the box and install an l-series low range into it and maybe some sort of front LSD depending on funds ut i'm worried about the box holding up to the punishment of the ej20g.. anyone ran a dual range in this set-up?

guyph_01 · Post by **guyph_01** » Sun Oct 23, 2011 7:32 pm

Plenty of people have run DR boxes. the weakest link is the clutch. Than again if you get a too strong clutch you will have more chances to break the gearbox.

I have a Hydrolic clutch master cyl with pedal and slave cyl if your interested:)

woody.t · Post by **woody.t** » Wed Nov 16, 2011 12:22 am

i'm starting to get stuff together and will basically pull my engine out the day after i finish exams which is next week.. i'm going to eventually put a close ratio ra box with a dccd in when comes up in my price range and in good nick but in the mean time i'm going to put the engine in behind the standard dual range and just a heavy duty cable clutch until i get my hands on the new box.. how much slip would be expected with just the standard 2.2 hd clutch set-up behind the ej20g.. and what would be the best option for radiator? will a rs/wrx rad fit straight in or will it be a case of a custom as i don't really want to hack the rad support as i've seen first hand how it turns out ahah.

niterida · Post by **niterida** » Wed Nov 16, 2011 1:05 am

woody.t wrote:i'm going to eventually put a close ratio ra box with a dccd in when comes up in my price range

You mean when I decide to sell you mine ??

guyph_01 · Post by **guyph_01** » Wed Nov 16, 2011 1:41 am

I think if your std Lib radiator is in good cond you can use it as most people have done. They have put a bango bolt through the bleeder to plumb back the hoses to the tank on the manifold. Your system will have two radiator caps:p
not sure if you can use the lib overflow bottle or if you have to use the in guard RS one.
p.s i've got a rs in guard overflow bottle if anyone needs one:)

d_generate · Post by **d_generate** » Wed Nov 16, 2011 2:53 am

I'm running the standard Liberty radiator in my STI set up in my Gen 2 Lib and it's never gone over half even when I've had it on the beach or in the dunes, and the dual range is coping pretty well in the WRX so far, gotta remember they take a hiding off a 2.5 and rarely break so provided you don't go stupid in first gear it should last, the rest of the gears are the same size as a WRX or any other Subi.

woody.t · Post by **woody.t** » Tue Nov 22, 2011 9:17 pm

ok so the arrival of the clutch today means i've got everything i need to do the conversion bar the map sensor and boost solenoid but i'll find them soon enough, i have my last exam on thursday morning so i'd say i'll be starting to strip her down after that and get things underway only thing that'll stop it getting done relatively quickly is that im unsure as to when subarino will be able to do the wiring but other then that it's pretty exciting

woody.t · Post by **woody.t** » Sun Nov 27, 2011 7:52 pm

got stuck into things today got it all pretty much in place bar the radiator as i couldnt get it to sit down on her engine mounts properly and gave up for the evening but heres what the engine bay now looks like.. did a quick compression test which read 150psi which was good.. but the wiring looks likes its going to be fun to separate what i need from the old loom from the un-needed stuff..

i still need to pull some of the gas system out.. does anyone on here do or know of someone who removes the tanks quite cheaply

d_generate · Post by **d_generate** » Mon Nov 28, 2011 1:42 am

Turn the tap off, take the hoses going to the tank off, undo the bolts and take it out yourself, I've taken out and fitted a couple in the past without a problem, once the tap is closed nothing can happen.

YouTube · Post by **El_Freddo** » Mon Nov 28, 2011 12:24 pm

d_generate wrote:Turn the tap off, take the hoses going to the tank off, undo the bolts and take it out yourself, I've taken out and fitted a couple in the past without a problem, once the tap is closed nothing can happen.

My thoughts exactly! I've removed a couple and I've even heard of an old school mate installing his own gas systems sucessfully...

Cheers

Bennie

d_generate · Post by **d_generate** » Mon Nov 28, 2011 4:36 pm

I fitted two tanks to my Cruiser at different times, I just had them checked and stamped by a qualified fitter and I aint no genius when it comes to gas but it's pretty straight forward.

woody.t · Post by **woody.t** » Tue Nov 29, 2011 5:14 pm

so i pulled the gas system out and everything is pretty much done and i just need to wait until i can get dave to do the wiring

woody.t · Post by **woody.t** » Sun Jan 15, 2012 10:52 pm

big thanks to dave shes all running now with a few bugs to sort out, the temperature sender seems to be shot and there is no way im changing it looking at its position so have ordered a after market one off ebay and a power steering leak leak which ill sort out in the morning but my biggest problem is still with boost, i'm still only getting about 5 pounds which i assume is waste pressure.. i had it in the car the engine was previous in but i thought i would have sorted it out with the re-installation of the factor boost solenoid etc which was missing but seems not... ive done my best to make sure there's no leaks and everything is connected up right but as its happened in both cars id assume there is an underlying issue..anyone got any suggestions as to what would cause it?

YouTube · Post by **El_Freddo** » Sun Jan 15, 2012 11:18 pm

woody.t wrote:id assume there is an underlying issue..anyone got any suggestions as to what would cause it?

Have you inspected the turbo? There could be cracks around the waste gate, this will lead to bleed air that will be taking away from your exhaust gases to spin the turbine and thus you lose out on some boost.

That's all I've got on this one. I don't really know a lot about turbos, I still glaze over when Gee starts talking about duty cycles etc when tuning. It's still interesting though.

Cheers

Bennie

RSR 555 · Post by **RSR 555** » Sun Jan 15, 2012 11:22 pm

How did you connect it all up? was it following the workshop manual or someones else's car?

I've also had issues with boost and after lots of hair pulling, I found that it was missing a small little olive fitting in the waste gate to boost controller valve

woody.t · Post by **woody.t** » Mon Jan 16, 2012 2:21 am

i've not got a restrictor pill, i was under the impression not having it would cause excess boost and boost cut but im hopefully getting one tomorrow in any event .... the turbo is fine i did have a decent look at it but i think the waste gate may not be functioning properly so i'll take it to a mechanic friend to confirm

guyph_01 · Post by **guyph_01** » Mon Jan 16, 2012 9:44 am

Those little restrictors are $4 from Subaru. I had to buy one for FalseRS.

woody.t · Post by **woody.t** » Tue Jan 17, 2012 1:57 am

playing around with her today i disconnected the waste gate actuator vacuum line and she boost up to about 14psi before i took the foot off ... so cactus boost controller? should i just by-pass it with a manual bleed valve?

Post by **Alex** » Tue Jan 17, 2012 9:27 am

woody.t wrote:playing around with her today i disconnected the waste gate actuator vacuum line and she boost up to about 14psi before i took the foot off ... so cactus boost controller? should i just by-pass it with a manual bleed valve?

yes.

the guys that bought it after me may have stuffed something. I was running a manual bleed valve at 16-18psi just before she hits boost cut.

alex