RS wagon...

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Bantum
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Post by Bantum » Mon Oct 17, 2016 3:53 am

Awesome ride, jealous ... :p

Got some T10 / T5 LEDs the other day From AliExpress - yet to fit them though ... :(

See here : showthread.php?t=22456&page=6


Cheers, Bantum ...

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El_Freddo
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Post by El_Freddo » Mon Oct 17, 2016 8:19 pm

Bantum wrote:Awesome ride, jealous ... :p
No need to be jealous Bantum - all it does is get pushed in and out of the shed depending on what I need to do to it (or what I need to access at the back of the shed!).

Yeah I'm not keen on LEDs as I don't want the typical LED hot and cold patches in the illumination of the cluster - and I'd like to retain the dimmer function too.

I've since found out via partsouq factory parts manual break down pics and lists that there are three globes used:

T10
T6.5
T5 - 1.4W

I can't remember the wattage of the T10 and T6.5 globes as I can't find my list :(
I'll update when I find the details/look them up again on the computer.

And I should've said earlier to Timmo - totally would love to cruise together once this is sorted!

I'm also hoping to do a couple of touring runs with Venom and his turbo Foz (don't know the model/designation). Grampians/Great Ocean Road, Tambo Valley/Mitta Mitta rd/Falls creek/Mt Hotham and back again are all on the cards :twisted:

Cheers

Bennie
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Gazza01
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Post by Gazza01 » Tue Oct 18, 2016 6:51 am

Seen a few of those wagons go through Pickles Auction Brisbane but so many with NO Damage are shown as Stat.Writeoffs water damage. WTF water damage hows that make a car unroadworthy. Sure the motor might be cactus but a good hose down and a dry out and maybe a motor over haul would surely sort out all that. Sad to see so many good vehicles with NO Damage going to auction as Stat Writeoffs and of course ALL the parts are later sold in the wrecking yards seems like total madness time insurance companies started looking at whats going on with all these so called Stat Writeoff or Ripoffs. And of course if the cars over 15yrs alls ok it comes to Auction as WOVR N/A so away u go drive the thing away get RWC and rego and ure on the road in Qld.

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Captain Obvious
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Post by Captain Obvious » Tue Oct 18, 2016 5:18 pm

I think you may find the boost solenoid has been bypassed so it doesn't hit boost cut? if so add a boost tee and set at desired PSI. also i thought the TD05 was a low boost turbo, maybe im thinking a the TD04, think these stock were vf10 or 12's

Cheers
Bryan
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The 4x4: 2004 Nissan Navara d22 ZD30 dual cab.
The Wifes car: 2005 SG9 Facelift forester 2.5l auto XS

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Post by El_Freddo » Tue Oct 18, 2016 9:21 pm

Vf12 stock for manual, VF10 stock for auto CO ;)

I've been told the TD05 is the high rev (~3000rpm comes on boost) unit and the TD04 is lower in the rev range but runs out of puff higher up. Ultimately I'd love a turbo that comes in from 2500rpm, boosts high into the rev range for those time you just want to go there, but I'd also want it to stay off boost when cruising at 100 or 110kmph ;)

We'll see what happens. No moneys for extra turbo on the bench after the rebuild of the engine!!

Cheers

Bennie
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Post by Donkeytits1 » Fri Oct 28, 2016 7:43 pm

With reference to the LEDs in your dash - 1st gen libs use PWM to dim all the dash lights. LEDs and some resistors, no problem. I have them in my radio facia. Only thing is you can notice the 'buzzy' look of the LEDs when they are dim - as PWM switches them on and off at some fequency. As its easy to replace bulbs in the cluster, I'd just do that.

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El_Freddo
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Post by El_Freddo » Fri Oct 28, 2016 9:24 pm

Cheers DT. I should've used my arvo today a bit more productively with a visit to Jaycar :s

I'm hoping the block will be back on Monday to start the build process. I've been a little distracted with another subaru entering the family (and the start of report writing).

Cheers

Bennie
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Post by El_Freddo » Sat Oct 29, 2016 8:00 pm

Update time! Engine is still at the shop, but I should be picking it up Monday. That'll be an exciting moment (but not for the wallet :()

Other stuff happening - I've decided it's time to pull the dead engine, then strip that down to find out what the nasty noise is. My bet is on cylinder 1 or 2 (front driver's side) having a gudgeon pin issue or ring landing issues. I'm leaning more towards gudgeon pin issue though.

I'd probably have the engine out right now if it wasn't for this little forker:

Image

I've got the right sized allen key, but just can't crack the plug. I'm thinking someone's done a number with some locktite on this plug. Any suggestions other than heat (as I don't have any heat gun). I've levered on it good and proper, tried an extension tube but can't really get it on properly due to the angle the allen key is on. I feel that if I have a real go at it with the extension tube I'm either going to strip the plug or break my tool.

