carbed ej18 into my carbed l series

YouTube · Post by **El_Freddo** » Thu Jan 30, 2014 4:33 pm

For an engine with a service history it's pretty bloody filthy!!

Before you drop that beast into your L series make sure you put a cam belt kit with new oil seals and a new water pump in there. Do the rear main seal while you're at it!

I can't tell you how much time and effort it will save you with a new water pump - I'm learning this lesson a second time around at the moment

Cheers

Bennie

yobhgareb · Post by **yobhgareb** » Fri Jan 31, 2014 4:53 am

El_Freddo wrote:For an engine with a service history it's pretty bloody filthy!!

Before you drop that beast into your L series make sure you put a cam belt kit with new oil seals and a new water pump in there. Do the rear main seal while you're at it!

I can't tell you how much time and effort it will save you with a new water pump - I'm learning this lesson a second time around at the moment

Cheers

Bennie

Thanks for the advice. The engine does look dirty alright lol ! This old subaru dealer has a few of these old legacys and l series that he sold new, and then took back as trade ins against new subbies a few years later. He just held onto them all these years, which is great for me now

I bought a new copper saab 900 radiator, which is getting a cap soldered onto the passenger side end tank at the minute.

yobhgareb · Post by **yobhgareb** » Sat Feb 01, 2014 6:50 am

I collected my radiator today , getting me another step closer to having all the parts I need. found an early dual range ej box , which will hopefully be in my possession within the next two weeks , then its party time !!

YouTube · Post by **El_Freddo** » Wed Feb 05, 2014 9:31 pm

yobhgareb wrote:I collected my radiator today , getting me another step closer to having all the parts I need.

[imghttp://www.ausubaru.com.au/attachment.php?atta ... 1391201074[/img]

What are the specs on that radiator - a direct drop in solution? What size are the outlets on the radiator? And finally, what material is the radiator made of - all alloy, all copper or one with plastic end tanks?

I'm curious.

Cheers

Bennie

yobhgareb · Post by **yobhgareb** » Thu Feb 06, 2014 5:18 am

The radiator is for a 1978-1985 saab 900 turbo 2.0 . It's core measures 595mm x 320mm x 40mm. It is made of copper with copper end tanks , which allowed me to get a filler soldered onto the passenger side tank. (the saab uses a remote filler tank) As for the outlets, they are the same as ea82 radiator.
It will fit with minor fettling, new holes will be drilled for the bottom spigots to sit into, and I can get one of the top subbie bolts to line with a saab fixing point. I purchased an adapter for the temp sensor on ebay, which will house the smaller subaru sensor into the larger hole for the saab one.
I chose this radiator after a lot of searching , and at £140 including fitting the filler and cap, I was happy enough.
The old L is still running me to work at the moment, but once I start, I will post some pics of the saab radiator in place. Thanks.

RSR 555 · Post by **RSR 555** » Tue Feb 11, 2014 11:34 pm

yobhgareb wrote:I have a few questions I need some help with. First off, would I be able to use the front casing of the fwd ej tranny on my ea82 dual range box? and also , is there any issues to watch for in this carb for carb swap?

You can swap the front casings over as long as you use the EJ Dual Range front halves, other wise the easier and cheaper option is to use an adaptor plate.

Oh issues with engine swap.. where do I start.. better off sell me that engine

But seriously I think it's easier to power-up your EA82 with a weber unless you are handing with the tools and happy to try stuff out. The EJ is one of the best conversions but not sure if the Carby EJ is much more over the EA82 carby motor.

yobhgareb · Post by **yobhgareb** » Wed Feb 12, 2014 4:15 am

RSR 555 wrote:You can swap the front casings over as long as you use the EJ Dual Range front halves, other wise the easier and cheaper option is to use an adaptor plate.

Oh issues with engine swap.. where do I start.. better off sell me that engine

But seriously I think it's easier to power-up your EA82 with a weber unless you are handing with the tools and happy to try stuff out. The EJ is one of the best conversions but not sure if the Carby EJ is much more over the EA82 carby motor.

I have my head around it now, its very simple when the ej is there beside the l series for comparison. The 18 carbed ej is listed at 103 bhp, its not much of a power increase, but a guy has to start somewhere:-). Im just hoping to gain experience with this swap.

RSR 555 · Post by **RSR 555** » Wed Feb 12, 2014 10:48 am

Cool. Can't wait to see it all up and running. Remember we really love pics

While I'm thinking of it, is there many of these engines available in Ireland? I'd be interested in buying some of the engine parts.

yobhgareb · Post by **yobhgareb** » Sat Feb 15, 2014 3:54 am

RSR 555 wrote:Cool. Can't wait to see it all up and running. Remember we really love pics

While I'm thinking of it, is there many of these engines available in Ireland? I'd be interested in buying some of the engine parts.

Cant wait myself. I'm going to lift a dual range ej trans this weekend , so thats all the main parts ready.
you dont see many of these engines here. The guy I got this one of has another, but he is quite a journey away. If I ever stumble on one I will post it up here.

yobhgareb · Post by **yobhgareb** » Mon Feb 24, 2014 3:48 am

I removed the ea82 engine and gearbox today.
[ATTACH]4362[/ATTACH]
Here is the old ea82 unit in the middle, with the ej dual range in front, and the carbed ej18 in the back ground.

