Ruby Scoo’s epic build, ten years and counting...

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El_Freddo
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Post by El_Freddo » Wed Sep 30, 2009 12:21 pm

steptoe wrote:long and the short of it Bennie is the EJ20 was probably most sensible compromise engine to fit to plase most involved, well done
EA series discs all around, I reread my PM's :)
Yeah got the discs all round - they work very well and am glad that I'd sourced them before the EJ went in. I've installed an EJ22, not the EJ20. The catalyst for the project was an EJ20 that I bought from Heath - it was a catalyst for his EJ install as well. I remember him having some problems shortly after the conversion was completed. No-one's heard from him since he moved, that was over a year ago now.

Dunno what I'll do with the EJ20 - might get it going on the shed floor then put it aside as a spare in good working order...

Cheers

Bennie
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phillatdarwin
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Post by phillatdarwin » Wed Sep 30, 2009 8:45 pm

i drive in 4WD in the wet all the time and i do not get any binding at all .
and it is a lot safer .

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steptoe
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Post by steptoe » Wed Sep 30, 2009 11:21 pm

Wet tarmac ? I do often get bind up. Take off , first then second then back to fwd smoothly. Drive too far too long and it needs a god bit of slip on wet grass or crap to bang it back to fwd.

Bennie, you can pat yaself on the back for wisely doing the AWD. One reason I chose the EA82T is that it shares very similar torque rating with the EJ22 nd even with the lesser torque exhaust cross over pipe in use at the moment I am still always breakinng traction in the dry, and the wet ! Pussyfoot it around. I have spotted a stacked Lib and thinking of asking about it if it has good AWD box cheap to fit my spare EA 5 speed cases too. Almost accept a single ratio jobby.Then there is another L Series someone told me of to check out.....and stupid me tok another look at an early Foz with 296,000 km no price yet...maybe just a test drive....

and I am still driving my catalyst - it was supposed to be parts donor after good road test!

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El_Freddo
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VASS certification needed for EJ22

Post by El_Freddo » Thu Oct 01, 2009 4:59 pm

I went to vic roads today to change the engine number. It didn't happen - I need to get a VASS certificate. VASS = Vehicle Assessment Signatory Scheme, it lists all the authorised engineers that can certify your modifications. Vic Roads tells me that any EJ placed in an L series or MY will need an engineer's report as the motor was not an option from factory for the vehicle...

So I've got the list and am about to email the only engineer in bendigo - I just hope that he's ok with lift kits as I'm hoping to get everything done at once... Just need time and money :???:

Steptoe - I don't have AWD yet, but it is in the pipe line, just need a few parts and again, some time and money :???: :???:

I got my front speakers sorted today, its good to have one on each door again. I'm thinking of making new door skins as my ones are falling apart and look pretty tatty...

That's it for now.

Cheers

Bennie
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AlpineRaven
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Post by AlpineRaven » Thu Oct 01, 2009 9:44 pm

bugger eh.... At least you know where you're going from here...
Cheers
AP
Subarus that I have/had:
1995 Liberty "Rallye" - 5MT AWD, LSD - *written off 25/8/06 in towing accident.
1996 Liberty Wagon - SkiFX AWD 5MT D/R, Lifted.. Outback Sway Bar, 1.59:1 Low Gearing see thread: 1.59:1 in EJ Box Page
Sold at 385,000kms in July 2011.
2007 Liberty BP Wagon, 2.5i automatic
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steptoe
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Post by steptoe » Fri Oct 02, 2009 9:05 am

double that bugger! Now, if only Subaru made an EJ optional in any Subaru they built after the EJ was introduced, our lives would be less complex. It was a bit rude selling Brumbies in the 90's with an engine developed and proved in the 70's. No AWD yet, so are you braking traction in FWD then around the torqueiset revs? I was gonna read back to see what tailshaft you used - guess I have to wait.

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El_Freddo
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Post by El_Freddo » Fri Oct 02, 2009 10:14 am

steptoe wrote:Now, if only Subaru made an EJ optional in any Subaru they built after the EJ was introduced, our lives would be less complex. It was a bit rude selling Brumbies in the 90's with an engine developed and proved in the 70's. No AWD yet, so are you braking traction in FWD then around the torqueiset revs? I was gonna read back to see what tailshaft you used - guess I have to wait.
Nah not braking traction, but then I'm not giving it everything its got ALL the time - that's not why I did the conversion. But it is nice to have that power and torque there if I want to use it, then I'd break traction in the dry if not careful.

