Fat '84 Touring Wagon
She's back
It has been around the 36 hrs now. All seems to be going well. It looks like steve had the luck of the draw. When he brought the leone from the wreckers for a double tun ( $200 ) it looks like it was a total rebuild. Never been fired up since it was rebuilt. Even new pistons so steve reckons . I know the exhaust ports were clean , had the shot peened look. Also looks like the second auto box we had is the better of the two according to steve.
rtcb65
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Redneck Rick.
1997 Gen 3 outback. GT forester wheels . Hopefully more changes to come. Proud Supporter And User of -----------C R O S S B R E D --- P E R F O R M A N C E ---- Products
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Redneck Rick.
1997 Gen 3 outback. GT forester wheels . Hopefully more changes to come. Proud Supporter And User of -----------C R O S S B R E D --- P E R F O R M A N C E ---- Products
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Number 2
And number 2 engine is dead. So back in the shed , well in the yard anyway. This one through a leg out of bed as the saying goes. Rod through the top of the block. We only have one EA81 left so i hope it stays together. This time steve is going to pull it down to make sure it is ok inside . Something he failed to do with the others.
rtcb65
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Redneck Rick.
1997 Gen 3 outback. GT forester wheels . Hopefully more changes to come. Proud Supporter And User of -----------C R O S S B R E D --- P E R F O R M A N C E ---- Products
[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]
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Redneck Rick.
1997 Gen 3 outback. GT forester wheels . Hopefully more changes to come. Proud Supporter And User of -----------C R O S S B R E D --- P E R F O R M A N C E ---- Products
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As Someone said awhile ago that the Subie's are bullet proof. Well they may well be but they aren't Steve proof. Ha, ha. He is certainly making a job of this one, but hopefully he will get it right this time. I'm sort of getting sick of seeing it come back all the time not under it's own power. lol:
Lea
Subie Boys's
Roscoruby's
Better Half
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Subie Boys's
Roscoruby's
Better Half
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- El_Freddo
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Bugger eh?rtcb65 wrote:And number 2 engine is dead. So back in the shed , well in the yard anyway. This one through a leg out of bed as the saying goes. Rod through the top of the block. We only have one EA81 left so i hope it stays together. This time steve is going to pull it down to make sure it is ok inside . Something he failed to do with the others.
Well, third time lucky. I guess you've got some good spare heads now...
Bennie
new engine
This time it is all out on this engine. Out comes the engineering for this engine. Steve is looking at decompressing the chamber by taking some of the alloy out of the head so he can fit a turbo . A basic system. Just the turbo and the ducting for it and the waste gate into the exhaust. That is the plan so far that i know of. Still running a carby , Pre turbo. I myself will be watching this set up closely , more knowledge for me to learn. As the saying goes : The more you learn, the more you should realize that you didnt know .
rtcb65
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Redneck Rick.
1997 Gen 3 outback. GT forester wheels . Hopefully more changes to come. Proud Supporter And User of -----------C R O S S B R E D --- P E R F O R M A N C E ---- Products
[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]
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Redneck Rick.
1997 Gen 3 outback. GT forester wheels . Hopefully more changes to come. Proud Supporter And User of -----------C R O S S B R E D --- P E R F O R M A N C E ---- Products
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- last celtic warrior
- Junior Member
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Rick's right, I am going all out to make sure this motor is the final one for this car. I was going to build one up over time with a turbo and bigger carby, but that's been brought forward to now, since it appears it the only way I'm going to get a decent motor for my car.
The block I'm using has been sitting around for a while but appears to have less than 5000km on new pistons, cam, bearings, lifters, pushrods etc... I'm putting more fresh bearings in the bottom end and using the brand new heads off my second buggered motor, after increasing the combusion chambers from 45cc to around 52cc. Then mating up an RHB5 turbo with custom manifolds and remote mounted Varijet carby.
The other things I'm doing is cleaning up the motor inside and out, removing mould flashing and blemishes. All the moving internals and their bearing surface edges will be chamfered and linished by hand, making certain every part runs smoothly with all other parts around it.
Here's a couple of pics I took this afternoon. The head is an odd one that is the same casting design as the new heads I have, which I cut into in order to work out material thickness for when I enlarge the chambers.
The block I'm using has been sitting around for a while but appears to have less than 5000km on new pistons, cam, bearings, lifters, pushrods etc... I'm putting more fresh bearings in the bottom end and using the brand new heads off my second buggered motor, after increasing the combusion chambers from 45cc to around 52cc. Then mating up an RHB5 turbo with custom manifolds and remote mounted Varijet carby.
