Help Please with CVs

Any thing and every thing ever asked about how to do an EJ conversion to an L series and MY. Includes Brumby and Coupe.
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Scoobie Doobie
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Help Please with CVs

Post by Scoobie Doobie » Wed Dec 15, 2010 5:20 pm

Hey guys,

been a member for a while but havent really contributed much, learning a lot on the fly, love subarus and am tackling an ej conversion myself at the moment but i've come to a bit of a halt with the front CVs. i bought the crossbred brake kit from jeff earlier in the year, installed it no worries apart from the front CVs. the running gear in the MY is from a 92 liberty and im running both the engine and gearbox. in relation to my CV problem, i was under the impression that given that the front steering knuckles were from the liberty and that i'm running the liberty box the liberty CVs would fit ok, but as it turns out they're too long. i spoke to bloke who does CV joints locally and he suggested keeping the liberty inner and outer CVs and changing over the shaft to the one from the MY. but after pulling the MY CVs apart he said he discovered that the MY had 22 splines and the EJ one had 23. my understanding is that the 22 and 23 refers to the outer parts of the CVs and not the splines on the actual shaft. Is that correct? he should just be able to take the inner and outer CVs of the the liberty assembly and put them on the MY shaft, what has everyone else thats kept the ej box and installed jeffs kit done?

i'd really appreciate any assistance:confused:

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Post by El_Freddo » Wed Dec 15, 2010 10:03 pm

Have you tried to contact Jeff about this? I'm sure he would have come across this problem and know of at least one solution to the problem!


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Post by 78sti » Wed Dec 15, 2010 10:20 pm

2wd my shafts are your friend the liberty joints should fit on that. But they may be to short as the liberty hubs moves the cv joint closer to the hub. You may want l series shafts?

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Post by discopotato03 » Thu Dec 16, 2010 8:41 am

Yes thats right XT6/Imp/Lib CVs are shorter than MY or L series CVs . The hub offset it totally different and it shows up distinctly in XT6's . BTW Vortexes were built on the L Series platform (and actually L Series production Line) . XT4's , EA82 powered Vortexes , have the same track as the XT6's but they (XT6) use en early variation of the Liberty/Legacy front strut and knuckle . So because the CV joint is shorter the axle shaft is longer and unique and rare/desirable if you want the 5 stud conversion in an L Series . People get away with early Lib axles in L's but its not really a factory fit because the DOJ's don't really have enough plunge depth it the engine/trans moves much laterally on those old soft rubber mounts . BTW XT6's use the same DOJ's as RX Turbo L's .

The progression of axle shaft lengths goes MY,L,XT6,1st gen Lib so ideally if going to the later knuckle/hub assembly you should try to go up one in front axle length . Also ideally you should try to adapt to the 25 spline axles because the joints have the largest and strongest races/cages/bearings so more load bearing area and in theory longer life/greatest strength .
From memory there is an L series DOJ thats 23 spline on the gearbox (inner) side and 25 spline on the outer or axle side and you could use RX turbo 25 spline front shafts and FrWD Lib 25 spline CV's . The FrWD Libs used the larger diameter 25 spline front axles because they didn't have rear wheel drive to spread the drive loads over .
In my 87 factory WSM it shows these complete shafts as auto 4WD L and called 95AC23 and all you'd have different is the Lib 25 spline CV joint .
The only possibly hard bit to get would be the 23 spline DOJ inner race section .

A .

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Post by mattl200 » Sun Feb 06, 2011 10:01 pm

another option is n13/14 pulser long shafts and have them shortend

one type has the same spline (shaft to joint) as early liberty cv joints
- 92 brumby, ej22, MT5AWD, lseries low range, centre diff lock, glf5 dash, 5 stud conversion
lifted 3" front 2" rear all rolling round on 27" khumo Kl71's
more in progress ie:adaptronic ecu and sc14 supercharger

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Post by SUBIIE » Thu Oct 13, 2016 10:50 am

Hi team,
Surely we have a conclusive answer to this and someone has done this.

I have a brumby with 95 wrx box and ********* brake setup with wrx hubs.

It was 5 years ago that i completed my conversion and i have been using it as an occasional driver. Very quickly i developed a loud knocking noise from a drive shaft. The shafts (which i should have noticed when i put them in are too short) fell off the end of the gearbox stub spline.

What shaft did i use? I cant remember, but i need to know what shaft will suit to pass rego.

Any offers of help accepted?
1992 'Annivesary' Subaru Brumby, amp-6x9"'s-kevlar 6"'s-tweeters, power windows, and a 1995 WRX EJ20t engine finally installed, engineered and blue slipped. Wow, try and catch me up the mountain!
The horse feed car; 1988 subaru brumby, targa top, and in need of some tlc.

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Post by dfoyl » Sun Feb 12, 2017 12:18 pm

My setup is 2wd MY 22 spline inner CV and early Lib (also 2wd?) 22 spline outer CV. The outers can be bought new from Hardy Spicer. But I am running a L-series box, not a WRX box.
1989 Brumby - Shiny new red paint, stroked EJ20 phase 2 SOHC with Darton sleeves bored to EJ22, Wiseco high-compression pistons, Delta 2000 grind cams , EJ/XT6 5 stud with WRX 4/2 pots, 5-speed, 86 GTS seats and so much more.
Contact me for reproduction XT6 hubs...and EA82 rear discs.

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Re: Help Please with CVs

Post by adstrac » Sun Nov 08, 2020 10:28 pm

I have found 1 solution to this conundrum, but it will set you back $1100. Bosnjak engineering in Smeaton Grange will machine you up a pair of custom drive shafts to suits your DOJ and outer WRX CV’s. I am yet to do this, I am running an EJ20G in a MY with the EJ 5 speed and WRX knuckle/hub combination. You also need to supply both inner and outer CV’s and boots.

Now, he told me that all the measurements will be needed to be taken by me and he will take no responsibility if I give him 1mm out and the setup fails. He also said that after the shafts are machined they are sent for hardening to make sure they don’t sheer first dump of the clutch. Hope this helps.

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