Gearbox/ Diff Oil, "98 Forester

[NachaLuva]

Does anyone know what gearbox oil I should use in my '98 Forester 5spd DR?

Since I got it about 6mths ago I have had big problems with it crunching gears & when its cold sometimes it refuses to go into 2nd. Even when hot it wont go into 1st unless completely stationary.

The oil is at the right level & clear (slightly yellow but clear, if you know what I mean).

I know there's all sorts of tricks you can do to help the synchro, like additives, better oil, etc. Someone somewhere mentioned red stuff...

What can I do to get the synchro working properly?

Also I will put in a diff breather sometime, & I'll do the diff oil at the same time. What should I use for that?

[taza]

I use Castrol Multitrax 90w90 I think it is. Seemed to shift better after putting it in. I almost never have crunching except for my 1st gear which is pretty stuffed (teeth chipped). I can't go into 1st unless comepletely stopped also.

Redline lightweight gear oil is really good also but very expensive (something llike $200 for 5l here where I live). I haven't used it but will probably put it in when I do my g/b oil next.

[steptoe]

someone said smurf blood.....

[NachaLuva]

Thanks Taza. $200 for the redline is waaay beyond my budget

Has anyone heard of putting a little Auto fluid in the oil? Apparently it has better shock resistance but I dont want to experiment with Ozzie's box lol

Steptoe, have heard smurf blood is as rare as hen's teeth

[steptoe]

OK, thinking back to AU Falcon manual boxes. Fords supplier BTR Nylex specified an additive each time box oil replaced. Car goes in for routine service including oil change for box, goes to crap. Lots of research leading back to BTR finds said info, turns out dealer does not even stock the additive (so must have beena lot of cranky manual box drivers out there) customer had to teach the service advisor a thing or two (again) , get 'em to order it in and add it - fixed.

Wonder if this is same case - an add pack not used last change?

Guess why you are doin' research now .....

[taza]

Thanks Taza. $200 for the redline is waaay beyond my budget

Has anyone heard of putting a little Auto fluid in the oil? Apparently it has better shock resistance but I dont want to experiment with Ozzie's box lol

Steptoe, have heard smurf blood is as rare as hen's teeth

Rally uses Multitrax in his foz also I think. Im happy with it but you could always add a additive ontop if you want. I use a oil additive for my engine oil to try and help with the burning (500ml every 500km) but it doesn't make much difference if any. I think the Multitrax is about $60

[TOONGA]

a small amount of transmission fluid won't hurt the box but there are better additives out there.

I use ICT M-10 friction modifier, it is made by Industrial chemical Technologies In Australia ( Morley WA) 1 litre cost 33 dollars when I last bought it.

http://ictproducts.net/product_informat ... ifier.html

It works great.

TOONGA

[NachaLuva]

Rally uses Multitrax in his foz also I think. Im happy with it but you could always add a additive ontop if you want. I use a oil additive for my engine oil to try and help with the burning (500ml every 500km) but it doesn't make much difference if any. I think the Multitrax is about $60

Seems like Multitrax is the way to go.

a small amount of transmission fluid won't hurt the box but there are better additives out there.

I use ICT M-10 friction modifier, it is made by Industrial chemical Technologies In Australia ( Morley WA) 1 litre cost 33 dollars when I last bought it.

http://ictproducts.net/product_informat ... ifier.html

It works great.

TOONGA

Their website says not to use in LSDs. The Foz has a vLSD centre diff. I'll try giving em a call tomorow.

Its pretty expensive but if it works I'll be happy

[RSR 555]

For standard (non turbo) boxes I use Castrol VMX.. this is a thinner oil designed for hard to shift boxes. I would however recommend it changed at 1/2 the normal service intervals.

Redline Lightweight Shockproof (or I like to call Smurf Blood because it goes an awesome blue colour when agitated) is primarily used in turbo boxes because of extra stress loads.

[NachaLuva]

someone said smurf blood.....

For standard (non turbo) boxes I use Castrol VMX.. this is a thinner oil designed for hard to shift boxes. I would however recommend it changed at 1/2 the normal service intervals.

Redline Lightweight Shockproof (or I like to call Smurf Blood because it goes an awesome blue colour when agitated) is primarily used in turbo boxes because of extra stress loads.

Oh, now I get it lol

The Castrol VMX sounds good if it is for "hard to shift boxes". How long is the service interval?
How can you tell if it needs changing...colour? smell? Please don't say taste! haha

[RSR 555]

Oh, now I get it lol

The Castrol VMX sounds good if it is for "hard to shift boxes". How long is the service interval?
How can you tell if it needs changing...colour? smell? Please don't say taste! haha

I've used VMX many of times on AWD boxes and it works really well. I will also be using it on my hybrid box. Normal service intervals in the Subaru book are every 100,000kms (Interval 4) but I prefer to do them every 50,000kms. It doesn't say on the VMX bottle that it suits "hard to shift boxes" but I find it does help immensley.

Taste test is the way us John Wayne mechanics do it but for those that aren't so tuff.. smell and feel is the go. But you will need to know what you're looking for. Also when you drain it, you're checking for metal bits.

[El_Freddo]

I have had big problems with it crunching gears & when its cold sometimes it refuses to go into 2nd. Even when hot it wont go into 1st unless completely stationary.

This is a typical subaru gearbox trait. Ruby Scoo does it and so does my mate's liberty.