In the wet its too easy to do - even accelorating moderatly in second when its wet I can feel the front wheels fighting for traction or at speed with the tiniest bit of water build up where 99% of vehicles wheels track I can feel the torque steer, it is minimal but its there and I don't remember it with the EA82...

If subaru made an EJ option, I'm sure I'd have to get a wagon of the specific year that the motor was an option. I've heard of others dropping a turbo EA82 into a wagon but have to get it engineered because the turbo never came to oz in the wagon format, even though the body structure etc is pretty much the same between the wagon and sedan... So either way I reckon I'd have to be jumping through some sort of hoop.

Also, got a reply from the VASS engineer - he's currently overbooked so I have to look else where :(

Cheers

Bennie
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steptoe
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Post by steptoe » Sat Oct 03, 2009 2:08 am

Bennie, are you allowed to continue driving the beast until you get the engineers cert, or did you not dare ask? Ive felyt mine lose traction in the wet FWD at 100 cruising when hitting a run of water across the road. That was a bit unnerving so slipped her into 4.

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El_Freddo
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Post by El_Freddo » Mon Oct 05, 2009 5:13 pm

No one told me I couldn't... Just gotta sort my insurance so its completely covered.

I've heard back from an engineer. It'll cost about $1000 to certify the motor. Its starting to look like I'll be stuck with a 2 inch lift and wheels that are 15mm over standard diametre :evil: I'm still keen on the 3 inch lift and 27 inch tyres...

Time will tell.

Cheers

Bennie
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ScubyRoo
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Post by ScubyRoo » Mon Oct 05, 2009 5:29 pm

El_Freddo wrote:
So I've got the list and am about to email the only engineer in bendigo - I just hope that he's ok with lift kits as I'm hoping to get everything done at once... Just need time and money :???:

...

Cheers

Bennie
Mate, anyone listed in frankston area?

Cheers, Owen.
The Green Machine is up for sale :(. Lifted, bars, exhausts... View Gumtree ad

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Captain Obvious
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Post by Captain Obvious » Mon Oct 05, 2009 6:22 pm

2" lift is fine on the L's just got 3'' strut tops, harder to measure them in the strut tower

bryan

also they dont look that out of place with 27's either!!
[SIGPIC]http://www.ausubaru.com/forum/image.php ... 1468060434[/SIGPIC]



The 4x4: 2004 Nissan Navara d22 ZD30 dual cab.
The Wifes car: 2005 SG9 Facelift forester 2.5l auto XS

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Captain Obvious
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Post by Captain Obvious » Mon Oct 05, 2009 6:30 pm

This is what my RX looked like just before i sold it with 3" strut tops in the front lifted king springs all round and 2" body lift. and 27" nankangs.

Image



*sob* now im all upset after seeing that pic.
[SIGPIC]http://www.ausubaru.com/forum/image.php ... 1468060434[/SIGPIC]



The 4x4: 2004 Nissan Navara d22 ZD30 dual cab.
The Wifes car: 2005 SG9 Facelift forester 2.5l auto XS

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GOD
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Post by GOD » Mon Oct 05, 2009 6:55 pm

El_Freddo wrote:Its starting to look like I'll be stuck with a 2 inch lift and wheels that are 15mm over standard diametre :evil: I'm still keen on the 3 inch lift and 27 inch tyres...
2" lift will be ample.

I thought you were allowed have tyres up to 15mm taller without any approval. Surely an official ginger beer can approve bigger?

Alternatively, I have heard it suggested that you change the tyre placard on the vehicle. A mate here had a 944 with huge tyres on the back, and a bloke from the licensing dept (not the wankers that actually do the inspections, but a knowledgeable person in the engineering office) said that if he finds a tyre placard off another vehicle, or even makes up his own, the tyres will be approved and no one will ever know ;).

Dane.
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ScubyRoo
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Post by ScubyRoo » Mon Oct 05, 2009 7:18 pm

how does the tire size deal go if you are upsizing rims? I.e. i'm going from 14" rims to 16", will the 15mm be from the subaru 16" standard?
The Green Machine is up for sale :(. Lifted, bars, exhausts... View Gumtree ad

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Venom
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Post by Venom » Mon Oct 05, 2009 8:46 pm

To clarifiy wheels and tyre size changes, the VSI 8, which covers vehicle modification standards in Vic, specifies the following standards:

rolling diameter increases (and decreases) are based upon the largest (or smallest) tyre available from the factory. So rim size changes are irrelevant, provided that the rolling diameter of the tyres does not change more than 15mm. E.g a 215/60/16 tyre and rim and a 235/40/18 tyre and rim both have a rolling diameter of 332mm, so as far as the authorities are concerned there is NO change in diameter.

