Engine stalling...

guyph_01 · Post by **guyph_01** » Mon Mar 29, 2010 11:26 pm

Hi guys.

This wired thing happened 2day. Drove the car to a tyre shop to change the tyres. Once that was done, i started the car, put it in reverse and the engine stalled. Fuel pump was not working. Waited a while then pump was working, started the car, it was fine till i put it in reverse again and died.

this happened 4 times, so then we pushed it out, started the car and drove straight forward home. it didn't die. Once i got home i tried to put it in reverse and it was fine...

I can't understand, its too wired for me. Did someone com across something like that?

Thx
Guy

SuBaRiNo · Post by **SuBaRiNo** » Thu Apr 01, 2010 9:03 am

That doesn't make sence at all. I assume this is in your Ej22 L series? What fuel pump did u end up using? Maybe thats on it's way out.

I can;t see how putting it in reverse effects the engine in any way except maybe if the harness is run near the gear shifter.

If the problem is still there in a couple of weeks i can take a look for ya. Really busy sortin out my wedding till then.

Dave

RSR 555 · Post by **RSR 555** » Thu Apr 01, 2010 9:28 am

Definately something to do with the conversion and like Dave as mentioned, maybe a wire is sorting out around the shifter?? The only other thing I can think of is the power for the fuel pump is running off the same circuit as the reverse lights and your battery was a little low at that stage and charged by the time you got home? I'd check the battery acid condition (just a thought).

Matt · Post by **Matt** » Thu Apr 01, 2010 11:06 am

Maybe earth to on the wiring, when in reverse the lights and the pump take up to much current through a dodgy earth? Maybe try pulling the fuse for the reverse lights and see what happens?

guyph_01 · Post by **guyph_01** » Thu Apr 01, 2010 1:54 pm

yeah thats what i figured, That was so wierd. Its the std efi fuel pump. Well that stopped now but some time the pump does not go on. i need to wiggle, LOL the wire before it pumps again.

i guess a way to find out would be to put a new pump and reconect the wire.

Also dave, If you have time, i'd rather you have a look at that check engine problem.
I think i'll just replace the pump sometime.

SuBaRiNo · Post by **SuBaRiNo** » Thu Apr 01, 2010 8:47 pm

No time till mid May. Then i can sort you for sure.

Where is this wire u *wiggle*?? Is it under the dash or at the fuel pump??

Dave

guyph_01 · Post by **guyph_01** » Thu Apr 01, 2010 9:11 pm

its at the fuel pump. Either with the stock conector or where it goes in the pump.

Ok thats no problem, been driving her with the engine light and fan constantly on well, since i converted it. Woun't in a hurry to wait till may:)

thx

SuBaRiNo · Post by **SuBaRiNo** » Thu Apr 01, 2010 9:17 pm

Cool yeah your problem is in that connector. i wouldn't mind to bet it has absolutely nothing to do with your reverse gear.

Dave

guyph_01 · Post by **guyph_01** » Thu Apr 01, 2010 9:49 pm

yeah i know sounds wire but i did it ten time and everytime i started the car, it was fine in all gears and as soon as i put it reverse it would just stall slowly and dead. will need to wiggle it for pump to start again. Did that ten times then just drove it home without reversing and tried to stick it in reverse when i got home and it didn't stall.

Thats what happened exactly!!! yes i know confusing:S LOL

YouTube · Post by **El_Freddo** » Fri Apr 02, 2010 11:05 am

Guyph,

The fans on constantly is a dead or near dead temp sensor (ECU's) beside the dash guage's temp sensor. Mine is the same, apparently $25 for the part and a lot of hastle to swap it out. I haven't got around to it yet.

I've also got an issue with some air solenoid, the creamy coloured one on the driver's side of the throttle body. Haven't looked into that one either, need a factory manual which I should download sometime. I just put up with both at the moment as its still going well enough for me

To check for codes you need to find the two black connectors in the EJ wiring, plug them in together then turn the ignition switch into the "ON" position without the engine running. This will give you the codes in the order of priority or the order that they've appeared to the ECU I think...

Hope this helps.

Cheers

Bennie

guyph_01 · Post by **guyph_01** » Fri Apr 02, 2010 5:35 pm

yeah i know how to check the codes, did that a millions time already and no code apart from speed sensor and some auto stuff as the lib was auto.

Which of the two sensors i need to change. I know there is two, not sure which one, can you put a pic? If its $25 i might just change it and see what happens.

But i don't think its that as no code for it is comming on and i remember i had swaped one of them two sensor at the start thinking it was that but was with a second hand one.

Anyway thx for the ideas, helps to have different thoughts.

Thx

SuBaRiNo · Post by **SuBaRiNo** » Fri Apr 02, 2010 9:51 pm

if you know where the temp sensors are... your right there are 2. One has 1 wire on it... this is for your temp guage in the car... the other has 2 wires. This one is for your computer. Im sure when u see where this sensor is you will decide to leave it as it is.

Although there is no code for it does not mean it's not faulty in some way. It would explain the problems you are having with the fan though.

Dave

RSR 555 · Post by **RSR 555** » Fri Apr 02, 2010 11:48 pm

Not saying this is your problem but we did a conversion on a Brumby (EJ20NA) and the fans would stay on after driving the car only 10 meters down the road?? It turned out that the computer didn't like the engine revs (odd high and low) and thinking the car wasn't moving so to fix it we fitted a inline speed sensor (cut into the speedo cable) and the problems stopped. I'm not sure if there is anyway of removing this circuit from the ECU

guyph_01 · Post by **guyph_01** » Sat Apr 03, 2010 12:14 am

:S.... I have no clue whats going on with this car.

