Fitting an EJ Motor into an MY or L Series Subaru

Any thing and every thing ever asked about how to do an EJ conversion to an L series and MY. Includes Brumby and Coupe.
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stinky
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Post by stinky » Fri Mar 27, 2009 2:08 pm

what CV inner boots are used on the brumby->ej gearbox ? my right one shredded yesterday and about all that's left is the rubber directly under the steel clamps.
'91 brumby, EJ-Turbo with VOSChip, 2" lift, 15" superlites, Dual Range AWD.

'93 Subaru Legacy, 2.2 auto, automatic seatbelts, LHD.

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brumbyrunner
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Post by brumbyrunner » Fri Mar 27, 2009 5:24 pm

Standard Brumby boots.
Settlement Creek Racing

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Brumble
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Post by Brumble » Tue Sep 22, 2009 11:47 pm

Are there any legal implications with regard to cutting into the chassis rails to fit an ej20t? I would have thought rego inspectors wouldn't be to impressed with the idea. As much as I would love to have a turbo engine, I have to be able to register the car once it is in.

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Brumble
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Post by Brumble » Thu Sep 24, 2009 10:06 pm

I have spoken with the Motor Vehicle Registry here in the NT and so long as I submit an application for modification approval prior to starting and any welding to the chassis is completed by a ticketed welder and certified there shouldn't be any problem modifying the chassis to fit an ej20t.

So long as I can gather all the required details and submit the application by next Wednesday they will be able to give me a response the following week, otherwise I will have to wait until the following month.

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openflame06
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Post by openflame06 » Wed Oct 07, 2009 7:21 pm

Ive been looking into the legal stuff as well. On the RTA website (for NSW) and I think this forum has links as well there is a Vehicle Standard Information sheet that outlines some of the details about doing an engine swap.

From memory it was pretty basic, but I remember it saying something like you can go 15% on top of the original engine capacity so say for example L series 1800CC you can fit a 2 litre engine since thats 15%.

http://www.rta.nsw.gov.au/registration/ ... v_2007.pdf

The link above is the sheet i was reading just found it again. Seems going to an EJ20 would be fine as long as all manufacturer parts are kept and not modified and no structural modifications are necessary.

If modifications are necessary apparently it has to be engineered. I havent been able to find an updated version of that VSI sheet, its dated 2007 but no later document seems to be on the site.

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tommo
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Post by tommo » Thu Dec 10, 2009 9:35 pm

Here's a question.
When putting an NA EJ20 into a non lifted L series sedan, does the exhaust that came with the engine (impreza or something) clear the underbody?
I think a lot of people put EJs into cars with lift kits which gives you plenty of clearance but just wondering about stock height cars.
Thanks

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drof351
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Post by drof351 » Thu Dec 10, 2009 10:18 pm

Gday tommo, i've just fitted a naturally aspirated ej into an l series that hasnt been lifted, engine and exhausts fit in with no problems.

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GOD
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Post by GOD » Fri Dec 11, 2009 12:41 am

tommo wrote:Here's a question.
When putting an NA EJ20 into a non lifted L series sedan, does the exhaust that came with the engine (impreza or something) clear the underbody?
I think a lot of people put EJs into cars with lift kits which gives you plenty of clearance but just wondering about stock height cars.
Thanks
The EJ header pipe will clear the underbody as long as you don't put really thick wedges under the engine mounts. 9mm works for me, 12mm was too thick. The rest of the exhaust, i.e. cat-back, must be L series with a slight modification/

Dane.
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tommo
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Post by tommo » Fri Dec 11, 2009 10:27 am

Not sure what you mean about wedges under the engine mounts Dane, care to ellaborate? And yeah, it's just the header and cat I was wondering about.
Thanks.

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AndrewT
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Post by AndrewT » Fri Dec 11, 2009 11:43 am

The EJ engine crossmember has a flatter angle on both sides where the engine mounts sit. When you sit them on an EA crossmember they are at a greater angle which can eventually lead to premature breakage of the mounts (they are only rubber and usually quite old to start with). It's a good idea to make small triangular wedges to bring it closer to the original angle. A few people have posted photos of what they've done. It's not entirely required but a good idea. You do need to space the mounts up slightly anyway otherwise the bellhousing hits the crossmember slightly.