So the filthy (and I mean really filthy!) engine bay looks like this:

Image

Another interesting thing I found - WAIC with a puddle of oil. This gives a good indication to the health of this engine!

Image

I'm looking forward to pulling the driver's side head off to find out what's wrong with it. The bottom end seems good when it's running, the noise is IN the cylinder, not in the centre of the block like a big end.

And still no luck on the WAIC pump seal - if anyone has any leads I'd be more than appreciative to know about them!

Cheers

Bennie
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Captain Obvious
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Post by Captain Obvious » Mon Oct 31, 2016 8:09 pm

WAIC pump seal im sure were never available, best bet might be to get a pump like this http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Bosch-Electr ... SwbwlW~Z0h

also as for the allen key for the clutch fork, to get some heat rip down to bunnings and get a butane can torch kit cost about $30 and comes with a can, you can then use it to light fires while camping!!
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The 4x4: 2004 Nissan Navara d22 ZD30 dual cab.
The Wifes car: 2005 SG9 Facelift forester 2.5l auto XS

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Post by Captain Obvious » Mon Oct 31, 2016 8:10 pm

[SIGPIC]http://www.ausubaru.com/forum/image.php ... 1468060434[/SIGPIC]



The 4x4: 2004 Nissan Navara d22 ZD30 dual cab.
The Wifes car: 2005 SG9 Facelift forester 2.5l auto XS

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El_Freddo
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Post by El_Freddo » Tue Nov 01, 2016 1:34 pm

That link isn't displaying on my outdated phone but I think I know the one, it's either the butane pen torch or one of those little oxy looking torch heads with the gas canister mounted under the handle.

It's pretty shit that this little seal is a pita to get/non existent - the pump works fine, I just want to replace it since I've got the whole thing out...

Engine wasn't picked up - there apparently having to bore out a second size up due to rust in one or more bores that didn't come out with the initial work.

Now that I'm essentially juggling the build of this and the Gen3 Lib I feel like I need to be more on my game as bits are ordered and come in etc. It's all good fun though!

Cheers

Bennie
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El_Freddo
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Post by El_Freddo » Sun Nov 13, 2016 12:03 am

Nothing ruins your build progress like this:

Image

:evil:

Bennie
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Post by Suby Spanner » Sun Nov 27, 2016 3:51 pm

I've seen far, far worse put back together. If it's just a stocky rig, it will be fine, but if you're gonna boost it hard, then the blow by may become an issue.

I'm not familiar enough with the blocks, but they should be able to sleeve it if you want to it to be perfect: The sleeves are that hard, they will likely never wear out :) I nearly did that to a Nissan RB26 block, but I ended up just getting another block. Still got that block, who knows, in the future I might sleeve it yet.

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Post by Bantum » Sun Nov 27, 2016 11:08 pm

I'd check to see where it sits at TDC - hopeful it's below the rings ?

Otherwise a bit more grinding might work too, although may need Oversize rings ?

Keep at it ... ;)

Ciao, Bantum ...

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Post by Donkeytits1 » Tue Nov 29, 2016 3:22 pm

Hmm. That patch is rather high up, meaning you'll have quite high gas pressures while the rings are passing over it.

Should be heaps of EJ20T blocks getting around. There's a fb page called BECAUSE RS and there are engines getting flogged on there all the time, both working and dead.

RS libs seem to be lucky in that they seem to have attracted a strong following of mechanics, tech heads and tinkerers - Rather than the gay stance nation fanbois that are all over WRX forums.

Same deal with this forum actually. It puts me in my happy place :)

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Post by El_Freddo » Tue Nov 29, 2016 5:51 pm

Not on bookface any more but know of the because RS mob. I've purchased a hoodie, shirt and high quality replacement sticker set from Sean :D

I'm not going to pursue the use of this block atm. These aren't dime a dozen due to being closed deck, same as they came from factory with the RS. Apparently subarus run tight tolerances so over sized rings aren't suitable.

Sleeves may be strong but fitting them has inherent risks of warping things and comes with a price tag I don't want to entertain either. Also with fitting sleeves you need to machine a hole to access the gudgeon pin.

I need to get cracking on this project again. Things *should* become easier with work easing up, the race will now be to get all the bits before the Xmas holidays.

Cheers

Bennie
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Captain Obvious
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Post by Captain Obvious » Tue Nov 29, 2016 8:21 pm

opened up the block i sent down yet?
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The Wifes car: 2005 SG9 Facelift forester 2.5l auto XS

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Post by El_Freddo » Thu Dec 01, 2016 7:56 pm

Captain Obvious wrote:opened up the block i sent down yet?
Not far off it atm! I'll get another block checked out and keep yours sealed up for the other longer term project ;)

I stumbled across a screen shot of a post I found on RS Lib club about using the NA EJ22 block with RS heads. It got me thinking again about a quick build to get me going so I can drive this thing while the other build trundles along...