1st I think had been designed to be difficult to engage when the car is still moving, to get around this double the clutch with a bump on the throttle to rev match - it's how I get around this one.

As for the cold second gearchange two things I've tried: one is to put in neutral with the clutch pedal out for 10 to 15 seconds before you head off, the longer you can do this the better. The other way to get around it is to drive in a way that you skip second gear - but without flogging the cold engine.

my 1st gear which is pretty stuffed (teeth chipped).

If you really do have chipped teeth it will sound like a very "organised" CV click - it will increase and decrease with the engine revs and vehicle speed, but ONLY in the gear with the chipped tooth - it is very audible. It will lead to the destruction of that gear and possibly the gearbox.

If it crunches when you try to put it in that gear you have a synchro that's dying or is dead. Forcing it won't help, rev match-double clutching might help though.

Nachaluva, as for the oil, I'm using an LSD oil from my local parts joint, I can't remember the brand or any of that. The reason I've gone with this oil is because after a discussion with the fellas they recommended the oil due to the high temp stress that can be induced while 4wd'n. I've found shifting to be easier in general.

Cheers

Bennie

[NachaLuva]

I've used VMX many of times on AWD boxes and it works really well. I will also be using it on my hybrid box. Normal service intervals in the Subaru book are every 100,000kms (Interval 4) but I prefer to do them every 50,000kms. It doesn't say on the VMX bottle that it suits "hard to shift boxes" but I find it does help immensley.

Taste test is the way us John Wayne mechanics do it but for those that aren't so tuff.. smell and feel is the go. But you will need to know what you're looking for. Also when you drain it, you're checking for metal bits.

50,000kms isnt bad.

How did I know you were gonna say taste haha
Yep I will look for metal bits. I'm sure there will be some as I've ground the gears a few times

This is a typical subaru gearbox trait. Ruby Scoo does it and so does my mate's liberty.

1st I think had been designed to be difficult to engage when the car is still moving, to get around this double the clutch with a bump on the throttle to rev match - it's how I get around this one.

As for the cold second gearchange two things I've tried: one is to put in neutral with the clutch pedal out for 10 to 15 seconds before you head off, the longer you can do this the better. The other way to get around it is to drive in a way that you skip second gear - but without flogging the cold engine.

If it crunches when you try to put it in that gear you have a synchro that's dying or is dead. Forcing it won't help, rev match-double clutching might help though.

Nachaluva, as for the oil, I'm using an LSD oil from my local parts joint, I can't remember the brand or any of that. The reason I've gone with this oil is because after a discussion with the fellas they recommended the oil due to the high temp stress that can be induced while 4wd'n. I've found shifting to be easier in general.

Cheers

Bennie

Yep, I blip the throttle now before changing down into 1st or 2nd.

I dont really wanna have a car where I have to skip a gear lol. I've never owned a car like that & I dont want to start now. I'd prefer to fix it.

Any chance you can find the brand of the oil you use?

[NachaLuva]

After much discussion & research, I've settled on Penrite SIN GEAR 75

Its fully synthetic, 75W90 API GL5/6. A little expensive, 2x 2.5L containers cost $110, but I wont have to do it again for a while & it should help my gear changes

Now I just have to wait for some nice weather to get under the car lol

[taza]

After much discussion & research, I've settled on Penrite SIN GEAR 75

Its fully synthetic, 75W90 API GL5/6. A little expensive, 2x 2.5L containers cost $110, but I wont have to do it again for a while & it should help my gear changes

Now I just have to wait for some nice weather to get under the car lol

Hope it helps mate, mines heaps nicer to drive with the stuff in

[NachaLuva]

So today I did my 1st gearbox oil change

Took a bit of effort to get the nut off, magnet had some filings but I dont think too bad (comments?):


Then cleaned. Note the magnet in the middle (very nice touch Mr.Fuji):



I had just put through 2 cans of SUEC so the air filter assembly was already off giving me easy access to the filler/dipstick. I put in about 4L., reassembled everything & went for a spin around the block.

There is some improvement but not as much as I had been hoping for. I'll know more when I have a decent drive, esp when its cold.

[NachaLuva]

I can now report it has made a difference

Did some nice tracks yesterday. As usual with my asthmatic EJ20J Foz, I need to be in exactly the right gear or she runs out of puff, which means downchanging into 1st on the move.

before, this meant jamming it in there, even with revmatching & double clutching. Now, i still double clutch but it goes in way more easily

Cold changes are better too, but its slotting it into 1st that is a big winner :mrgreen::mrgreen:

[taza]

I can now report it has made a difference

Did some nice tracks yesterday. As usual with my asthmatic EJ20J Foz, I need to be in exactly the right gear or she runs out of puff, which means downchanging into 1st on the move.

before, this meant jamming it in there, even with revmatching & double clutching. Now, i still double clutch but it goes in way more easily

Cold changes are better too, but its slotting it into 1st that is a big winner :mrgreen::mrgreen:

Mine still doesn't go in 1st very well
I know what you mean about running out of puff, thats probably my biggest issue with the engine in the foz. Maybe you should supercharge yours too. lol
We can cover Aus in supercharged EJ's..

[NachaLuva]

Mine still doesn't go in 1st very well

Do you "double clutch"?

I know what you mean about running out of puff, thats probably my biggest issue with the engine in the foz. Maybe you should supercharge yours too. lol
We can cover Aus in supercharged EJ's..

They could breed :roll:

Seriously, if you do it well with no issues I'm absolutely positive I'm not the only who would be looking at doing it