Slipping clutch/box removal?

Busdriver · Post by **Busdriver** » Thu Jan 08, 2009 4:43 pm

Hey all, I have had a look and found a post from Subafury where he said that you dont have to pull the gearbox all the way out of an L series wagon to change the clutch. Mine has just started slipping and the adjustments are all good, so it looks like I will have to be replacing it soon and I am keen to not have to remove the box all the way if I dont have too as it looks pretty heavy for one bloke (No friends, cant afford them)
My question is, if anyone knows, can you replace the throwout bearing this way and do you have to drop off the exhaust header pipes?
I am game to gamble on the spigot and I dont think the flywheel will be too bad either, as I am now driving it like a nanny to prevent any excessive wear and as long as I dont put my hoof all the way down I can still get around without it slipping. Any advice appreciated as always:)

BBoypebs · Post by **BBoypebs** » Thu Jan 08, 2009 8:18 pm

when i do my clutches i remove the engine.
it takes me four hours to do by my self.

AlpineRaven · Post by **AlpineRaven** » Thu Jan 08, 2009 8:47 pm

Me - 3 hours remove gearbox & drop down with trolley jack's help, exhausted removed & CVs/tailshaft.

Its lot easier bec the shaft is too long then you'll end up removing the box. also you'll need to align the clutch pressure plate and again the box has to be moved out anyway.
If you have access to a crane or hoist etc you could move the engine forward/pull out.

For me - if i had the time, I would remove engine and box at the same time (to do other works on the engine at the same time)... if it was a quick job I'd remove the box.
Cheers
AP

Post by **Alex** » Thu Jan 08, 2009 10:01 pm

take off the tailshaft and gbox linkages and slide the box bak just far enuf the access the clutch. From personal experience dont remove the engine. Spesh if u have aircon and powersteering.

Alex

D3V1L · Post by **D3V1L** » Thu Jan 08, 2009 10:30 pm

as alex said...and leave pressure plate bolts loose,,, helps lining up the box and clutch then do them up vial starter motor hole....presto....alex and i have done that many clutches in his L series and my cars and i pretty sure we done every method known to man and simply sliding it back is the easiest way by my experience

dave

AndrewT · Post by **AndrewT** » Thu Jan 08, 2009 10:38 pm

Agreed sliding gearbox back is easiest way. Removing the engine "can" be easier but only if you have a banger running from only bare essentials. No clutch alignment tool is necessary, use the gearbox itself to align the clutch with the bolts just barely finger tight then torque them up through the starter motor hole.

Busdriver · Post by **Busdriver** » Fri Jan 09, 2009 4:18 pm

Thanks for the answers guys, I have done it both ways before, engine out and box out, and I no longer have access to either a hoist or a crane, so I will be doing it on the ground with the car jacked up I was hoping to hear that it was do-able so thanks again.

Busdriver · Post by **Busdriver** » Thu Mar 12, 2009 8:56 pm

Job done last weekend and very easy to do without pulling the box right out, took a while because I was not motivated to rush and cruised along instead. Thanks again to all who answered question.

AlpineRaven · Post by **AlpineRaven** » Thu Mar 12, 2009 8:59 pm

Busdriver wrote:Job done last weekend and very easy to do without pulling the box right out, took a while because I was not motivated to rush and cruised along instead. Thanks again to all who answered question.

how long did it take ya?
Cheers
AP

Busdriver · Post by **Busdriver** » Fri Mar 13, 2009 3:34 pm

Probly about 8 hours all up spread over sat and sun with a lot of breaks lol.
Can go faster but spent 3 years as a brake/Clutch mech with only a two post hoist so doing clutches on the ground using trolley jacks doesnt grab me anymore hence all the (beer) breaks