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Umm ... what are going to do with the water lines, as won't they interfere with that pimp setup ? ...

Loved the video. Looks like the Brumby took it in its stride compared to some of the bigger vehicles including the pro buggies!

Looking forward to seeing the rest of the setup.

Cheers

Bennie

brumbyrunner wrote:the motor grenaded in the first couple of kms and we were in the market for a new engine. We got home and stripped the motor down to discover this

Ouch! Any idea what happened?

brumbyrunner wrote:the gearbox let go about 40kms in. It looked like the front diff had tried to jump out of the case and was leaking oil badly.
....
Don't know how the gearbox held up with no oil and all that grinding, but it did, and that 20kg Viscous Centre did a superb job of directing enough drive to the back diff. We still did it in 3hrs30min and that was enough for 3rd in class and 35th outright.

You can see the small hole in the side of the case. It doesn't look much but that 'box is toast.

Way to keep going against the odds...awesome effort!

BTW, how do you find the 20kg centre onroad?

Bantum wrote:Umm ... what are going to do with the water lines, as won't they interfere with that pimp setup ? ...

One of the many issues that had to be sorted out. Stay tuned....I'll get to it.

NachaLuva wrote:Ouch! Any idea what happened?
Way to keep going against the odds...awesome effort!
BTW, how do you find the 20kg centre onroad?

>I think #4 bigend let go. I honestly haven't spend much time investigating. As far as I'm concerned these motors needs better lubrication. When I get my new motor built, it'll be getting crank phasing.
>thanks
>I've never had a 20kg centre onroad but I wouldn't advise it. They're pretty tight.

The primary goal for my dry sump installation was improving the approach angle. N/A motors are bad enough, but when you have to contend with a turbo crossover pipe in front of an already low hanging sump and then raise the body and bumper away from it, the approach angle gets woeful and the components are horrible exposed. Any Subaru off-roaders already know this I'm sure. In the beginning, I made a steel bashplate to protect the front-end and tie it all together and it's done a fine job. However, it does strike the ground regularly and needs straightening after every race.

So to this end, I tried to make everything below the block as "tucked up" and streamlined as I could. With the exhaust and sump removed the lowest hanging things are the oil pump and oil filter. I removed the oil cooler housing and using a metric nipple, bolted the oil filter directly to the block. The dry sump will hold about twice as much oil and have lines running all the way to the back of the cab, so cooling won't be a problem. The oil cooler coolant return line runs to a port in the block which un-screws and I replaced it with a plug. The coolant supply line comes direct from the water pump which also has two other outlets that I thought I didn't need. The outlets are pressed in so I removed them and tapped out the ports so I could screw plugs in their place.



I had intended to use a N/A pump (on the left) but the thermostat housing hangs down too low.

great to see things are happening again stuart! that video i cool stuff!!

bryan

Thanks Bryan.

Next up, I built a new coolant line that runs from the water pump, up the cam covers, under the oil pump, under the intake manifold and meets up with the existing line from the radiator, just behind the starter motor. Also in this pic, you can see the pump mount bolted to the alt bracket. I had to turn it upside down, carve a piece out of the bottom to clear the coolant line and tap in new threads. Metric this time instead of UNC. I did this to lower the pump so it'd clear the bonnet.



I also built a reversed water manifold that runs from the two outlets on top of the block, under the intake manifold and meets up with the other line to the water pump.





I also blanked off the oil filler as it's no longer needed.

Theres a few dry sump oil pans on the market, but none suited this application so I had to build my own. I'm using a 3 stage pump which gives 2 stages of suction, so I need 2 outlets on the oil pan but they have to be at the front, to keep away from the exhaust. The rear of the oil pan is higher so the oil can drain down to the outlets. The long red fittings are scavenge filters to stop rubbish getting sucked into the oil pump.



I also wanted to retain the windage tray so had to cut it down to fit under the new oil pan.

Do you still have / need a thermostat in the line somewhere ?

