WRX EJ20 Turbo into L-Series Wagon

Any thing and every thing ever asked about how to do an EJ conversion to an L series and MY. Includes Brumby and Coupe.
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L-Rex
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WRX EJ20 Turbo into L-Series Wagon

Post by L-Rex » Thu Sep 20, 2018 11:21 am

Hi All,

Thought I'd start sharing the build thread for my latest project.

First, some background on me; I am an engineer, with 25+ years experience in the conversion scene, and enjoy doing the unusual conversions that most people don't attempt.
All of my conversions are fully complied through RTA/RMS signatories, and I do as much as possible of the work myself, including the machining, welding and fabrication.
Most of my conversions are still on the road, and it's pretty satisfying to see them pop up at car shows, or just spotted randomly.
Where possible, I use off-the-shelf parts, which keeps costs down, and ensures that the vehicle can be serviced/repaired well into the future.
None of my vehicles are built to be show cars. They are all designed to be reliable, daily drives, that don't draw attention to the owner; classic sleepers.

Vehicle; 1992 L-Series EA83 wagon, with a 3 speed auto.
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Donor; 2001 Bug-eye WRX, manual.
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Planned mods;
  • WRX motor
  • WRX 5 speed manual
  • WRX rear diff
  • Rear disc conversion
  • Heavy duty suspension
  • 14", 4 x 140 steel rims
  • Heater box repair
  • Radiator
  • Front mount intercooler
  • Hybrid wiring

First project; Rear disc conversion.

As many of you know, the L-series was available with rear disc brakes, both here and in the USA.
These were generally found on the turbo models, and also various Vortex vehicles.
There is a difference between the hubs for AWD and FWD, and they are available in 4 x 140 and 5 x 100 PCD.
The 5 x 100 PCD was fitted to the XT6 only (6 cylinder Vortex), and involved further modification to the front hubs to fit the L-Series.
I wanted to keep 4 x 140, so I set about sourcing those.

After ringing EVERY Subaru contact in Australia that I could think of, I received a few promising leads, all of which turned out to be dead ends, or just weirdos.
I finally found a wrecking yard in the good old USA, that had the setup that I wanted. I had them send over the hubs, backing plates and all fasteners.
The backing plates mount the rear calipers, so they are a critical part to source in good condition.
Again from the USA, I bought a set of reconditioned calipers, compete with the bracket that bolts to the backing plate.
The USA also provided a brand new set of NOS discs.
Bendix brake pads were sourced locally.
They are a direct fit, the only change required is to re-route the brake line to run over the trailing arm, below the bump stop mount.

Original drum setup
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Disc brake
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Brake line routing
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Second project; rear diff

The L-Series and the WRX run virtually the same rear diff; the trusty R160.
However, there are some significant differences when it comes to interchanging them, mainly the pinion flange and the external stubs fitted to the L-Series diff (the WRX has internal splines).
The gearbox I am running is the 3.9 version, which has a 1:1.1 output ratio to the rear diff, so although my automatic L-Series runs a 3.9, the WRX rear diff ratio is not 3.9.
After careful consideration, I decided to fit the L-Series top-hat into the WRX carrier. This essentially gives me a WRX carrier and pinion, with stub axles.
I can then run the L-series rear CV joints, which I have by the bucket load.
Note; a T10 extended E-Torx socket is required to disassemble an L-Series diff.

Stub
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Fitting to diff
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Third project; heavy duty suspension

The OEM suspension in the L-Series is fairly basic. Now, I'm not building a car for track days, but I want a good daily driver.
I could have gone down the path of a complete WRX suspension conversion, but that's not what this car is about. It's a sleeper, that I will use daily, but want to surprise a few people at the traffic lights :lol:
It's also important to retain stock height, as I have a goat-track driveway (as does my workplace), and I also want to run 14" tyres that match the rolling radius of the WRX.
I looked at the available options, and decided on King's Springs, and KYB shocks, front and rear.
I'm also looking to source a larger front sway bar, and the rear sway bar off a Turbo Wagon.

