Power steering into Brumby/M.Y.

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rtcb65
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Power steering into Brumby/M.Y.

Post by rtcb65 » Thu Jul 01, 2010 7:38 pm

I have been asked a number of times about Power steering into a brumby. What is needed and how easy is it to fit. So instead of me writing the same thing over and over again, I will do a write up about it. I hope i cover all of it , but if i don't, please feel free to add anything i have missed. Here goes.

I personally , Have come across 2 things that will stop any one fitting power steering to a brumby or a M.Y. wagon, coupe or leone.
The main thing is the holes in the drivers side head . If they are not there . The fit up is a no go. The other reason is mainly in the brumby's . I am only guessing here, but from about 1985 on , we have noticed the vacuum pipe to the brake booster is in the way of the fitting area of the power steering pump. IF yo have the problem with the vacuum hose being in the way. See if you can have the hose moved to pick up vacuum from some where else on the intake manifold. The hole and lump that it is originally from , has to be removed and plugged .

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Redneck Rick.

1997 Gen 3 outback. GT forester wheels . Hopefully more changes to come. Proud Supporter And User of -----------C R O S S B R E D --- P E R F O R M A N C E ---- Products


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rtcb65
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Post by rtcb65 » Thu Jul 01, 2010 7:49 pm

If you have the 3 holes the items to source are , A power steering rack and the lines. Also be sure to get the mount for the passenger side.

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A thermostat housing to suit the power steering. The one for the power steering is longer.

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The triple pulley to go on the crank .

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The power steering pump .

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The back mount for the power steering pump.

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The power steering front mount and it is also the adjuster pulley for the fan belt/ drive belt for the pump.

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rtcb65
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Redneck Rick.

1997 Gen 3 outback. GT forester wheels . Hopefully more changes to come. Proud Supporter And User of -----------C R O S S B R E D --- P E R F O R M A N C E ---- Products


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rtcb65
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Post by rtcb65 » Thu Jul 01, 2010 8:01 pm

Now the hard part,,LOL, most of the time when taking the exhaust bolts out, there is a chance they bring the thread with them. If they do , a helly coil will be needed to put the tread back in , so the exhaust can be bolted back on. .

Next , the plate under the steering rack needs to come off. ( times out of 10, it is tack welded on. So you need to drill the tack welds out . I personally drill right through and use those holes to bolt the plate back on.

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rtcb65
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Redneck Rick.

1997 Gen 3 outback. GT forester wheels . Hopefully more changes to come. Proud Supporter And User of -----------C R O S S B R E D --- P E R F O R M A N C E ---- Products


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rtcb65
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Post by rtcb65 » Thu Jul 01, 2010 8:19 pm

Now it is a simple matter of fitting each item in. Bolt the rack in. It is a good idea to fit new tie rod ends . As there is a good chance you will wreck the old ones , taking them out. Put the pulley on the crank. Put the pump mount on the 3 holes on the head. Put the pump rear mount on the top of the head. Fit the pump. Join the pump lines to the rack . Put the belt on . Adjust the belt with the bolt at the base of the mount . ( the 3 hole one) once you reach the right tension . Do the bearing bolt up to lock the belt tension. Dont forget the longer thermostat housing , and refill with water. Once you are at the point of putting power steering oil in . I was told to fill the pump , lift the front wheels off the ground and turn the steering wheels from lock to lock , with the engine running. Then recheck the oil level. Going from lock to lock is ment to bleed any air out of the power steering system.
rtcb65
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Redneck Rick.

1997 Gen 3 outback. GT forester wheels . Hopefully more changes to come. Proud Supporter And User of -----------C R O S S B R E D --- P E R F O R M A N C E ---- Products


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rtcb65
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Post by rtcb65 » Thu Jul 01, 2010 8:21 pm

If i have forgotten anything , or you come across anything i have not mentioned , Please add to thread . Or feel free to ask.. I hope this write up helps.
rtcb65
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Redneck Rick.