All the Subaru dry sumps I've seen use an adapter on the oil filter location. This allows the oil to be fed directly into the bearings etc. and away from the disused oil pump. But it hangs down too low and requires a relocated oil filter which is an overly complex result. Instead, I ran my oil feed line into the bottom of the gutted oil pump, where the oil can follow it's original path into the engine. I cut the feed port on the bottom of the pump as short as I could and tapped it out to M18x1.5



Then built a JIC elbow to screw into the port. A bit short on pics but this is the end result.



You can also see I had to replace one of the new plugs on the water pump to run a coolant hose to the turbo.

Bantum wrote:Do you still have / need a thermostat in the line somewhere ?

No, don't need one.

Next up I mounted the Petersons oil tank behind the passenger seat.



And the breather can outside the cab on the rear firewall.



Then I ran the rest of the hoses. This new nylon braid from Earls doesn't have the same wear characteristics as steel braid but is about half the weight and is still rated for high pressure and vacuum.

I welcome, who the producer of disks and what parameters diameter, width, OFFSET and PCD?

brumbyrunner wrote:You can see how much higher the rear guard is cut out now compared to when I did it the first time.

The wheel rims, also known as mag wheels, look like "Performance" brand , made by in Adelaide, South Australian . My guess is 15" x 6" ?

Nice work with all the plumbing, you have given me a few ideas concerning my carby manifold on PJ.

does having no thermostat mean you used a restricter of some sort, or does the distance the coolant is travelling mean you have fewer overheating problems and more keeping the coolant hot?

TOONGA

STiAMV wrote:I welcome, who the producer of disks and what parameters diameter, width, OFFSET and PCD?

steptoe is right STiMAV, they are Performance Superlites in 15 x 7, made right here in Australia. Can't remember the offset but the PCD is just the Subaru 4 stud pattern 4x140. Check them out here

TOONGA wrote:Nice work with all the plumbing, you have given me a few ideas concerning my carby manifold on PJ.

does having no thermostat mean you used a restricter of some sort, or does the distance the coolant is travelling mean you have fewer overheating problems and more keeping the coolant hot?

TOONGA

When we first plumbed the radiator in the back, I let the EJ water pump do all the work to see what would happen. It couldn't keep up as the temp was very erratic. Then I added the smallest Davis-Craig water pump (there make 2 sizes), kept the thermostat and wired the pump to run with the ignition (full time). It worked great and ran so cool that if you leave the fans running when the car is idling, they will pull the temp down to ambient. But it was difficult to prime, so now the pump is switched independently and with no thermostat I can pump coolant through the entire system without the motor running. I can also now leave the water pump off when the engines cold so it warms up faster.

brumbyrunner wrote:steptoe is right STiMAV, they are Performance Superlites in 15 x 7, made right here in Australia. Can't remember the offset but the PCD is just the Subaru 4 stud pattern 4x140. Check them out here



When we first plumbed the radiator in the back, I let the EJ water pump do all the work to see what would happen. It couldn't keep up as the temp was very erratic. Then I added the smallest Davis-Craig water pump (there make 2 sizes), kept the thermostat and wired the pump to run with the ignition (full time). It worked great and ran so cool that if you leave the fans running when the car is idling, they will pull the temp down to ambient. But it was difficult to prime, so now the pump is switched independently and with no thermostat I can pump coolant through the entire system without the motor running. I can also now leave the water pump off when the engines cold so it warms up faster.

at me on the Forester stand similar from WATANABE OFFSET34 PCD5/100, I want such as at you for BRAT to find but that OFFSET was zero , thanks for the link

Check out the Brumby

http://youtu.be/0fbzJgeW7wQ

Race week is here

FROG wrote:Check out the Brumby

http://youtu.be/0fbzJgeW7wQ

Race week is here

Looks like the steering gets a bit light just after the three minute mark...

!!! awesome.

watch all 8 mins 18 seconds too !! Next life I had better come back as an aerial camera dude - wanted to hear the chopper noise