The other things I'm doing is cleaning up the motor inside and out, removing mould flashing and blemishes. All the moving internals and their bearing surface edges will be chamfered and linished by hand, making certain every part runs smoothly with all other parts around it.
Here's a couple of pics I took this afternoon. The head is an odd one that is the same casting design as the new heads I have, which I cut into in order to work out material thickness for when I enlarge the chambers.
Steve.
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- last celtic warrior
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Minor progress, she's starting to come together now that the engineering of the whole thing is done and I'm now left with just painting, assembly and fitting/finishing. The blown motor (the one that has a hole in the top from where the conrod left home) is serving as a buck for measuring and fabricating the plumbing and mountings for everything. Blew the first motor, blew the second one too, so now deliberately blowing the third one before it gets bolted in...
Steve.
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- last celtic warrior
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- Gannon
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Wow!.. you have really put some work into that pipework, thats awesome.
Just curious, why did you take such a long route with the turbo header, why not keep it shorter like the factory one?
Just curious, why did you take such a long route with the turbo header, why not keep it shorter like the factory one?
Current rides: 2016 Mitsubishi Triton GLS & 2004 Forester X
Ongoing Project/Toy: 1987 RX Turbo EA82T, Speeduino ECU, Coil-pack ignition, 440cc Injectors, KONI adjustale front struts, Hybrid L Series/ Liberty AWD 5sp
Past rides: 92 L series turbo converted wagon, 83 Leone GL Sedan, 2004 Liberty GT Sedan & 2001 Outback
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Ongoing Project/Toy: 1987 RX Turbo EA82T, Speeduino ECU, Coil-pack ignition, 440cc Injectors, KONI adjustale front struts, Hybrid L Series/ Liberty AWD 5sp
Past rides: 92 L series turbo converted wagon, 83 Leone GL Sedan, 2004 Liberty GT Sedan & 2001 Outback
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- last celtic warrior
- Junior Member
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I ran the "Y" pipe in the original position for a number of reasons...
1. I determined the best place for the turbo in the engine bay was at the rear keeping most of the heat away from the intake and block.
2. The exhaust gases have had the chance to expand fully by that point and are therefore starting to condense again, thereby lowering back pressure after the turbo and aiding flow.
3. with the turbo not getting so much "still burning" fuel/air right out of the cylinders, there is less heat buildup in the turbo and less transference to the intake end of the turbo.
4. It keeps the main exhaust pipes away from the radiator/plumbing/battery.
5. It looks prettier...
1. I determined the best place for the turbo in the engine bay was at the rear keeping most of the heat away from the intake and block.
2. The exhaust gases have had the chance to expand fully by that point and are therefore starting to condense again, thereby lowering back pressure after the turbo and aiding flow.
3. with the turbo not getting so much "still burning" fuel/air right out of the cylinders, there is less heat buildup in the turbo and less transference to the intake end of the turbo.
4. It keeps the main exhaust pipes away from the radiator/plumbing/battery.
5. It looks prettier...
Steve.
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- brumbyrunner
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Put a temporary motor in steve's car today to get him mobile until he finishes off his motor.
rtcb65
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Redneck Rick.
1997 Gen 3 outback. GT forester wheels . Hopefully more changes to come. Proud Supporter And User of -----------C R O S S B R E D --- P E R F O R M A N C E ---- Products
[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]
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Redneck Rick.
1997 Gen 3 outback. GT forester wheels . Hopefully more changes to come. Proud Supporter And User of -----------C R O S S B R E D --- P E R F O R M A N C E ---- Products
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- last celtic warrior
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The "spare" motor I bought a week ago of Rick (when he replaced it with a rebuilt motor in his car) is going really well in mine, except for damn annoying coolant leaks into the intake thanks to some faulty gasket material. Eradicating the last of that problem tomorrow morning before work (manifold gaskets). Apart from that, and the auto not kicking down properly, it's running great, mind you it's now got a rebuilt carby and my re-manufactured and polished electronic dizzy helping it breathe and ignite those petrol fumes...
Here's the dizzy I went through recently for the new motor. It's looking after the spare motor until the new one is ready for the car.
Oh, and because Rick's car is manual and mine is auto, the rear housing on the motor needed changing or modification to suit my car. I decided to machine the appropriate parts of the housing as we didn't have another auto one free at the moment. And it meant I didn't have to take it apart and reseal everything. It was a good test for the burr I made up for chambering the heads on the turbo motor. The machining was all done freehand with the burr in the die grinder... (These burrs are $95 each, which is why I make my own)
Here's the dizzy I went through recently for the new motor. It's looking after the spare motor until the new one is ready for the car.
