RS wagon...

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Bumpty
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Post by Bumpty » Wed Aug 17, 2016 9:29 pm

Scrolling through on phone and I thought WOW YOU'VE ACTUALLY LIFTED IT ...but then noticed the jack stands haha

Good to see you're finding some time to tinker with it!

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El_Freddo
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Post by El_Freddo » Sat Sep 10, 2016 10:53 pm

Bumpty wrote:Scrolling through on phone and I thought WOW YOU'VE ACTUALLY LIFTED IT ...but then noticed the jack stands haha
That is still technically a lift Bumpty. You of all people should know this!

So since I've cleaned the under carriage, looking back on the pics I'm now wondering if I should paint the wheel wells satin black... Thoughts?

I've been hoping to strip down the block this weekend and get it into the builders this week for a hone/bore, new rings, new bottom and big end bearings. Looks like I might have to get a new set of pistons if the block is bored out. Apparently Subarus run pretty tight tolerances. We'll see what happens there. Also i e found conflicting info that the original RS setup uses a set of flat top pistons with the little half moon crescents for the valve clearances on the JDM units while the AUDM units run a dish with the crescents. Anyone able to confirm this?

So far this weekend I've barely managed to look at the RS :/

Tomorrow might tell a different story.

Cheers

Bennie
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timmo
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Post by timmo » Mon Sep 12, 2016 9:55 am

When you get it going we'll have to go for a spin. I must admit I have a spare RS EJ20G been thinking about offering to you but decided I would regret it as soon as something went wrong with mine :s

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El_Freddo
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Post by El_Freddo » Mon Sep 12, 2016 8:19 pm

All good mate!

I should've updated this earlier - and I hope Captain Obvious doesn't mind me sharing this (I owe him a big thank you!):

CO offered me a long block he's had hidden away for some time. It should currently be on the back of a truck headed in my direction :D

I'm currently looking for a sample of an original AUDM RS piston with the dish in the top of it. I've got a sample of a JDM unit that's a flat top - I don't want to run this piston simply for the aim of running 95 daily and 98 for fun runs (this was a selling point to Mrs El_Freddo...).

Thank you for the offer anyway Timmo! Hopefully your current engine doesn't do anything nasty! Murphy would have it something would go wrong as soon as you have that unit away...

Cheers

Bennie
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El_Freddo
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Post by El_Freddo » Sun Oct 09, 2016 11:28 am

Update time with pics! I managed to pull down the block between work and family commitments. I must say that this is my first EJ pull down and it was good to see some of the advancements in design over the EA82 (which I still believe was a slap job to meet the “over head cam” catch cry of the ‘80’s automotive industry).

I got the heads off some time ago and was hunting pistons (more on this later). To get them out there’s a bit of a process: remove this 14mm hex plug to access the gudgeon pins:

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Above is my home made tool. Worked well for the first two, didn’t do it for the last one so I went and purchased a proper tool as I figure I’ll need it to put the plugs in at the correct torque spec. Once that plug is off you’ll see the circlip like this:

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A set of long nose pliers has these out relatively easily. Then it’s time to get the gudgeon pin out - this can be a bit tricky if there’s a film of oil residue built up. I use a slide hammer with a long home made hook on it. Here’s the pin on the on way out:

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Out and on the slide hammer’s hook:

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Then to split the block, remove the sump and all the bolts on the front, top and rear of engine - and don’t forget the little 10mm headed bolt on the underside of the block near the oil pump area. The oil pump also needs to be removed (already done in previous pics).

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Then it’s time time remove the main bolts that hold the block together. From memory there’s 10 in total with 6 or 8 of those in the coolant galleries.

Then the block can be split with some gentle persuasion. Once the block has been split then the pistons can be removed. With the pistons removed you can see the oil squirter that provides oil on the back of the piston for cooling. I wouldn’t image that these would be too hard to add into other blocks if they were thought necessary for the build/intended use:

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The bores, probably a good thing they’re in for a re-bore job:

Image

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I couldn’t tell you which side this or what the pot number is…


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El_Freddo
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Post by El_Freddo » Sun Oct 09, 2016 11:29 am

So here are the different pistons:

WRX replacement piston (used with WRX “single bolt” heads):

Image

JDM RS turbo piston (used with RS “two bolt” heads):

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AUDM RS turbo piston (used with RS “two bolt” heads):

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The engine builders have the AUDM sample piston, over the phone I was quoted $440 for a set of pistons which I thought was good. Since dropping the sample unit in the price has upped to about $740! Race pistons it is. Really I’ve not got a choice, otherwise I don’t have an engine - but it should last the distance!

On a lighter note, here’s a bit of country engineering found in a box of “spare” bits:

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Noice! :p

And a pic of the rims with the centre cap on. I don’t mind them, better than I thought they’d look:

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Now to get the engine back and find the time to put it together. I’m really hoping to have this on the road well before Christmas but knowing how things go around here that might just happen.

Oh, and it’s mozzie season out there now too. Little bastards! All the rain we’ve had isn’t helping that situation.