Front suspension
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Rear suspension
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Fourth project; the clutch pedal

This is one of the major jobs with this conversion. The original L-series runs a cable, push-type clutch, whereas the WRX runs a hydraulic pull-type clutch. My car is auto, so it's start from scratch.
The WRX pedal has a spring assembly in the top pivot, which adds a significant amount of height to the pedal box, especially when the clutch pedal is depressed.
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My plan was to use the existing clutch hole in the firewall to mount the WRX pedal box as a complete item. This requires some careful measurement.
One stud hole has to be drilled next to the booster, and a clamping plate has to be made for the other one next to the feedthrough (This is a simple setup of 2 thick washers).
The major part of the job is the firewall cut in the spare wheel well. The spare wheel won't be going back into the engine bay (no room) so I wasn't concerned about loosing this space.
I measured the required dimensions for the pedal box (with clutch pedal pressed), and cut a neat slot.
Then, using a combination of the removed firewall, and some sheet metal, I fabricated a box to cover the slot. This was fully welded on all seams, then coated with a generous amount of seam sealer.
A bracket was fabricated to support the top of the pedal box, welded to the box, and bolted to the steering column mount.
I then applied the required primer, base coat and clear to match the car.

Image
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At this stage, the motor has to go in for a trial fit of the dump pipe clearance to the clutch master. I spent a lot of time simulating this with measurement, but the proof is always in the pudding.
Plenty of clearance is evident, and the dump pipe will be wrapped, with the heat shield fitted. The clutch master will also be heat shielded, and the first part of the piping will be wrapped.

Image

The original L-Series brake pedal was cut down, and the WRX pedal welded on, with the throttle pedal receiving the same treatment.
The clutch pedal had to be cut down and re-aligned to suit the new placement (and to ensure full travel). In this picture, I'm still tweaking it to get it the way I want it, but you get the general idea.

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Fifth project; heater

The heater in the L-Series has plastic tanks crimped to a copper core. Mine had started leaking some time ago, and was bypassed.
As I had to take the dash out to do the clutch pedal and wiring loom, I decided to sort the heater issue.
Apon removal, I discovered the plastic tank was cracked (no surprises there). Heat had broken down the plastic, and it had become brittle.
After some ringing around, and a few fruitless visits to various shops, I finally found a place that had some NOS units with brass tanks!
They had 2 available, so I grabbed one straight away. I will fit this into the heater box, but first I plan to strip the heater box and replace all the worn out foam tape that seals the various flaps and components.

New heater
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Sixth project; 14", 4 x 140 rims

In keeping with the sleeper look I prefer, I wanted to run 4 x 140 steel rims. The original 13" pizza cutters aren't going to be up to the task, so I set about sourcing some 14" steel rims.
I chose black, as it goes well with the car, and makes it look more stock. These are as close as you can get to the original Scorpion wheels, but are in a 14" x 6" size, and come with new chrome nuts.
They will be shod with 195/70-R14, which makes them the same rolling radius as the original WRX, keeping the speedo accurate, and giving the car a chunky look.

(I borrowed the pic from Google, as mine are still boxed up).

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Seventh project; the radiator

The L-Series radiator is not up to the task of cooling the EJ, and the tank fittings are the wrong size (30mm vs 40mm) and location.
The WRX radiator is way too tall to fit in the engine bay, so another solution was required.
I looked at getting a 2-row radiator built in the same style as the L-Series, using brass tanks, with different fittings.
After visiting several radiator shops, they all put it in the can't do/too hard basket, and no amount of cash would persuade them :roll:
So, I hit the web, and found the perfect solution; an all alloy radiator to suit a 1989 Toyota MR2.
It will need to have some mounts fabricated, and a couple of 12" Davies Craig thermo fans fitted, but it's the perfect size, with the right inlet and outlet orientation.
There is probably a more elegant solution, but these are cheap and plentiful, in keeping with the ongoing serviceability of the vehicle.

More detail on the fitting process to follow...

The radiator
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The eighth project; the water-to-air intercooler

A you all know, the WRX runs a top mount intercooler, which requires a bonnet scoop. The existing scoop doesn't fit the L-Series bonnet, and I want more of a sleeper look anyways.
There are plenty of front mount kits available for the WRX, but they take up a lot of room in the L, especially the piping. Based on this, I decided to go for a water-to-air setup. A kit like this will make it a lot easier to fit.
It will require a plumb-back BOV, because I'm not into the sound of an atmospheric (and they are illegal).
This will be fitted in front of the apron, in a bumper cut-out. Haven't ironed out the finer details of this yet, but I will add to the post when I do.

(Image borrowed from the eBay seller, as mine is still in the box).

