Ruby Scoo’s epic build, ten years and counting...
Moderator: El_Freddo
- vincentvega
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- El_Freddo
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Yeah, learnt that with this fix. It's a good thing to know too - and relatively simple to do.tambox wrote:Yep, when playing with different casings/gears, that little plate with the detent holes often has to be re-drilled/extended.
Yep. This low range came from a box that was worked from time to time. I decided on this set as it didn't make any noise, unlike the one I had in my current gearbox at the time...tambox wrote:Got an oil feed for the low range??
Your teeth are getting marked (love quality photo's)
Oil feeders are used when ever they're needed these days, so hopefully there's no further damage.
No worries on the quality photos - something I enjoy doing!
You've gone back to a manual yeah? You could do a diff ratio match if you're keen on sorting it out...vincentvega wrote:well done getting the speedo spot on mate. i miss mine being accurate.
Cheers
Bennie
- vincentvega
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Nice work on the Gearbox Mods El Freddo possibly the only thing I would consider doing differently is not to use copper pipe for the oiul squirters as sooner or later it will vibration fracture because it is not supported.
The material spec I would use to make those Oil squirter tubes from would be what is known as Bundy Tube this is a special seamless steel tube normally used as the correct application for Fuel Lines and available in the same sizes as the copper tube.
Yes especially in the Northern Hemisphere they tend to make Brake Lines from Copper tube which is actually illegal in Australia for good reason but proper Bundy Tube in Australia is also available with a copper coating not just the usual Nickel plating for rust prevention (That is why in Salt Laden Road environments they tend toward copper tube for brake lines).
So I would use Bundy tube for the next gearbox Mod and silver solder the fittings rather than normal solder as it is much stronger and has better vibration resistence unlike normal soldered joints.
So Plaudits for what you have achieved but try Bundy Tube and Silver solder to make it even more bullet proof for the next build.
The material spec I would use to make those Oil squirter tubes from would be what is known as Bundy Tube this is a special seamless steel tube normally used as the correct application for Fuel Lines and available in the same sizes as the copper tube.
Yes especially in the Northern Hemisphere they tend to make Brake Lines from Copper tube which is actually illegal in Australia for good reason but proper Bundy Tube in Australia is also available with a copper coating not just the usual Nickel plating for rust prevention (That is why in Salt Laden Road environments they tend toward copper tube for brake lines).
So I would use Bundy tube for the next gearbox Mod and silver solder the fittings rather than normal solder as it is much stronger and has better vibration resistence unlike normal soldered joints.
So Plaudits for what you have achieved but try Bundy Tube and Silver solder to make it even more bullet proof for the next build.
- El_Freddo
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It was really pot luck mate! But you can call one me and we'll see what we can come up withvincentvega wrote:If i ever have to open the box up i will look into sorting the speedo (and will be chasing you for advice!!)
Thanks Coxy, knowing your expertise it means a lot. And thanks for the tips on the bundy tube, I'll get onto that for sure next time the box is open (maybe 4.44:1 diff ratio swap? )coxy wrote:Nice work on the Gearbox Mods El Freddo possibly the only thing I would consider doing differently is not to use copper pipe for the oiul squirters as sooner or later it will vibration fracture because it is not supported.
The material spec I would use to make those Oil squirter tubes from would be what is known as Bundy Tube this is a special seamless steel tube normally used as the correct application for Fuel Lines and available in the same sizes as the copper tube...
...So I would use Bundy tube for the next gearbox Mod and silver solder the fittings rather than normal solder as it is much stronger and has better vibration resistence unlike normal soldered joints.
Ruby Scoo is now being geared up for a trip this weekend - new cb radio fitted, AC ducting sorted and blower fan cleaned out of the half ton of leaves so I should finally have some decent AC action going on after about 10 years of ownership of this L!
I'm also hoping that this trip is a good one as it's a new area that's an unknown for us
Cheers
Bennie
What no AC Bennie have the window winders fallen off and never been replaced in the last ten years or something.
When it comes to in car cooling the three best things ever invented came out of the UK
Land Rover tropical roof is number one
Land Rover lift up vent panel below the windscreen is number two
Number three made it's appearance in Mini Panel vans and has since been stolen by all and sundry and added to their rally cars and Off road racers and is of course the humble Roof vent awesome for keeping cool and more important positive pressure inside the cabin so no dust comes in, Unless of course you spin out from tyring too hard and end up in your own dust cloud.;
When it comes to in car cooling the three best things ever invented came out of the UK
Land Rover tropical roof is number one
Land Rover lift up vent panel below the windscreen is number two
Number three made it's appearance in Mini Panel vans and has since been stolen by all and sundry and added to their rally cars and Off road racers and is of course the humble Roof vent awesome for keeping cool and more important positive pressure inside the cabin so no dust comes in, Unless of course you spin out from tyring too hard and end up in your own dust cloud.;
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- El_Freddo
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Nah mate I've got power windows but have to put a bung in the door cards.
