Bleeding brakes
Posted: Sun Feb 17, 2008 12:52 pm
How hard is it to bleed the brakes on my ea81. i want to try and do it myself. dad is a tradesman so i have a few tools. also what will the brake fluid cost to replace?
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Bleeding brakes
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Posted: Sun Feb 17, 2008 2:20 pm
If your Dad is a tradesman, get him to show you how to bleed your brakes. My 5 year old daughter helps me do mine. Takes about 5 minutes unless something is wrong. Buy a litre of brakefluid before you start. It's cheap and you can't live without it.
Posted: Sun Feb 17, 2008 3:45 pm
tradesman as in plumber/builder. not mechanic
Posted: Mon Feb 18, 2008 1:09 am
To answer your first question, nah it's not hard. Most home mechanics should have no problem with it.
As far as tools go you pretty much just need a small 8mm (i think?) spanner, I prefer ring spanners myself. This is used to open and close the bleed valves.
A one-man-bleeder valve tube helps a lot too. These are inexpensive and available at most auto shops.
I can't quite remember what brake fluid costs but it shouldn't brake the bank! (pun intended)
As far as tools go you pretty much just need a small 8mm (i think?) spanner, I prefer ring spanners myself. This is used to open and close the bleed valves.
A one-man-bleeder valve tube helps a lot too. These are inexpensive and available at most auto shops.
I can't quite remember what brake fluid costs but it shouldn't brake the bank! (pun intended)
Posted: Mon Feb 18, 2008 5:55 am
Yeah.. I think you would need 2 litres if you really want to flush it right out...
For as home job - you need 2 people, one person at the wheel and other pumping the brakes, while you are at the wheel, unscrew the bleeder with a approx 400mm long tube into a jar with brake fluid in it to prevent air going back in, you will need to call out to the person behind the wheel "pump then pump pump then hold it down before you lock the bleeder, if you pump it up the air and old fluid will go back in so you need to pump down then hold it down... otherwise you'll have to do the whole job again... You must check the brake reservoir every time otherwise air will go in!... Once you give yourself a go - you'll get it.
Other thing would be lot easier is to buy a brake bleeder kit - it'll suck the brake fluid while you pull - you won't need 2nd person to help you.
Cheers
AP
For as home job - you need 2 people, one person at the wheel and other pumping the brakes, while you are at the wheel, unscrew the bleeder with a approx 400mm long tube into a jar with brake fluid in it to prevent air going back in, you will need to call out to the person behind the wheel "pump then pump pump then hold it down before you lock the bleeder, if you pump it up the air and old fluid will go back in so you need to pump down then hold it down... otherwise you'll have to do the whole job again... You must check the brake reservoir every time otherwise air will go in!... Once you give yourself a go - you'll get it.
Other thing would be lot easier is to buy a brake bleeder kit - it'll suck the brake fluid while you pull - you won't need 2nd person to help you.
Cheers
AP
Posted: Mon Feb 18, 2008 8:54 am
Tried the *universal* brake bleeder kits and found them to be cruddy - wouldn't stay on. So I always just use 2 people as described before.
Also there is a sequence which should be followed, with the Subarus it is usually Driver-side front, Passenger-side Rear, Passenger-side Front, Driver-side rear. I like to repeat once too.
Do not allow the fluid in the reservoir to get below about 1/3 as you don't want to suck air in (you're trying to get it out) so frequent top-ups are good. Also make sure you don't leave the fluid lid off longer than you need to, brake fluid is hydroscopic so it absorbs moisture from the air which degrades it's ability. Getting dirt or dust in there isn't good either, so make sure you clean the cap and surrounds before removing. Spilling it on the paint is a bad idea too. Wash it off with a lot of water ASAP.
Brake fluid can be had at about $8 a litre for normal stuff to $90 a litre for ultra-high performance racing stuff (overkill for most).
Also there is a sequence which should be followed, with the Subarus it is usually Driver-side front, Passenger-side Rear, Passenger-side Front, Driver-side rear. I like to repeat once too.
Do not allow the fluid in the reservoir to get below about 1/3 as you don't want to suck air in (you're trying to get it out) so frequent top-ups are good. Also make sure you don't leave the fluid lid off longer than you need to, brake fluid is hydroscopic so it absorbs moisture from the air which degrades it's ability. Getting dirt or dust in there isn't good either, so make sure you clean the cap and surrounds before removing. Spilling it on the paint is a bad idea too. Wash it off with a lot of water ASAP.
Brake fluid can be had at about $8 a litre for normal stuff to $90 a litre for ultra-high performance racing stuff (overkill for most).
Posted: Mon Feb 18, 2008 11:21 am
*warning* a weak brake master will possibly let go during this brake pumping procedure, even tho otherwise your master cylinder may have been good for a few more years yet, but shit happens. To help guard against this, just keep checking to refill the master, don't let more air in there.
Posted: Mon Feb 18, 2008 7:41 pm
ah... I thought you would bleed the furthest to shortest lines??
Cheers
AP
Cheers
AP