The front mount
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The ninth project; the engine

Having done a lot of the prep work, now it gets down to the fun part; actually getting the EJ to fit in there. The EJ20 turbo is a quad cam motor, with the "Spider" manifold.
Despite what people will tell you, the EJ25 turbo won't fit in there, unless you cut the rails, which introduces approval issues.
The EJ22 turbo will just fit, but it fails the "finger-gap" clearance, which I set for my projects (plus it's a bit of an orphan motor).

The up-pipe (I'm running a catless) fouls the original L-Series engine crossmember, but Mr. Subaru was a kind man, and released the L-Series in a turbo, so there are crossmembers available with the stamped depression for the up-pipe.
Now, I could modify the non-turbo one that I have, but I like to use original parts where possible. This sent me on a 3 month journey to find the unobtainium crossmember.
There are plenty in the USA, but they are all LHD :cry: . I found a few people that said they have them, but couldn't come up with the goods. I rang EVERY Subaru wrecker, parts place, workshop that I could think of.
It got to the point where I just decided to go ahead and modify my one, so I posted a request for a picture, so I could make it look as OEM as possible. A forum member kindly obliged.

The picture
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Note the scalloped depression next to the engine mount and steering.

Lo and behold, out of the blue, a bloke asked me if I wanted to buy one :shock:
After some monumental stuffing around with couriers (don't ask), I finally had it in my hands. I had to slot the engine mount holes slightly, but that's it.
As you can see, the up-pipe is a perfect fit.

Up-pipe clearance
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The crossmember will now be pulled out and sent to the powder-coaters for sandblasting and gloss black powder.

The engine is a nice fit, and is now back out for cleaning, and the rectification of some broken vacuum fittings, etc.
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More to follow!... :twisted:
Last edited by L-Rex on Sun Jun 30, 2019 1:37 pm, edited 1 time in total.
L-Rex

1992 L-Series Wagon, which used to be EA82 auto.

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El_Freddo
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Re: WRX EJ20 Turbo into L-Series Wagon

Post by El_Freddo » Thu Sep 20, 2018 8:54 pm

Ooh yeah!

Nice work there!

I'm wondering how you'll get the L series all disc brakes passed a brake test with that turbo engine?

Asking as I'm keen to do the same with my brumby - turbo setup with stock stud pattern for the ultimate sleeper setup. I too will be running a set of scorpions ;) It's pretty good that Phil got a reproduction run going :D

With the intercooler, did you consider the RS turbo WAIC setup? Or will you be tweeting the performance of the engine and require better intercooling than the WAIC can provide?

I'm looking forward to your updates on the build ;)

Keep up the good work!

Cheers

Bennie

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Re: WRX EJ20 Turbo into L-Series Wagon

Post by pitrack_1 » Fri Sep 21, 2018 12:13 am

Very nice, keep up the good work (and engineering).
Patrick
Ex- 2010 Forester Diesel

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L-Rex
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Re: WRX EJ20 Turbo into L-Series Wagon

Post by L-Rex » Fri Sep 21, 2018 7:29 am

El_Freddo wrote:Ooh yeah!

Nice work there!

I'm wondering how you'll get the L series all disc brakes passed a brake test with that turbo engine?

Asking as I'm keen to do the same with my brumby - turbo setup with stock stud pattern for the ultimate sleeper setup. I too will be running a set of scorpions ;) It's pretty good that Phil got a reproduction run going :D

With the intercooler, did you consider the RS turbo WAIC setup? Or will you be tweeting the performance of the engine and require better intercooling than the WAIC can provide?

I'm looking forward to your updates on the build ;)

Keep up the good work!

Cheers

Bennie

Cheers mate :)

I've seen a wagon passed with drums and an EJ20G, so I'm hoping there won't be issues.
IMHO, it's the suspension that is the limiting factor on these, especially the rear, so I don't feel the brakes will factor.

I may give it a remap later, so the FMIC gives me options.
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1992 L-Series Wagon, which used to be EA82 auto.

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Re: WRX EJ20 Turbo into L-Series Wagon

Post by AndrewT » Fri Sep 21, 2018 2:49 pm

I passed my RX Turbo sedan (converted the EJ20 turbo and matching awd gbox) over WA Pits with stock standard brakes (new rotors on the front, good condition ones at rear). But much easier I guess because of:
1) WA pits are very easy to pass
2) The car was already factory "turbo"

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Re: WRX EJ20 Turbo into L-Series Wagon

Post by L-Rex » Fri Sep 21, 2018 8:41 pm

AndrewT wrote:I passed my RX Turbo sedan (converted the EJ20 turbo and matching awd gbox) over WA Pits with stock standard brakes (new rotors on the front, good condition ones at rear). But much easier I guess because of:
1) WA pits are very easy to pass
2) The car was already factory "turbo"
My whole brake setup comes from a factory turbo Loyale GL-10 Wagon from the USA, so I will be pinning my hopes on that.