A couple of thanks to share:
- Captain Obvious and Bboypebs who threw a block my way (one to build, one for a future project)
- idyat for the lending of the factory AUDM RS turbo piston for comparison

Cheers

Bennie
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Post by Silverbullet » Sun Oct 09, 2016 5:46 pm

El_Freddo wrote: On a lighter note, here’s a bit of country engineering found in a box of “spare” bits:

Image

Noice! :p
What the heck is that thing?! :eek:

Good to see some progress on this car! ;) Once all is said and done and you've driven it do you think you'll be using it more than Ruby scoo? :rolleyes:
Will it ever end!?
-EA81 TWIN CARB!!!!
-L series 5 speed
-Custom paint job
-2" lift
-Full custom re-wire
-L series front end
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El_Freddo
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Post by El_Freddo » Mon Oct 10, 2016 8:37 pm

That is the header tank. I don't know exactly what it's called but that's basically it.

The idea is to run this as a family bus/daily drive and leave Ruby Scoo (my original "RS" :p) as the offroader. Less wear on the 4wd tyres, can leave it pretty much packed up if I want.

I also wanted something a bit exciting to drive on road. Ruby Scoo handles well enough for what it is but I was looking for something that's a bit more fun yet still cop friendly.

I'm really looking forward to having this on the road!

Cheers

Bennie
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Post by Captain Obvious » Mon Oct 10, 2016 8:38 pm

No problems, good to see it going to some sort of use rather than sitting in my shed!

Cheers
Bryan
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Post by El_Freddo » Sun Oct 16, 2016 7:14 pm

So I wanted to get a few things done this weekend in prep for engine build time that will take me away from these "little things":

- replace globes in instrument cluster
- replace bearing in the WAIC water pump
- replace boots on the rear drive shaft

Globes: Easy it seems. Instrument cluster is out (practiced that at pick a park a few weeks ago - now wish I got the dash surround and screws as mine has a number of screws missing and a few of the mount points are cracked).

RS liberty club research suggests T10 globes x2 and T5 globes x12. But looking at the three coloured globe seats/clips, they each have a different sized globe in there - and since they're blown, it's really difficult to read the make of the globes :(

So I think I'll be taking the instrument cluster in to get what I need - and it won't be to super cheap either - $4 for two T5s! Forget it!

The WAIC pump went pretty smoothly - I used two little G clamps and some flat scrap pieces of steel to seal the hoses from leaking while I had the pump out - I didn't really want to drain the whole system!
The pump removal from the vehicle was relatively easy, as was the pulling apart of it. Again, some research on RSLC came up with the goods here, but you'll have to be a member to access this part of that forum ;)

I wasn't keen to tap the shaft to remove it from the bearing, and I didn't have a press available. So I came up with this little setup that did the trick:

Image

Now I've got the bearing and seal out I'm hoping Frog can track me down the seal as I've heard there isn't a replacement (which I find hard to believe).

The replacement of the boots on the rear driveshaft came to a halt when I found that I don't have the right socket for the job. I think it's a 32mm but can't remember as it's been years since I've had one of these off. So that was a no go.

I did get a pic of her with the centre caps on that's better than the one above ;)

Image

I finally put in my order with partsouq.com - they've sent it on its way. They also refunded some items that were apparently not in stock (but were when I ordered).

I also got my cam belt kit from the US at a good price, only to find out it's got an extra little idler pulley in there - so it looks like I'll need to run yet another different tensioner pulley backing plate if I end up running this kit :(

I'm hoping to also order some parts from Frog, including said seal. Then get the engine back and hopefully it'll come together pretty quick from there.

Other things I need to do:
- look into this interior trim removal tool I've heard about so I can:
- remove head lining to fit "new" second hand rear wagon door that's in better shape than mine
- remove and clean the carpet that's still got half the farm in it from the previous owner
- last thing will be to wire in a head unit for some tunes while cruising
- probably get a new windscreen for RWC - but will most likely try my chances on the current one

Also, looking at the exhaust while under the car today I'm hoping it's not too loud to pass RWC. It looks like a full 3 inch exhaust from the turbo back. I know from previous investigation/looking around the vehicle it's got an Xforce dump pipe.

During stuff going on around the time of the last update I found out that I've got a TD05H turbo, so it'll be interesting to see how this goes/behaves. I've been told it'll spool up at 3000 then pull like a trojan until the redline. Not that I'm wanting to drive it to the redline... It's got the boost solenoid bypassed so will currently only run waste gate pressure of about 9 psi. From what I understand it should be running 12 or 14 psi. I'm hoping the boost solenoid isn't stuffed.

Either way, I can't wait to have this on the road. Looks like it'll be xmas at this rate :evil:

Cheers

Bennie
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Bantum
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Post by Bantum » Mon Oct 17, 2016 3:53 am

Awesome ride, jealous ... :p

Got some T10 / T5 LEDs the other day From AliExpress - yet to fit them though ... :(

See here : showthread.php?t=22456&page=6


Cheers, Bantum ...

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Post by El_Freddo » Mon Oct 17, 2016 8:19 pm

Bantum wrote:Awesome ride, jealous ... :p
No need to be jealous Bantum - all it does is get pushed in and out of the shed depending on what I need to do to it (or what I need to access at the back of the shed!).

