Removing Crankshaft Pully

[ScubyRoo]

I'm having a right bitch of a time trying to remove the crankshaft pulley of my ej22. It's currently out of the car and being stripped down to rebuild.

My main two questions are:

1. What are the methods you've used in the past to immobilse the CSP (or any for that matter);
2. Where is the cheapest place to get myself a decent length of steel to use as a bad-arse breaker bar?

I've currently got an assistant holding a crowbar in the flywheel to stop the pulley from turning, but I can't get enough leverage with my breaker bar. this method would only work for the CSP anyway, and as i'm stripping down the whole lot I've got other pulleys to get at. The subi manual on here and in my garage both state to use special tools - one says a 'chain wrench', the other a 'cam shaft pulley tool', neither of which can i find at the auto stores around home. Suggestions?

Any and all help appreciated!

Cheers,
Owen.

[GOD]

1. What are the methods you've used in the past to immobilse the CSP (or any for that matter);
2. Where is the cheapest place to get myself a decent length of steel to use as a bad-arse breaker bar?

1. Like you, I got someone to hold a big screwdriver between the flywheel and the bellhousing.

2. I have two breaker bars: the first is the handle of my trolley jack on a Sidchrome 1/2" ratchet, the better one is a metre length of about 30mm tube (found in the bush) on a 3/4" drive handle. If you don't have anything lying around, some hardware shops sell short lengths of steel.

Good luck with it.

Dane.

[Jeff]

Put one of the clutch bolts back in the flywheel and screw it in far enough that you won't bugger threads, hang the ring end of a ring/ open end spanner on it and let the open end end go over one of the bottom bell housing bolts that are sticking out. You will need to turn the engine till it locks up . You can use the other side to do it up. I hope that made sense

[TOONGA]

you say the engine is out of the car which is a problem if you want to get the CSP aka harmonic balancer off normally I have a trusted assistant to help me with this procedure


before you start all plug leads must be off the engine ( I take the plugs out as well just to be even safer) and you must have a good quality 1/2 inch breaker bar and socket of the exact fitting of the CSP bolt

1.with a breaker bar long enough to reach the ground from the socket on the CSP and set so that when the CSP turns the breaker bar is in solid contact with a cement surface so that the bolt in the CSP will loosen (if the engine turns clockwise the breaker bar will be angled to the downward right of the front of the engine)

2. get said trusted assistant to crank the engine once and once only this will give enough torque to undo the bolt

3. repair cement floor

TOONGA

[ScubyRoo]

Was riding to the tip and found myself passing by mitre ten. Spied a scrap pile the handy folks at mitre 10 decided to throw away a few bits of steel. A quick rummage found a handy 2.5m piece of square tubing. Put a large screwdriver through the bell housing access hole and jammed it against a crowbar.

screwdriver + crowbar + 2.5m breaker bar = no problems!

BUT, I know have to get the camshaft sprockets off each side, with nothing to hold said sprockets in place.... Any suggestions? Might try and find that 'special tool'?

Cheers,
Owen.

[AlpineRaven]

if you have an air compressor, you could use the rattle gun, it'll get it off without damaging anything. You could borrow one from a mate or mechanic for overnight,
Cheers
AP

[phillatdarwin]

use the rattle gun as it is the way to go .
and u do not get sore hands from slipping

[ScubyRoo]

rattle gun would be great, if i had a car to pick up an air compressor with...

[phillatdarwin]

hire one for the day and get it drop off

[El_Freddo]

Owen, these shouldn't be too difficult to remove without a belt or something holding it in in place - its just in the way you place the lever your using, make sure it crosses over the centre of the cam gear, if you have it away (opposite) the centre you're creating a lever that will easily move the gear around.

Also a quick tap with a heavy hammer or mallet helps too - you just need to 'crack' the hold of the bolt and you'll be in business. I use this method all the time and will be doing the same on my EJ hopefully this week... If you've still got the timing belt on you can hold the crank again and do the cam gears - don't do this if you're not going to change the timing belt.

Here's a tip for holding the crank that is minimal effort (I use it all the time): Find an apropriately sized nut, place this between the flywheel and the engine's bell housing on the side that the flywheel will be moving in a downwards motion - the bolt will lock between the flywheel and the engine's part of the bell housing with minimal effort for you.

Good luck with the rebuild! If you're doing the whole hog - rebore/hone, new rings and pistons/new rings, and new bearings all the best with it! Once you've got it back together and its going you'll feel very satisfied!! If you're rebuilding it - meaning replacing the parts 'up to' the headgasket all the best with it too, while its not as full on you'll still feel pretty satisified. Once you pop you can't stop!

Cheers

Bennie

[wrxer]

i know im ressurecting the dead post, but for others, with twin cams you can lift rocker cover and there is hex portion of the cam, surely can use that to hold while undooing pulleys.