In all honesty, I have got cars through engineering that have proportionally less braking power than what this car will have, so I can't see them objecting.

I do wish that it was as easy to get stuff through in NSW as it is in WA.

Fingers crossed...
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1992 L-Series Wagon, which used to be EA82 auto.

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Re: WRX EJ20 Turbo into L-Series Wagon

Post by El_Freddo » Fri Sep 21, 2018 9:55 pm

@L-Rex - can you explain what you did to the diff?

I'm guessing you swapped out the diff centre to use the factory L diff stubs. Correct?

Cheers

Bennie

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Re: WRX EJ20 Turbo into L-Series Wagon

Post by L-Rex » Sat Sep 22, 2018 6:39 am

El_Freddo wrote:@L-Rex - can you explain what you did to the diff?

I'm guessing you swapped out the diff centre to use the factory L diff stubs. Correct?

Cheers

Bennie
Basically, it's a WRX diff, with the tophat out of the L-Series. I fitted the WRX crownwheel on to the L-series tophat.

This allows the use of the L-Series stubs, which in turn permits me to run standard L-Series CV joints.
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1992 L-Series Wagon, which used to be EA82 auto.

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Re: WRX EJ20 Turbo into L-Series Wagon

Post by El_Freddo » Sat Sep 22, 2018 7:23 pm

Ah so you call the diff centre the top hat - the bit with all the spider gears in it.

All makes sense now!

Cheers

Bennie

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Re: WRX EJ20 Turbo into L-Series Wagon

Post by wagonist » Mon Sep 24, 2018 10:56 pm

The first thing I'm going to suggest is to redo the brake lines for the rear. You've attached a hardline to a movable part (the caliper). The original line fitted to the backing plate of the drum which was fixed. It's not much of a movement, but over time that will flex and fatigue. Do you want your brake lines failing?

Considering you want a rear sway bar, it's a pity you didn't get the rear trailing arms when you bought the rear discs. They have an extra bracket above the axle which holds the end of the hard line where it converts to a flexible line. And seeing as every vehicle I've seen with rear discs also has a rear sway bar, those 4 brackets are also already welded on...

BTW, you're welcome for the engine bay pic. That bay has had an EJ20T sitting on that crossmember in the past with no clearance issues.

Also, if you want t think about doing a brake upgrade, you can now change the rear calipers to Honda versions. I've got mid 90s Integra calipers bolted into the Subaru carriers on the original discs. You need to muck around with handbrake cables, but means the front end is much more open to doing a larger conversion as you can change the calipers.

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Re: WRX EJ20 Turbo into L-Series Wagon

Post by L-Rex » Tue Sep 25, 2018 1:54 am

wagonist wrote:The first thing I'm going to suggest is to redo the brake lines for the rear. You've attached a hardline to a movable part (the caliper). The original line fitted to the backing plate of the drum which was fixed. It's not much of a movement, but over time that will flex and fatigue. Do you want your brake lines failing?
I was actually thinking about redoing the hard line with a pigtail in it. Currently looking at getting some short braided lines made.
wagonist wrote:Considering you want a rear sway bar, it's a pity you didn't get the rear trailing arms when you bought the rear discs. They have an extra bracket above the axle which holds the end of the hard line where it converts to a flexible line. And seeing as every vehicle I've seen with rear discs also has a rear sway bar, those 4 brackets are also already welded on...
Yes, unfortunately I didn't find anywhere that had the correct rear trailing arms. I will have to fabricate some brackets and weld them on..
wagonist wrote:BTW, you're welcome for the engine bay pic. That bay has had an EJ20T sitting on that crossmember in the past with no clearance issues.
That pic would have saved the day if I had gone down the path of modifying the crossmember. It's a good reference pic.

Are you still running the car with the turbo?
wagonist wrote:Also, if you want to think about doing a brake upgrade, you can now change the rear calipers to Honda versions. I've got mid 90s Integra calipers bolted into the Subaru carriers on the original discs. You need to muck around with handbrake cables, but means the front end is much more open to doing a larger conversion as you can change the calipers.
Cheers, I might look into this. It may be possible to use the entire hand brake assembly of the Honda, and make a custom mount on the tunnel. Certainly food for thought.

