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I'll get those pics right yet. Heres another of the saab radiator in place. The rubber grommets from the old l series rad fit onto the dowels on the bottom of this rad also. I may be lucky to get one of the original holes for the lower dowels to work, but it won't be difficult to drill two if its nessecary for best location.
New holes have to be drilled for the top fixing points on the rad when I have it exactly where I want it
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Looks good in there but you really need to work on editing those pics before posting

or at least apologise like everyone else does !

Gees Paul, you usually welcome people not knock their photographic skills !

El_Freddo wrote:^^ Really? Never knew this - never looked at those bands before to be honest!

Cheers

Bennie

Disco was always discussing these bands to ID things, info is in factory manuals

steptoe wrote:Gees Paul, you usually welcome people not knock their photographic skills !

Not knocking.. just helpful suggestions

steptoe wrote:Disco was always discussing these bands to ID things, info is in factory manuals

Got any links or info on this?

yobhgareb wrote:I disassembled the ej dual range trans today , and have both bare front casings in the back of my dad's jeep so he can get them steam hosed tomorrow when I'm at work.
I think I went about it an awkward way, and would like some advice from someone who has done the reassemble if possible.
First off , I removed all bolts holding the front two case halves together, then undid all the bolts holding the front halves to the middle section. Then I got the bonds cracked on the front casings, and got a gap to open between them and also a gap between front and middle sections. It was through this middle gap that I could see two bolts holding the gear shafts to one of the front half casings. I managed to get these undone with a twelve spanner, but realise there has to be an easier way that involves less manoeuvring of the trans. My fear is damaging or displacing some of the components on my ea box.

It's pretty simple - remove the top plate on the rear housing section, find the 10mm bolt on the selector shaft and loosen it off so the selector shaft can move freely with that retainer arm being independent.

Then remove the rear housing bolts, the rear housing should move off easily after some gentle persuasion. Then attend to the bearing bolts holding the two cases together internally, then remove the external bolts to split the case including the input shaft bearing bolts - make sure you've removed the arm from the low range lever too. Have the dip stick side of the gearbox up to split the cases, this will allow the diff to remain in the other housing and make it easier/lighter to remove the half case.

To put it back together you'll need some torque specs for each bolt. Working out the diff backlash and preload is worth going to a builder for. With my first build I winged it and all was good. Second one was done by a guy who knew how to adjust the diff settings so they're correct.

yobhgareb wrote:I'll get those pics right yet. Heres another of the saab radiator in place. The rubber grommets from the old l series rad fit onto the dowels on the bottom of this rad also. I may be lucky to get one of the original holes for the lower dowels to work, but it won't be difficult to drill two if its nessecary for best location.
New holes have to be drilled for the top fixing points on the rad when I have it exactly where I want it
[ATTACH]4379[/ATTACH]

That's an awesome fit - the radiator outlets are 40mm as well? And this came from a 2 litre turbo saab correct?

steptoe wrote:Disco was always discussing these bands to ID things, info is in factory manuals

I need to get some factory manuals - but then again, I reckon I'm doing alright so far

Cheers

Bennie

Thanks for the transmission advice Bennie. I am having it done by a builder,
I might try it myself in the future.
Pretty chuffed with the radiator myself, took a few evenings of trawling
through ebay looking at all the rads for sale and reading dimensions
before I chose this one. It is indeed from a saab 900 turbo , the model
that came out in 1985.

The outlets are the same as ea82 radiator.

yobhgareb wrote:Thanks for the transmission advice Bennie.

No worries

yobhgareb wrote:Pretty chuffed with the radiator myself, took a few evenings of trawling...It is indeed from a saab 900 turbo , the model
that came out in 1985.

Sweet.

yobhgareb wrote:The outlets are the same as ea82 radiator.

Bummer - but might look into it as an option too. Looks like I might have a few options to follow now

Cheers

Bennie

eventually got my trans back last weekend , so work can continue now. I pulled the clutch and flywheel off last night to replace rear crank seal. Dry as a bone back there , but im taking no chances. Got old seal out handy enough, opened my new one that came in the post, only to find its bent outa shape and has a ding in it. . Got a new seal today again.
im gonna use the ea82 alternator , as the loom for the ej alt didn't come on the engine. It fits in place perfect, and the ej pully fits with minor fettling. Hopefully it'll do the job.

Stick to the EJ alternator.
The power output ability is worth it rather than cutting corners.
Someone will correct me if i am talking crap.

You will need to one wire on the EJ alternator to ignition on only, otherwise it will always be on and drain the battery.

showthread.php?t=14943

showthread.php?t=3385&

If you can use the Alternator you have there is a spacer between the pulley and the body of the alternator that will need to be lathed.

TOONGA

TOONGA wrote:You will need to one wire on the EJ alternator to ignition on only, otherwise it will always be on and drain the battery.

showthread.php?t=14943

showthread.php?t=3385&

If you can use the Alternator you have there is a spacer between the pulley and the body of the alternator that will need to be lathed.

TOONGA

The pulley from my ej alternator doesn't fit on ea alt shaft. So it will need redrilled to fit. Nothings easy . I will work something out this weekend , I have found a ej alt loom at a local breaker, so just got to lift it.
My ej18 came from a fwd , so gonna grab an awd flywheel when im there too.
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Just dropped the engine in to see how it fits. I believe I'll still get my spare wheel in too:D

Being that you're running a carb'd EJ setup I reckon the stock EA82 alternator will be more than capable of the job.

If it were an EFI EJ conversion I'd be pushing you to upgrade the alternator to the EJ unit

Cheers

Bennie

+1 for what Bennie said. Your car/engine is not requiring extra amps

Thanks guys. Ive gone with the ej alternator spliced into the l series loom. Im havin good problems getting a spark. The coil is now mounted on the drivers side of the car, opposite to when the ea82 was in there, so ive lengthened the wires for coil and disty to reach. Ive fitted new disty cap, plugs and leads and even tried the coil from the l series engine,(which is identical visually and has same numbers on) but cant get a spark. It's getting frustrating to say the least. Anyone got any ideas?:???:
There is a plug on the ea82 carby engine with 5 wires connecting into the car loom. The ej18 carb has a five wire engine plug as well, but it was a different shape, so ive connected the ej engine to the ea loom with a new 5 wire plug. Ive wired the plug connecting wires of the same colour. its a chance to take but I couldn't find any info on the wires uses. I don't think this will affect spark or not?

If you can, do a visual comparison of the wiring in each dizzy to double check that they go to the same place/do the same thing between the two dizzies.

Also check your fuses, you could have blown one for some reason... stranger things have happened!

Cheers

Bennie

Really, You couldn't trace 5 wires?
It's been 15 years since I had a carb version
but at least 2 are coolant temp & oil pressure

showthread.php?t=7011

EJ 1992 FSM Section 6.1 - Engine Electrical System

compare with

Section 6.1 - Engine Electrical System of the EA 82 FSM in the old section here http://jdmfsm.info/Auto/Japan/Subaru.

For the wiring

TOONGA