Width increases are specified for rims only, within 25mm of the widest (or narrowist) rim available from the factory.

The link for all the standards is:
http://www.vicroads.vic.gov.au/Home/Rul ... formation/
Modified vehicles is document number 8.
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GOD
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Post by GOD » Mon Oct 05, 2009 9:21 pm

Isn't the point of going to an engineer to get approval for mods outside those allowed by VSI 8?

And my dodgy method described above might still work, depending on whether the inspectors and/or engineer get their info from the tyre placard on the vehicle or from some database they have.

Dane.
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El_Freddo
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Post by El_Freddo » Tue Oct 06, 2009 12:02 pm

I think the issue with the increased tyre diametre is the efficiency of the standard brakes in coping with the extra diametre tyres.

It was odd in that with the upgraded motor the engineer said it'd be easy to certify if all the pollution gear was used from the donor vehicle - and that the donor vehicle was an oz delivered unit. There was no mention of the brake setup at all...

I'm hoping to find an engineer that will certify the lift and tyres. I like the idea of the 3 inch strut tops! How'd the drive shafts handle the angle changes?

It'll be a little while off till I can get the certification done - its all about $$$ :(

You'd think that the engineers would be able to work outside of the set standards so long as its safe etc - some of them are frightened off by the possibility of litigation if an accident occurs with a vehicle that is modified with their name on it... Red tape sucks!

Cheers

Bennie
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Post by openflame06 » Sun Oct 11, 2009 7:18 pm

El freddo this thread was great. Just read the entire thing, i've been thinking about puttin an EJ20 into my L series but wasnt sure exactly what was involved. Seems quite achievable after looking at this.

Now im in a position where i need to get some $$$ togther. The L just passed rego this year on friday so gotta pay for that first.

Ive looked into the laws about changing engines in NSW and it says 15% above engine capacity is ok so an EJ20 is suitable - doesnt mention anything about the enigne being optional in that car or anything I might just have to talk to the RTA about that one.

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carlie400
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Welder

Post by carlie400 » Sun Oct 11, 2009 8:20 pm

Hey Bennie!

Good read. Luck with all that! At least all my issues havn't been self inflicted as yours are!!

Keep in mind Mick is a welder if you need any work done, he's a good one too!

Cheers,

Carlie
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El_Freddo
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Post by El_Freddo » Sun Oct 11, 2009 9:07 pm

openflame06 wrote:El freddo this thread was great. Just read the entire thing, i've been thinking about puttin an EJ20 into my L series but wasnt sure exactly what was involved. Seems quite achievable after looking at this.

Now im in a position where i need to get some $$$ togther. The L just passed rego this year on friday so gotta pay for that first.

Ive looked into the laws about changing engines in NSW and it says 15% above engine capacity is ok so an EJ20 is suitable - doesnt mention anything about the enigne being optional in that car or anything I might just have to talk to the RTA about that one.
Yeah, do talk to the RTA about it. Also, for a more in depth and consice install check out this thread I've knocked up about the EJ install. I don't think I put in there that the Power steering, if you've got it, is as easy as bolting the EJ power steering hoses into the L series power steering rack.
carlie400 wrote:Hey Bennie!

Good read. Luck with all that! At least all my issues havn't been self inflicted as yours are!!

Keep in mind Mick is a welder if you need any work done, he's a good one too!
Thanks Carlie! Not real problem, just one about legalities really. And I don't mind when its me who's created the problem as I'm usually aware of what could go wrong or should go wrong ;)

Thanks for letting me know about mick's work - I've got my uncle who's also qualified if I need anything done, if he's not available I'll give you a buzz!

In other news I found out that my front tyres are basically shot due to a dodgy wheel alignment - both are worn on the inside edge and are heavily feathered to the right. For a vehicle with obvious permenant negative camber and a more powerful engine installed I would have thought the tyres would wear on the outter edge like they did with the EA82, just not within 4000kms!

So tomorrow morning will be spent arguing with the tyre joint - at least they have a 10,000km warranty on their wheel alignments and tyres... Should be fun.

Cheers

Bennie
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