[ATTACH]4363[/ATTACH]

I noticed my ea82 dual range has 25 spline stubs , the same as the ej dual range box I got for
the casing. The fwd ej box that came attached to my carb engine has 23 spline stubs.
The distributer and coil are on the opposite side on the ej engine, so I have to extend the wiring for the loom to reach to the drivers side of the car. The saab radiator has the temp sensor on the other side, so the wiring has to be lengthened again.
Im going to spend the next few evenings giving the engine bay a good clean and touch up some surface rust.

RSR 555 · Post by **RSR 555** » Tue Feb 25, 2014 11:22 pm

Was the EA82 dual range box from an EFI model?

Also.. very hard to see your pictures.. they are very small (or is it just me?)

yobhgareb · Post by **yobhgareb** » Wed Feb 26, 2014 5:14 am

The dual range was the original from my 1986 carb l series. It will be handy for axles being a 25 spline. I noticed the axle shafts are thicker than 23 spline items ive seen pics of. I have a new genuine front axle I bought for a non turbo xt. it has the same inner and outer spline count, but a thinner shaft.
[ATTACH]4365[/ATTACH]

We must have got turbo xt axles in the front of the 4wd l series over here:D

yobhgareb · Post by **yobhgareb** » Wed Feb 26, 2014 5:16 am

Also.. very hard to see your pictures.. they are very small (or is it just me?)[/QUOTE]

sorry, I was cropping the pics cos I had trouble uploading full size

RSR 555 · Post by **RSR 555** » Thu Feb 27, 2014 9:04 am

From what I've found in Aus over the years it that...

1 band on the shaft = 2WD
2 band on the shaft = PT4WD
3 band on the shaft = EFI (incl turbo) and FT4WD

But this could be different around the world.

BTW.. this last picture looks a good size

YouTube · Post by **El_Freddo** » Thu Feb 27, 2014 8:25 pm

^^ Really? Never knew this - never looked at those bands before to be honest!

Cheers

Bennie

RSR 555 · Post by **RSR 555** » Thu Feb 27, 2014 9:20 pm

El_Freddo wrote:^^ Really? Never knew this - never looked at those bands before to be honest!

Cheers

Bennie

This is only what I've noticed (on MY and L.Series) over the time I stripped them down in the wrecking yard in Japan and Aus. but I never seen any documents from FHI to support this.

The later EJ ranges seemed to use a similar pattern but the 2WD shafts were much thicker than the AWD ones.

yobhgareb · Post by **yobhgareb** » Mon Mar 03, 2014 8:09 am

I disassembled the ej dual range trans today , and have both bare front casings in the back of my dad's jeep so he can get them steam hosed tomorrow when I'm at work.
I think I went about it an awkward way, and would like some advice from someone who has done the reassemble if possible.
First off , I removed all bolts holding the front two case halves together, then undid all the bolts holding the front halves to the middle section. Then I got the bonds cracked on the front casings, and got a gap to open between them and also a gap between front and middle sections. It was through this middle gap that I could see two bolts holding the gear shafts to one of the front half casings. I managed to get these undone with a twelve spanner, but realise there has to be an easier way that involves less manoeuvring of the trans. My fear is damaging or displacing some of the components on my ea box.
I also came across the dedent ball bearings holding the selector rods in place, should these possibly be removed first off before doing any other dissambely of the trans? I have searched this evening and can find nothing really satisfyingly informative. Any help or links would be greatly appreciated guys.

RSR 555 · Post by **RSR 555** » Sun Mar 09, 2014 11:14 pm

yobhgareb wrote:First off , I removed all bolts holding the front two case halves together, then undid all the bolts holding the front halves to the middle section. Then I got the bonds cracked on the front casings, and got a gap to open between them and also a gap between front and middle sections. It was through this middle gap that I could see two bolts holding the gear shafts to one of the front half casings. I managed to get these undone with a twelve spanner, but realise there has to be an easier way that involves less manoeuvring of the trans. My fear is damaging or displacing some of the components on my ea box.

You should really grab a copy of the workshop manual if you've never pulled one apart before but the best way to dismantle these boxes is to start from the rear and take one section off at a time, then you should be left with the 2 front halves, which can be split by laying down on the LH side and lifting off the RH side. This should leave the gear sets complete and you can pull out them out off the selector forks.

yobhgareb wrote:I also came across the dedent ball bearings holding the selector rods in place, should these possibly be removed first off before doing any other dissambely of the trans? I have searched this evening and can find nothing really satisfyingly informative. Any help or links would be greatly appreciated guys.

You shouldn't need to pull out the selector rods, so the detent balls can stay in, unless you are planning to change the selector forks.

yobhgareb · Post by **yobhgareb** » Mon Mar 10, 2014 12:03 am

Thanks for the help RSR 555 , but I decided to get a local guy to do the rebuild for me. I can watch him, so it will be a good experience. I just don't want to ruin my 52k mile ea trans, getting another would be impossible here.
But im still progressing in other ares of the build. Ive just fitted a new timing belt kit today, and have cleaned the engine bay up. Heres the engine with new belt and bearings

RSR 555 · Post by **RSR 555** » Mon Mar 10, 2014 12:39 am

Looking good.. just about snapped my neck trying to look at the pic though