It drives, does not over heat. I had two different engines, two different ecu's and tried a few thing but nothing solved the problem....

Its annoying. I didn't try nothing close to that speed sensor thing. How do you fit the inline speed sensor and where do you get it?

Thx

steptoe · Post by **steptoe** » Sat Apr 03, 2010 4:47 am

I wonder if a cruise control pulse generator like with AP50 or AP60 from the Command Auto Group in Botany NSW would keep the ECU speed sensor circuit excited enough? It is simply a magnet that zippy ties to a CV or tailshaft with a sensor mounted a few mm off to read it. Pulses are altered by changing number of magnets evenly spaced around the chosen shaft. The company are great and may be able to supply just the bits you need. It has two wire connection.

RSR 555 · Post by **RSR 555** » Sat Apr 03, 2010 9:58 am

Yeah.. The Brumby we converted also didn't overheat, in fact it's probably running slightly below normal temp due to the cooler thermostat but that's besides the point.

As for the speed sensor (2 wire), it's just a reed switch that makes contact as it rotates. We then used the 1 wire from the ECU (I can't remember the pinout number or colour) and then the connected the other side to earth. I believe they use these speed sensors for aftermarket cruise control units. We brought our speed sensor from a place in Welshpool called AISAT.

The way we found this out was to use the wire coming from the ECU and put a small resistor on it and touch earth, then suddenly the fans went off and too the Check Engine Light??? it was weird but it worked.

As I mentioned before.. I don't know if it's the same problem as yours but may be worth a try (small resistor = 25c from Jaycar)

guyph_01 · Post by **guyph_01** » Sat Apr 03, 2010 10:07 am

oh ok, What size resistor? when i mean size, i mean what resistance should i get? and if i get it all i do is find the speed sensor pin, hook the resistor to it on one side and touch earth on the other?

cool cool i'll try that next week.

SuBaRiNo · Post by **SuBaRiNo** » Sat Apr 03, 2010 11:20 am

If you can be patient i can have a look at this for u. If you blow anything i can't fix it. It's weird i have done many of these conversions and never come across this problem where the speed sensor was needed for anything.

There are a few things i can think of that we can try.. If your L series was EFI before there should already be a speed sensor wire behind the speedo. We can also try to simply earth the speed sensor wire... it's just a trigger so this should be safe.. or wire it to you Tacho wire... this also pulses a earth but perhaps this will palse too fast.

If you have swapped the motors and still had the same problem then it's extreamily unlikely its the temp sensor on your motor. Is the ecu u have running in the car the exact ECU that came off the car with the motor... perhaps they are paired up... i know there are differences in ej22 injectors.. perhaps there is more to it.

Dave

RSR 555 · Post by **RSR 555** » Sat Apr 03, 2010 12:09 pm

guyph_01 wrote:oh ok, What size resistor? when i mean size, i mean what resistance should i get? and if i get it all i do is find the speed sensor pin, hook the resistor to it on one side and touch earth on the other?

cool cool i'll try that next week.

I'm going off memory here.. I believe it was a 10 Ohm. We are 99% sure it's not required but just as Dave is saying we didn't want to blow anything up.

SuBaRiNo wrote:If you can be patient i can have a look at this for u. If you blow anything i can't fix it. It's weird i have done many of these conversions and never come across this problem where the speed sensor was needed for anything.

There are a few things i can think of that we can try.. If your L series was EFI before there should already be a speed sensor wire behind the speedo. We can also try to simply earth the speed sensor wire... it's just a trigger so this should be safe.. or wire it to you Tacho wire... this also pulses a earth but perhaps this will palse too fast.

If you have swapped the motors and still had the same problem then it's extreamily unlikely its the temp sensor on your motor. Is the ecu u have running in the car the exact ECU that came off the car with the motor... perhaps they are paired up... i know there are differences in ej22 injectors.. perhaps there is more to it.

Dave

Yeah your probably right Dave with regards to the Touring Wagon Dash as my friend Richard fitted his EJ22 and connected his speed sensor wire to his cluster and that was one of the best running EJ22 I've ever seen (fuel economy wise).

I remember you telling me that you had done many of these wiring conversions and that you never had this issue before, I'm not disputing you, all I'm saying is that I had this problem and it may be rare but worth a try

I trust your word more than anything otherwise I wouldn't have got you to do Gleno's EJ18 wiring harness. We love you Dave and wish you could get married faster cause we have heaps of work for you

guyph_01 · Post by **guyph_01** » Sat Apr 03, 2010 2:59 pm

yeah na im not gonna start to connect and blow stuff up, I'll let you 'Dave' have a look at it for me when you have time.

Humm, Im not sure that its the ecu for the loom. I got the loom and ecu from matatak when he took his MY apart. Pretty sure he gave me the loom and a Ecu, not sure if they match tho.

Engine did not come with that loom. Engine is from a G1S2. not sure what series the loom is.

Yeah my car is an EFI so most prob the speed sensor stuff are still in:)

Also it be nice if you could have a look at my fans, connect them from two power source working of the ecu. As you remember before they were connected from one power source and one fan was working 70% and the other 30% and caused the car to over heat. I then left one on the ECU wire and the other is hooked with to the power and on/off switch in the car:)

Aprat from those two things, she is perfect:P