Oh, and because Rick's car is manual and mine is auto, the rear housing on the motor needed changing or modification to suit my car. I decided to machine the appropriate parts of the housing as we didn't have another auto one free at the moment. And it meant I didn't have to take it apart and reseal everything. It was a good test for the burr I made up for chambering the heads on the turbo motor. The machining was all done freehand with the burr in the die grinder... (These burrs are $95 each, which is why I make my own)
Steve.
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- last celtic warrior
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A little update on my car. Since the last post a while ago, I've got married to a wonderful woman, moved closer to Maryborough (onto our acreage), been onto a lot of other projects and been using my Subie to commute between home and Ross's place an hour away. She's been doing some miles and getting a fair bit of use including towing stuff and carrying loads.
There's been a few minor additions to it over the last few months, including SatNav, but one thing that's been really getting to me (and stuffing the tyres) was the height of the car. I love the way it looks with the wheels filling the guards and the car's overall chunky appearance, but it meant a lot of tyre scrubbing at highway speeds on really bad roads between home and work. So I decided to compromise and lift the beast a little in order to fix the scrubbing and increase wheel travel and clearance off road, especially since I just fitted a nice set of Simex rubber.
I'll post pics tomorrow, as I didn't have time to take any photos this arvo after finishing the job (with Rick, Ross and Dale doing most of the fitup) in record time (for us). We started after lunch and drove it home at 6pm, after realising a few oversights and making the extra bits and modifying the steering.
I made the lift kit up yesterday and was determined to fit it today before heading home. The big problem with that plan was that I had to attend court this morning, which took up the first half of the day (waiting for my turn). Anyway, it's in now and the car feels great on the road, except for needing a minor wheel alignment and some adjustments to linkages etc tomorrow. Surprisingly the cornering is at least as good as before, but that's due mostly to the extra track width my car has combined with the better camber angle on the front now (the lift kit includes an alteration to the strut angle). Highway running is much more comfortable now and there's no way the tyres can touch any part of the car any more, no matter how hard I push things.
All in all, I'm wrapped. And the cost? A $3 tin of spray enamel, $18 for new longer "grade 8" bolts, and a small bit of welding wire and cold-gal. All the steel is reclaimed scrap from around our yard (left over from other things I've cut up for the steel to build the ramp for my wife's horse truck, a hitching rail, wheel barrow and gates etc). So realistically, it set me back around $30...
There's been a few minor additions to it over the last few months, including SatNav, but one thing that's been really getting to me (and stuffing the tyres) was the height of the car. I love the way it looks with the wheels filling the guards and the car's overall chunky appearance, but it meant a lot of tyre scrubbing at highway speeds on really bad roads between home and work. So I decided to compromise and lift the beast a little in order to fix the scrubbing and increase wheel travel and clearance off road, especially since I just fitted a nice set of Simex rubber.
I'll post pics tomorrow, as I didn't have time to take any photos this arvo after finishing the job (with Rick, Ross and Dale doing most of the fitup) in record time (for us). We started after lunch and drove it home at 6pm, after realising a few oversights and making the extra bits and modifying the steering.
I made the lift kit up yesterday and was determined to fit it today before heading home. The big problem with that plan was that I had to attend court this morning, which took up the first half of the day (waiting for my turn). Anyway, it's in now and the car feels great on the road, except for needing a minor wheel alignment and some adjustments to linkages etc tomorrow. Surprisingly the cornering is at least as good as before, but that's due mostly to the extra track width my car has combined with the better camber angle on the front now (the lift kit includes an alteration to the strut angle). Highway running is much more comfortable now and there's no way the tyres can touch any part of the car any more, no matter how hard I push things.
All in all, I'm wrapped. And the cost? A $3 tin of spray enamel, $18 for new longer "grade 8" bolts, and a small bit of welding wire and cold-gal. All the steel is reclaimed scrap from around our yard (left over from other things I've cut up for the steel to build the ramp for my wife's horse truck, a hitching rail, wheel barrow and gates etc). So realistically, it set me back around $30...
Steve.
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- last celtic warrior
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All sorts of things happening and not happening with this car now... But that's cars, when you have more ideas than time to implement them.
This is part of yesterday's efforts, with a few things needing a tidy up and some basic maintenance...
More news as it comes to hand (or mind).
This is part of yesterday's efforts, with a few things needing a tidy up and some basic maintenance...
More news as it comes to hand (or mind).
Steve.
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