I've got AC but it's not real flash. We're about to investigate the interior fan's voltage and see if we can hook up a "turbo" wire setting to spin that fan better. It could also be the fan is old as it's always been on when I've been driving...
And less than 1000k km for the golden 500!
Cheers
Bennie
I've got AC but it's not real flash. We're about to investigate the interior fan's voltage and see if we can hook up a "turbo" wire setting to spin that fan better. It could also be the fan is old as it's always been on when I've been driving...
And less than 1000k km for the golden 500!
Cheers
Bennie
- Silverbullet
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- El_Freddo
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I'll have to look into that. They've only just been uploaded so there shouldn't be an issue and they worked for me last night. Seems a lot of my old images have been dropped here and there tooNachaLuva wrote:Looks like a couple of pics didnt work.
I need another night (a few free hours) to get this TR done - dunno when that's going to happen
Cheers
Bennie
Looking forward to the TR
EZ30 L series - Monsterwagon
https://www.ausubaru.com.au/viewtopic.php?f=71&t=26163
https://www.ausubaru.com.au/viewtopic.php?f=71&t=26163
- The Loyale
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Digging this photo mate!
El_Freddo wrote:
'92 Loyale - Safariwagon (Under Restoration)
130,000
'92 Toyota Landcruiser - Safariwagon-II "Nimble as an Ox!"
181,000
[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]
130,000
'92 Toyota Landcruiser - Safariwagon-II "Nimble as an Ox!"
181,000
[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]
- El_Freddo
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The Epic WA Trip Report has finally be completed and uploaded!
Pack a lunch - you've been warned!
Cheers
Bennie
Pack a lunch - you've been warned!
Cheers
Bennie
- steptoe
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OK, reading this quoted post, putting it with removing said stuck punch in 2015, that diff and punch been sitting out in the weather at least six years !!
steptoe wrote:Just been rereading this post and found a connection with #25. I have got my Subaru CV punch stuck in a rear diff DOJ and it will only budge and not come out ! Stuffed if I know how it can get stuck somewhere in the middle
Gees , those pics are big. Was only just thinking today I should shove a used set of belts in the boot - just in case, and was looking at idler and tensioner bearings of EA82T I am pulling down, shove them in too, and the tools I suppose.Those photos look like they could sell a few timing belt kits complete with tensioners and idler!! They feel and sound rough spinning freely but gave no noise indication when engine was put through its paces. Heads are off, see score mark on offending cylinder, no cracks, no holes
Can almost smell the belt, or is it leftover from following a fella up the highway in an RS looking Lib. Front left tyre smoking and shredding away. Someone up front alerted him to the fact. Must be AWD makes it hard to feel a flat tyre shredding away !
- El_Freddo
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So the much awaited pics of the rear suspension bushes are finally here! About 150k km of some serious offroad abuse resulted in this:
From memory I laid these out left to right as they are in the vehicle. Inner bushes were scrubbed out the worst:
Some of the bushes slide straight out, one in particular was a nightmare to get out but once it was out the new ones went in really well so I was happy with that.
I'm still not 100% sure that the issue is sorted and am yet to find the time to jack up the rear end and check the bearings which I wouldn't be surprised if they were shot as it's been a few years and a number of water crossings since I replaced these...
That's it for now. I've recently been driving Ruby Scoo around town and really enjoying her again - my challenging is to short shift at 2500rpm rather than revving out to 3000+rpm, I'm getting used to it and would love to swap out 5th to that longer ratio I was originally chasing. Just another thing to add to the "to-do" list.
Cheers
Bennie
From memory I laid these out left to right as they are in the vehicle. Inner bushes were scrubbed out the worst:
Some of the bushes slide straight out, one in particular was a nightmare to get out but once it was out the new ones went in really well so I was happy with that.
I'm still not 100% sure that the issue is sorted and am yet to find the time to jack up the rear end and check the bearings which I wouldn't be surprised if they were shot as it's been a few years and a number of water crossings since I replaced these...
That's it for now. I've recently been driving Ruby Scoo around town and really enjoying her again - my challenging is to short shift at 2500rpm rather than revving out to 3000+rpm, I'm getting used to it and would love to swap out 5th to that longer ratio I was originally chasing. Just another thing to add to the "to-do" list.
Cheers
Bennie