Yeah I'm not keen on LEDs as I don't want the typical LED hot and cold patches in the illumination of the cluster - and I'd like to retain the dimmer function too.

I've since found out via partsouq factory parts manual break down pics and lists that there are three globes used:

T10
T6.5
T5 - 1.4W

I can't remember the wattage of the T10 and T6.5 globes as I can't find my list :(
I'll update when I find the details/look them up again on the computer.

And I should've said earlier to Timmo - totally would love to cruise together once this is sorted!

I'm also hoping to do a couple of touring runs with Venom and his turbo Foz (don't know the model/designation). Grampians/Great Ocean Road, Tambo Valley/Mitta Mitta rd/Falls creek/Mt Hotham and back again are all on the cards :twisted:

Cheers

Bennie
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Post by Gazza01 » Tue Oct 18, 2016 6:51 am

Seen a few of those wagons go through Pickles Auction Brisbane but so many with NO Damage are shown as Stat.Writeoffs water damage. WTF water damage hows that make a car unroadworthy. Sure the motor might be cactus but a good hose down and a dry out and maybe a motor over haul would surely sort out all that. Sad to see so many good vehicles with NO Damage going to auction as Stat Writeoffs and of course ALL the parts are later sold in the wrecking yards seems like total madness time insurance companies started looking at whats going on with all these so called Stat Writeoff or Ripoffs. And of course if the cars over 15yrs alls ok it comes to Auction as WOVR N/A so away u go drive the thing away get RWC and rego and ure on the road in Qld.

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Post by Captain Obvious » Tue Oct 18, 2016 5:18 pm

I think you may find the boost solenoid has been bypassed so it doesn't hit boost cut? if so add a boost tee and set at desired PSI. also i thought the TD05 was a low boost turbo, maybe im thinking a the TD04, think these stock were vf10 or 12's

Cheers
Bryan
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Post by El_Freddo » Tue Oct 18, 2016 9:21 pm

Vf12 stock for manual, VF10 stock for auto CO ;)

I've been told the TD05 is the high rev (~3000rpm comes on boost) unit and the TD04 is lower in the rev range but runs out of puff higher up. Ultimately I'd love a turbo that comes in from 2500rpm, boosts high into the rev range for those time you just want to go there, but I'd also want it to stay off boost when cruising at 100 or 110kmph ;)

We'll see what happens. No moneys for extra turbo on the bench after the rebuild of the engine!!

Cheers

Bennie
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Post by Donkeytits1 » Fri Oct 28, 2016 7:43 pm

With reference to the LEDs in your dash - 1st gen libs use PWM to dim all the dash lights. LEDs and some resistors, no problem. I have them in my radio facia. Only thing is you can notice the 'buzzy' look of the LEDs when they are dim - as PWM switches them on and off at some fequency. As its easy to replace bulbs in the cluster, I'd just do that.

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Post by El_Freddo » Fri Oct 28, 2016 9:24 pm

Cheers DT. I should've used my arvo today a bit more productively with a visit to Jaycar :s

I'm hoping the block will be back on Monday to start the build process. I've been a little distracted with another subaru entering the family (and the start of report writing).

Cheers

Bennie
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Post by El_Freddo » Sat Oct 29, 2016 8:00 pm

Update time! Engine is still at the shop, but I should be picking it up Monday. That'll be an exciting moment (but not for the wallet :()

Other stuff happening - I've decided it's time to pull the dead engine, then strip that down to find out what the nasty noise is. My bet is on cylinder 1 or 2 (front driver's side) having a gudgeon pin issue or ring landing issues. I'm leaning more towards gudgeon pin issue though.

I'd probably have the engine out right now if it wasn't for this little forker:

Image

I've got the right sized allen key, but just can't crack the plug. I'm thinking someone's done a number with some locktite on this plug. Any suggestions other than heat (as I don't have any heat gun). I've levered on it good and proper, tried an extension tube but can't really get it on properly due to the angle the allen key is on. I feel that if I have a real go at it with the extension tube I'm either going to strip the plug or break my tool.

So the filthy (and I mean really filthy!) engine bay looks like this:

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Another interesting thing I found - WAIC with a puddle of oil. This gives a good indication to the health of this engine!

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I'm looking forward to pulling the driver's side head off to find out what's wrong with it. The bottom end seems good when it's running, the noise is IN the cylinder, not in the centre of the block like a big end.

And still no luck on the WAIC pump seal - if anyone has any leads I'd be more than appreciative to know about them!

Cheers

Bennie
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Captain Obvious
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Post by Captain Obvious » Mon Oct 31, 2016 8:09 pm

WAIC pump seal im sure were never available, best bet might be to get a pump like this http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Bosch-Electr ... SwbwlW~Z0h

also as for the allen key for the clutch fork, to get some heat rip down to bunnings and get a butane can torch kit cost about $30 and comes with a can, you can then use it to light fires while camping!!
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Post by Captain Obvious » Mon Oct 31, 2016 8:10 pm

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The 4x4: 2004 Nissan Navara d22 ZD30 dual cab.
The Wifes car: 2005 SG9 Facelift forester 2.5l auto XS

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