Steering rack shudder

someguy · Post by **someguy** » Sun Oct 04, 2009 3:54 pm

Hi All.

After ruling out that my discs were not warped I am moving on to the theory that my problem might be to do with the steering rack.

The problem:
When I brake from 40-50km/h or more I get heavy vibrations from the steering column.

I called the RAA out today for a second opinion and he said it was more than likely the steering rack too.

Does anyone know specifically what the problem could be (maybe as simple as a loose bolt)

Since I am new to working on my own cars it would be great if someone could post some pics of areas to look at so I know what im looking for.

Thanks all.

(please be patient with me im still learning)

justincase41 · Post by **justincase41** » Sun Oct 04, 2009 4:48 pm

How did you determine that the disk's were not warped? Did you check the wheel bearings for exessive play?

There are a few checks you can do on the rack whilst it is in the car. Firstly do you have power steering?

Check that the steering rack boots are't torn. If they are torn, theres a change that road grit and grime could have gotten into the steering gear via the rack ends. If they are torn, check the condition of the steering gear bushes.

Check the condition of the steering rack bracket bushes for severe splitting, cracking, shrinking, oil contamination. If they are the original items, replace them with some new ones. Also check that the steering rack bracket bolts are tight.

Check the tie rod ends. To do this, raise front of car onto stands. Move the front wheels either side by gripping either side of the tyre and feel for play and exessive movement. Watch the tie rod end and look movement.

Check you ball joints as well.

Check play in the steering rack ends. To do this, raise front of car onto stands. Move the front wheels either side by gripping either side of the tyre and feel for play and exessive movement. Have a look at the steering wheel whilst you are doing this and check if the steering wheel moves when you move the steering wheel. If there is slight delay when moving road wheel and movement in the steering wheel, there is play either in the rack ends, tie rod ends or steering gear it self.

If you find your steering rack is worn, would be cheaper to buy as reco unit. Check out the link below as an example.

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/Subaru-Leone-Bru ... 286.c0.m14

Another option is to take you vehicle to pedders and get one of those cheap inspections. From memory they are like $15 or something. Tell them the issues and they will go over all the suspension and tell you what needs replacing. Then order the parts elsewhere and replace everything yourself.

This is a big NO NO!

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GOD · Post by **GOD** » Sun Oct 04, 2009 4:51 pm

If the problem is only evident under brakes, my money is on it being a problem with the brakes, maybe hubs or wheels. Is there anything wrong with the steering to suggest a rack fault?

Even if the brake rotors are not warped, it's possible they could be mounted incorrectly (a bit of dirt between hub and rotor perhaps, or hub to rotor bolts not done up properly). And are the pads wearing evenly?

Badly worn wheel bearings will allow excessive wheel movement, but you'll feel that whenever the car is moving, not just under brakes. Ball joints will cause sloppy steering, but again, not just under brakes.

Make sure there are no lumps of mud stuck to your wheels, and that you're not missing any balance weights. Get under the (well supported) car and grab whatever you can see and try to shake it. If anything moves and looks like it shouldn't, tighten it/replace it/report back here.

Dane.

someguy · Post by **someguy** » Sun Oct 04, 2009 5:23 pm

ok i have determined what might be causing the problem.

I have put the car up on stands and when turning the wheel from left to right i can hear a clunking noise.

That clunking noise also occurs when the vibration is happening while im braking.

Now im getting somewhere.

now just to find where the clunking noise is coming from.

(EDIT: it almost sounds like its coming from the suspension)

Also for those who have asked the boots have split and are getting replaced in the next week or so when the funds are available but they have only split within the last couple of weeks so they have not been exposed for very long and this shuddering problem has been going on for months.

justincase41 · Post by **justincase41** » Sun Oct 04, 2009 5:54 pm

Check the Steering rack bracket bolts and bushes, and also check the steering shaft coupling as well

openflame06 · Post by **openflame06** » Wed Oct 07, 2009 6:43 pm

I had shudders in my wagon recently similar to what you said. My rack ends were completely anihlated.

I ended up replacing the rack ends, tie rod ends and ball joints and the car steers exceptionally better.

You can sometimes tell if they are really badly worn by pulling and pushing on the front wheel while the car is on the ground and listening for clunking noises.

If you are getting clunking noises when the steering is full lock right its possible that your CV joints are screwed - have you checked all your rubber boots to make sure they are in good condition? <---- Just read above post, so ignore this hahaha.

If the boots are getting replaced they will be able to see if the joints are stuffed anyway.

someguy · Post by **someguy** » Tue Oct 20, 2009 7:19 pm

Just as a followup incase anyone is interested.

Took the car to the mechanic.

Turns out:
* CV Joints are buggered
* Wheel Bearings are worn
* boots are split
* L/H Rotor is warped
* Pads are worn
* Engine & gearbox mounts need replacing
* Can't remember the exact issue but something to do with the rack shaft

All up around $2500.

Considering the engine has done 355,000km im considering whether I should sell the car as $2500 just doesn't seem worth it only to have to replace the engine sooner or later anyway.

GOD · Post by **GOD** » Tue Oct 20, 2009 8:12 pm

Do you have annual roadworthiness inspections in SA? If not, just prioritise and tackle one job at a time. I can see about $700 in parts on that list, and all those jobs only require basic tools and a thinking cap to DIY.

Dane.

justincase41 · Post by **justincase41** » Tue Oct 20, 2009 8:26 pm

$2500....................... WTF!

* CV Joints are buggered $220 (Ebay)
* Wheel Bearings are worn $144 (Ebay)
* boots are split $20 (Super cheap / repco ect)
* L/H Rotor is warped $40 machine front rotors or $60 for two new front rotors
* Pads are worn $40-$100 (Ebay, repco ect)
* Engine & gearbox mounts need replacing $140 -
* Can't remember the exact issue but something to do with the rack shaft $300 for reco steering rack plus postage Ebay)
Wheel alignment once all done $50
Carton of piss and the boys over for an arvo $40
Total $900 - $1000

Once all these things area done, your front end will be heaps tigher.