advice on EJ20T Brumby exhaust

SUBIIE · Post by **SUBIIE** » Sun Oct 25, 2009 2:10 pm

Hi Team,

Things have slowed on the project due to house renovations, so I have only just kicked off again.

project = wrx GC8 1996 in Brumby

Can anyone who has done this conversion fill me in on what exhaust they fitted?

I am tempted to buy a standard WRX exhaust off ebay or another forum and then have an exhaust shop fit it, but i am not sure if i should simply bite the bullet and get an aftermarket higher flow exhaust.

What is going to be the best (and make reasonable economic sense) option?

Cheers

Gannon · Post by **Gannon** » Sun Oct 25, 2009 2:24 pm

If you are running standard boost, and wanna do it cheap, a modified 2nd hand WRX exhaust is prolly your best bet.

If you wanna spend a little extra, get a 2.25" or 2.5" from the dump pipe Cat back, you will gain a deeper boxer rumble plus a little more power response

AndrewT · Post by **AndrewT** » Sun Oct 25, 2009 10:04 pm

Actually...your average exhaust shop will probably tell you it will be cheaper to just get them to fit new pipes rather than ass around trying to modify things to fit. Using a secondhand wrx exhaust sounds like a good money saver but it's false economy because of the sheer amount of mod work required. I had the exact same idea (stole my buddy's MY99 wrx exhaust when he upgraded) but yeh, I found out the above.

Use the WRX dump pipe with inbuilt CAT - this should fit unmodified complete with all it's heat shielding. Then get them to make up new pipes to fit down to the rear muffler.
2.5" or even 2.25" will be plenty, spring for mandrel bends if you can afford it, but they aren't really necessary unless your planning on fitting a big turbo and running high boost etc. The stock exhaust is only 2.25" anyways.

They may have trouble fitting a WRX rear muffler (they are really quite big, heavy too), so you'll probably have to go with whatever "sports" or "high-flow" oval style muffler the shop offers.
Steer clear of canons if you have any taste haha.

discopotato03 · Post by **discopotato03** » Mon Oct 26, 2009 9:03 am

Correct , the rear muffler won't physically fit in an L Series so don't buy one thinking it will .
I bought the best of the std STI rear ones and if anyone wants one let me know .

The people who rally in production classes always find that a big pipe all the way to the rear doesn't work , it makes more noise and less torque so pointless if functionality is your thing . They normally start with a specially made sectioned dump pipe and reduce to about 2 1/2 I think in the middle and again to a metric 2 1/4" down the back .
It works because as exhaust gas moves further along the exhaust system it sheds a LOT of heat , as it contracts or shrinks if you like it slows down which you don't want . The ideal situation is to keep the velocity and momentum in the gas and reducing the tube size is how you do it .
This is the reason why most of the cap on backwards WRX pilots out there make lots of noise and not as much torque as they could if they hadn't just fitted your typical Rex drainpipe .

Big (enough) at the front with a big enough cat at the front and a couple of stages of reduced sized tube and mufflers is what makes for good performance without the juvenile flatulence four proximity announcement .

Quiet power rules .

If you want it to work properly like the manufacturers do ...

Outback bloke · Post by **Outback bloke** » Mon Oct 26, 2009 9:39 am

If you want to keep your sway bar you will need to get a dump pipe made. 2.5 inch is enough but get it done with mandrels. Then to a high flow cat and a crush bend 2.5 system from there back. To save a little money get hold an old standard dump pipe (free) and cut the turbo flange from it and take it with you to the exhaust shop.

It is going to cost you a little more than a second hand wrx system but it will fit with no stuffing around.

wrxer · Post by **wrxer** » Mon Oct 26, 2009 10:20 am

i doin this now, and i can tell you the wrx dump pipe doesnt fit, the cat hits on floor pan near the clutch pedal.
i got a 3" dump pipe similar to the ones available from ebay at steves rod shop, but mine has the seperate screamer pipe which hits on steering column. the bell mouth ones from steves may fit straight past.

note i need to modify screamer, and my clutch cylinder is mounted lower than others have

AndrewT · Post by **AndrewT** » Mon Oct 26, 2009 11:14 am

Appologies, I was thinking L series where the dump pipe fits unmodified.

SUBIIE · Post by **SUBIIE** » Thu Oct 29, 2009 4:56 pm

Outback bloke wrote:If you want to keep your sway bar you will need to get a dump pipe made. 2.5 inch is enough but get it done with mandrels. Then to a high flow cat and a crush bend 2.5 system from there back. To save a little money get hold an old standard dump pipe (free) and cut the turbo flange from it and take it with you to the exhaust shop.

It is going to cost you a little more than a second hand wrx system but it will fit with no stuffing around.

And how much am I expecting to pay for a exhaust like that? $1000!

I am allright at fabbing stuff up but am a complete novice when it comes to exhausts, I wouldn't have the slightest idea. All I now is I dont want to be that dickhead with his hat backwards making a whole lot of noise. The idea of having no scoop on the bonnet and a sweet boxer really appeals to me.

Sleepers forever!

Morcs · Post by **Morcs** » Sun Nov 08, 2009 11:48 pm

My brumby runs a 3inch all the way mandrel bent item with two 3 inch hot dogs both are about 12 inches long and oval style muffler offset straight through on the rear. I spent a lot of time getting a 3 inch dump pipe (90 bend then into a 3 inch flex) to fit into the turbo flange essentially squashing it to fit. Then heat wrapped the Master cylinder booster and dump pipe. I had just a 2.5 dump before when i went to the 3 inch it made a considerable difference in performance for spool up time on the turbo (A lot more responsive with the vf22).

My Brumby has realy nice deep boxer warble at idle not very loud (boomy) but as you get up it for the rent it has that nice not boomy warble with very little resonance you sometimes get with sports exhausts at highway speeds.

Invest in some heat shielding around the turbo boiling the old brake fluid is not much fun after some long hard acceleration runs (nice twisty bit of road).
Kind of thankful for the old hand brake on the front end of the brumby that time.

My local exhaust shop was only charging around $14 for a turbo flange, something always nice a about a using new stuff rather then retro fitting something old that maybe buckled from cutting welding etc

SUBIIE · Post by **SUBIIE** » Wed Nov 11, 2009 7:57 pm

Thanks mate,

That still didn't answer how much it is going to cost?

any ideas?