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GOD
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Post by GOD » Fri Dec 11, 2009 2:25 pm

Image
Three bits of 50x3 flat tacked together, so 9 mm thick at the thick end. My previous attempt used four pieces, and that pulled the header up too much and made it touch the crossmember.

Dane.
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1993 EA82/EJ18/EJ22/EJ22/EJ20/EJ22 L Series perpetual project

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tommo
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Post by tommo » Fri Dec 11, 2009 8:59 pm

I see now. Thanks alot guys, very helpful!

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steptoe
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Post by steptoe » Sun Jan 17, 2010 8:00 am

On my trial fit of an EA82T onto an MY crossmember I considered the wedges, for amoment, then simply tightened the nuts up and pulled the EA82 engine mount into place. Does this also work in EJ engine applications. Thinkinmg not if it is 9mm you dealing with

On another topic,

CHOOSING DONOR CAR FOR CONVERSION

If it has been said before in THIS thread, my apologies.

Thinking is along the lines of buying donor car, not just bits.

IF the receiver is MY, considering you may also do brake upgrade, I have read it is best fit that Impreza suspension is used with the brake upgrade on MY, so unless you are going something EJ not available Impreza, you go look for a four wheel disc braked Imp. Some early models had drum rear

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Morcs
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Post by Morcs » Mon Jan 24, 2011 11:45 pm

steptoe wrote:On my trial fit of an EA82T onto an MY crossmember I considered the wedges, for amoment, then simply tightened the nuts up and pulled the EA82 engine mount into place. Does this also work in EJ engine applications. Thinkinmg not if it is 9mm you dealing with
You can but some would say that the engine mounts will fail fairly quickly?
My ute has done well over 100 000km with conversion in it (ej20t in brumby)
without wedges. I have only seen one gone in that time due to oil/grease on it also when i killed the gearbox with a hard launch and hard into 2nd.

So i think its more due to normal wear and tear
So many optioins not enough time or money:confused:

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RSR 555
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Post by RSR 555 » Tue Jan 25, 2011 2:21 am

For some reason they (the EJ mounts) work better in the MY Series than the L Series.. I have seen many in the MY Series without them. I also have seen then without them in the L Series and they have VERY large cracks in the rubber.. sure this can be from age but you can really see the stress the mount is under when it's in an L. I'm sure with the amount of conversions done, there would be plenty of pics around.
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codaperformance
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Post by codaperformance » Thu Apr 14, 2011 9:38 am

hi im new just a quick one i have l wagon will a ej20tt bolt straight up to my ea box??

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TOONGA
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Post by TOONGA » Thu Apr 14, 2011 10:00 am

codaperformance wrote:hi im new just a quick one i have l wagon will a ej20tt bolt straight up to my ea box??

quick answer nope

you need an adaptor plate and alot of other bits to make it work

a good read

showthread.php?t=11733

good luck

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steptoe
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Post by steptoe » Thu Apr 14, 2011 12:12 pm

why am I in here ??

need to learn ECU pin outs for 1986 EJ16 in order to know what needs to be connected to do spark only for a dedicated LPG application. Found there are just some holes at rear of RHS camshaft no dizzy drive slot
do not need idle speed
need egr control
need crank angle sensor
do these also have cam angle sensor and knock sensor?
need coil connected

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GOD
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Post by GOD » Thu Apr 14, 2011 12:30 pm

1986? 1996?

EJ16s and EJ18s don't have a cam sensor or a knock sensor. Don't think they had any ECU control of the EGR gear either.

You'll struggle to find pin outs. When I was looking, there were a couple of manuals floating around the net, but nothing that really matched AUDM hardware.

Dane.
[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]
1993 EA82/EJ18/EJ22/EJ22/EJ20/EJ22 L Series perpetual project

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Gannon
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Post by Gannon » Thu Apr 14, 2011 5:16 pm

First of all, where did you get this motor and what car did it come from?

God is right above concerning early model EJ16 and 18's, but later models (which were designed for economy) would have sequential fuel injection and thus would need a cam sensor.

Basically you will just want to use the loom as is, just unplug the fuel injectors and let the ECU pretend its still doing its job, even though there is no fuel.

You never know, you may wish to run petrol later on.
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