I'm sure this wagon will see ongoing development over the years.
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1992 L-Series Wagon, which used to be EA82 auto.

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Re: WRX EJ20 Turbo into L-Series Wagon

Post by L-Rex » Mon Oct 29, 2018 9:32 am

Got a bit more done over last weekend;

Shiny powdercoated engine crossmember;
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Worked out the fitting of the MR2 radiator;

Drilled some holes with a holesaw to suit the new rubber mounts (they got painted after this photo);
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Fitted the rubber mounts to the radiator. The MR2 has big mounting lugs, and I couldn't get any rubbers. Fortunately I had some shackle bush rubbers in my collection that fit;
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Th MR2 radiator is a 2-row, all alloy unit, and fits nicely;
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Top mounts are stainless angle, with a rubber bush isolating between the mount and the radiator support panel. Easy to take the radiator in and out.
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Installed motor and box;

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Motor sits just as well as before, but is now sitting at the right angle, as per the gearbox. Still have to fabricate a front and rear mount for the gearbox, but this should be relatively straightforward, as I will modify the existing parts, using a combo of L and WRX.

Gearshift setup will need to be shortened slightly, maintaining the original alignment of the rod!

Driveshafts will be a combo of WRX inners, on L outers.
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Re: WRX EJ20 Turbo into L-Series Wagon

Post by El_Freddo » Mon Oct 29, 2018 9:03 pm

Looking good L-rex!

What needed to be modified on the chassis rail to fit the EJ25 turbo? I thought all EJ turbo engines fitted in the L series without any issues??

The MR2 radiator is a neat fit! I’m using a Nissan pulsar n14 or 14 radiator - I can’t remember the exact model, but it’s the one with the angled filler neck in the correct position for the L series. The unit I have is dual core but has plastic end tanks :/

Cheers

Bennie

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Re: WRX EJ20 Turbo into L-Series Wagon

Post by L-Rex » Tue Oct 30, 2018 4:16 am

El_Freddo wrote:
Mon Oct 29, 2018 9:03 pm
What needed to be modified on the chassis rail to fit the EJ25 turbo? I thought all EJ turbo engines fitted in the L series without any issues??
No mods required, I just had the crossmember sandblasted and powdercoated, as it looked a bit shabby. Also helps to keep it clean when the rocker covers inevitably leak :lol:

Anything up to EJ22 will fit, but (going off my measurements) an EJ25 won't fit without rail mods.
El_Freddo wrote:
Mon Oct 29, 2018 9:03 pm
The MR2 radiator is a neat fit! I’m using a Nissan pulsar n14 or 14 radiator - I can’t remember the exact model, but it’s the one with the angled filler neck in the correct position for the L series. The unit I have is dual core but has plastic end tanks :/
Yeah, I looked at the Pulsar, but in the end I decided to not go with a filler neck, as the header tank on the engine becomes the highest point of the system. The MR2 is a great fit, and the all-alloy units are cheap enough.
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Re: WRX EJ20 Turbo into L-Series Wagon

Post by L-Rex » Fri Nov 16, 2018 6:05 am

Got a fair bit done over the last 2 weeks, the major part being the mounting cradle for the gearbox.

As I have a selection of parts available, I decided to go with a modified manual front crossmember, a modified rear automatic crossmember, and the EJ centre mount.

The manual front crossmember only requires 2 holes drilled to suit the front of the EJ centre mount, plus appropriately sized access holes, to allow a socket to fit in there.

The rear crossmember from the auto was a bit more involved, the below pic is an EJ rear (left) and the 2-piece EA auto (right).

Image

I cut the mounting section out of the EJ, and grafted it into the lower part of the EA. The top section of the EA was completely cut down, so all that remained were the 2 stubs that hold the rubber isolation blocks. Clearance is a big issue in this area, so there was a lot of measuring grinding and welding. Here is the finished front and rear mounts, ready to go for powdercoating.

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The finished cradle, assembled for fitting (it looks like there is a big cut-out on the RHS of the rear mount, this is just an artifact that popped up when resizing the pic. Probably from the shiny powdercoat).

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The front crossmember requires spacing down from the floorpan, so I machined up some spacers, and bought a couple of longer, high-tensile bolts to fit them up. To keep the rubber isolation mounts working, I flipped them so that the large cup washer mounts on the spacer.