That's about it for now. The only real things I've done is swap rims with the gen 3 (so now wearing the WRX rims) and turned it around to face the other direction in the shed...

Cheers

Bennie
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Re: RS wagon...

Post by El_Freddo » Sun Aug 16, 2020 3:37 am

Had a pretty big one on the RS today. Last week I was swapping the rear LHS driveshaft as it’s got a split boot. I ended up pulling the whole knuckle out with the driveshaft stuck in it. Hopefully a press does the job.

Earlier in the day I got stuck into stripping down a GT series 2 foz EJ205 engine. I’ve got some V1/2 heads to go on so I can run the stock engine management and avoid more wiring stuff. This in my mind was going to be a straight job of pull GT head off, put V1/2 head on, roll engine over and repeat... until I found this - different style piston! Left is stock EJ205, right is what was used with the V1/2 heads:

Image

After an initial flip out about valves possibly hitting pistons, I started a thread on the USMB as the RS lib site is about as busy as a graveyard... I ended up coming around to the fact I’ll have to swap pistons over. Fun fun. I’ll speak with the engine shop and see what they reckon. If they need to be swapped I’ll see if they can put the pistons in - the cost is what that decision will swing off!

While doing an inventory on pistons, I stumbled/found this issue on cylinder 2 on the engine that came in the car, it barely ran back then:

Image

That would explain the smoke screen this thing produced when the engine was under load! Cylinder 1 had ZERO big end bearing left (main issue!), so much so that the piston slapped the head and there wasn’t any knocking noises at the crank, just upper cylinder noise like a really bad lifter from an EA82 was in there. Anyone remember this?

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=mEExLcobeHs

After dinner I got the instrument cluster back lighting sorted with some LEDs from Jaycar. Apparently you can’t/it’s really hard to find incandescent globes for cluster back lights etc. wasn’t overly happy with this but went with it anyway. I forgot to grab a pic of the final product - here’s one when I test fitted two LEDs to see if it was going to work LEDs on the left, old globes on the right:

Image

Got some hot spots as you can see at 4000rpm and at 0rpm area. I played around with roughing up the dome curve section of the LED - it didn’t really work. Some white paint (industrial texta) on the same area toned them down nicely so I went ahead and did the rest of them. I’m quite happy with the results even though they’re not a warm white, they’re a little on the cool white side for me but it’s better than no back lights!

I pulled the dodgy HID kit the RS came with. So bad - super blue! In the process of doing this I had a freak out moment after I put the old skool and power hungry halogen lights back in. I tested them out and EVERYTHING died as soon as I flicked the lights on. Now, to do this testing, I had the RS jerry-rigged to power up the dash lights. The battery I have that fits the small terminal clamps had very poor charge left, so I ran the jumper cables from our Pajero to the RS - I made sure the starter and alternator ends of the positive cables were isolated so there weren’t any fireworks.

So I went through all the fuses including the one fusible link (why did they keep one of these?? Is it a throw back tribute to the MY and L series?), all checked out good. Racking my brains I wiggled the jumper cable clamps, no change. I also pulled the LHS light’s wiring as the factory plug was removed to fit the HID kit, three loose wires with aftermarket spade terminals, I was guessing the wiring of the light when I put the halogen globe in. While there I moved the negative jumper cable from a bracket that holds the fuse panel to the body mount for the earth strap. Bingo, everything worked and the RHS light worked as it should. I cross referenced the light’s wiring and both now work. I reckon the instant load of the lights created a high resistance point at the negative clamp. Moving the clamp location did the trick.

Homage to Barbachello over at Subyclub (he often posts pics like this on his builds a he pulls bits he doesn’t want/like/need):

Image

I decided to pull the ECU to check it out while I was in the driver’s area too. This is what I found, RS’s ECU on the right, a spare RS ECU on the left:

Image

Image

The RS’s ECU has some dodgy looking twin wire setup hanging out one corner, nothing on the other end other than a pair of cleanly clipped wires cut on the same angle as each other. A good mate of mine threw a couple of these pics on facestalk and got a quick reply saying that it’s got an aftermarket VOS chip and that the twin wires (which one end has snapped off at the ECU motherboard) was for a switch for a high boost setting. Not knowing what the VOS entails, I won’t be using it until I understand it better.

A good day/night on the RS. I now know that all my lights except one side indicator are working. I’ll grab a replacement at some point. I’m having fun finding screws and things that I removed/packed up almost five years ago now. I’m glad a mate let me strip out a GX that he got for the engine last year. I kind of wish I went harder with more screws now!

Cheers

Bennie
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Re: RS wagon...

Post by Subyroo » Sun Aug 16, 2020 12:08 pm

You have been a busy little beaver Bennie. :lol: :lol:

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