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Installed cradle;

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The dump pipe fits up perfectly to the engine, and the factory mounts on the gearbox, with plenty of clearance on the cradle;

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The next trick was the gearshift linkage and mounting rod. These are too long to fit the EA, and require shortening. The mounting rod mounts in a rubber block, which I trimmed down, flipped over, and mounted to the EA tunnel. I'm not 100% happy with this setup, and will probably end up making a custom mount for this. There isn't much clearance in this area, and millimetres count.

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The gearshift rods need to be shortened by 25mm. Don't forget to include the thickness of the cutoff wheel when doing your calculation! Before cutting, scribe a line down the length of the shaft to ensure that the orientation doesn't change when you weld them back together. As you can also see in this picture, the front section of tailshaft need to be lengthened. The rear section remains at standard length. This is the tailshaft from an automatic EA, and I have a manual one sitting in a car which may be the correct length. Have to do some measuring before I commit to having this one modified.

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Started playing around with the shifter console. The manual one fits if you rotate it 180*, but has the potential to pop the box out of second gear. I ended up trimming down an auto console, and will make up a plate to fit the shifter boot onto. Interestingly, I was concerned that the gearshift was going to be too low, however, the EA gear knob screws onto the selector, and brings it to the perfect height. It even fits into the EJ vinyl boot! I am constantly surprised how much stuff fits between the models.

Image
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Re: WRX EJ20 Turbo into L-Series Wagon

Post by El_Freddo » Sat Nov 17, 2018 8:15 am

👍 Good work once again!

The manual tail shaft front piece will be too long IIRC.

You will need a custom piece in here for sure ;)

Cheers

Bennie

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Re: WRX EJ20 Turbo into L-Series Wagon

Post by L-Rex » Sat Nov 17, 2018 9:20 am

El_Freddo wrote:
Sat Nov 17, 2018 8:15 am
👍 Good work once again!

The manual tail shaft front piece will be too long IIRC.

You will need a custom piece in here for sure ;)
Thanks for the info, save me pulling the shaft out 8)
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Re: WRX EJ20 Turbo into L-Series Wagon

Post by AndrewT » Mon Nov 19, 2018 12:08 pm

You'll need the front section of your L series tailshaft shortened by about 70mm at a tailshaft specialist workshop.
If you can afford it, recommend getting the uni joints all replaced with proper greasable ones. The last one I had done, they basically made me an entire brand new tailshaft and only kept the centre bearing. My uni joints are now Holden ones. The same ones this place uses for tailshaft they make in drag racing applications. There are some pics of it in my Monsterwagon 2.0 build thread.

Great work on the gearbox crossmembers, that's pretty much exactly how I did my last one, but you spent more time making it look a lot nicer!

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Re: WRX EJ20 Turbo into L-Series Wagon

Post by wagonist » Wed Nov 21, 2018 8:42 pm

I've neveer seen anyone use 3 factory pieces for the gearbox crossmember. Looks really neat!

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Joined: Tue Sep 18, 2018 6:03 am
Location: Wollongong, NSW.

Re: WRX EJ20 Turbo into L-Series Wagon

Post by L-Rex » Sat Nov 24, 2018 11:43 am

AndrewT wrote:
Mon Nov 19, 2018 12:08 pm
You'll need the front section of your L series tailshaft shortened by about 70mm at a tailshaft specialist workshop.
If you can afford it, recommend getting the uni joints all replaced with proper greasable ones. The last one I had done, they basically made me an entire brand new tailshaft and only kept the centre bearing. My uni joints are now Holden ones. The same ones this place uses for tailshaft they make in drag racing applications. There are some pics of it in my Monsterwagon 2.0 build thread.
Yeah, Once I'd measured the manual one, this was the round figure I came to. Since it's a full rebuild, and the auto one isn't mounted, I'll take the auto one in and have it lengthened and balanced, with new universals. I also want them to reduce the OD on the tube at the front section, which will give me a better option with the gearshift mount. I made a mounting bracket up, which utilises the factory stud on the tunnel, plus a bolt. They can knock the OD down, but go up in the wall thickness to compensate. I'm a bit anal about my pinky-width clearance on things :lol:
AndrewT wrote:
Mon Nov 19, 2018 12:08 pm
Great work on the gearbox crossmembers, that's pretty much exactly how I did my last one, but you spent more time making it look a lot nicer!
Cheers. It took a fair bit of measuring, tacking and trial fitting, but I was pretty happy with the result.
L-Rex

1992 L-Series Wagon, which used to be EA82 auto.

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