1997 Gen 3 outback. GT forester wheels . Hopefully more changes to come. Proud Supporter And User of -----------C R O S S B R E D --- P E R F O R M A N C E ---- Products


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El_Freddo
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Post by El_Freddo » Fri Jul 02, 2010 2:36 pm

Good stuff Rick!

My tip for the brake booster vacuum hose is to located it on the passenger's side of the inlet manifold. On Gail's '89 model brumby the inlet manifold had on the passenger's side the same holes as on the driver's side, so I simply swapped one of the plug grubs for the tab that the brake booster's manifold vacuum pipe connects to then extended the vacuum hose from the one way valve down.

Simple, and stock ;)

Cheers

Bennie
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Post by rtcb65 » Tue Jun 28, 2011 10:03 am

If yours has a 2 inch lift , the only thing i have been able to put together that suits the laws. is back to back power steering units.To explain, find two M.Y. power steering joints. then split them . then make a combo out of them as in , the two longest ends back to back , or the two shortest ends back to back . You may need the flex joint also . I found the only way to get it to fit was to put the two ends on the car first , then fit the flex joint in .
rtcb65
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1997 Gen 3 outback. GT forester wheels . Hopefully more changes to come. Proud Supporter And User of -----------C R O S S B R E D --- P E R F O R M A N C E ---- Products


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Post by guyph_01 » Tue Jun 28, 2011 11:21 am

Hi guys,

Sry to hijack the thread:p
Just to let people know if got the pump, bracket, lines, extended thermostat housing, triple pulley but no Rack. Open to offers:)
Also have the aircon stuff with wiring, bracket, pump, lines and both cores.
Happy to ship via e-go. Pm me if interested:)
The project, EJ22 --->>> EJ25 Quad CAM:D touring wagon
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El_Freddo
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Post by El_Freddo » Wed Jun 29, 2011 12:13 am

rtcb65 wrote:If yours has a 2 inch lift , the only thing i have been able to put together that suits the laws. is back to back power steering units.To explain, find two M.Y. power steering joints. then split them . then make a combo out of them as in , the two longest ends back to back , or the two shortest ends back to back . You may need the flex joint also . I found the only way to get it to fit was to put the two ends on the car first , then fit the flex joint in .
Was this post meant for the thread Steering extension link has anyone got one (sorry for the double up)?

Just that I don't see anyone asking about the lift in this thread - or just a note for those looking for info?

I'm confused :???:

Cheers

Bennie
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Post by rtcb65 » Mon Sep 12, 2011 9:29 am

El_Freddo wrote:Was this post meant for the thread Steering extension link has anyone got one (sorry for the double up)?

Just that I don't see anyone asking about the lift in this thread - or just a note for those looking for info?

I'm confused :???:

Cheers

Bennie
Hey Bennie ,

It is just more info i remembered later after doing the write up.
rtcb65
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1997 Gen 3 outback. GT forester wheels . Hopefully more changes to come. Proud Supporter And User of -----------C R O S S B R E D --- P E R F O R M A N C E ---- Products


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Post by Proton mouse » Wed Feb 05, 2014 10:03 pm

I would like to add to this very informative thread, a couple of points.

A few years ago I swapped out the old EA81 motor in my 'MY' wagon for a recoed unit
only to find that the pump front mounting bracket, to head holes weren't there (as mentioned
above in Ricks write up) However, don't let this stop you! As the boss' are there in the head and are
easily drilled out and tapped. (I did this out of the car but I think it could be done in situ)

The next point was found out the hard way by me 6 months ago.....
NOT ALL BRUMBY CROSS MEMBERS can take the 'MY' power steering rack!!
Apparently a small percentage will only take the narrower non power steering set up. (mine is a '90 model Ag-quip Brumby)
There is no fix for this that I know, other than having to source a cross member that
can accommodate power steering :(
I don't have definitive measurements of the 2 variants so probably the easiest
way to check would be to hold the p/s support hoop bracket, over its mounting holes
and see if the x-members internal hoop dia' is the same as the bracket. Do this before you start to rip out the old std rack!!
You can change the x-member without removing the engine but obviously it is a pita!!

A 3rd and bonus point!! Re adapting steering linkage with a 2 inch lift kit.
Use 2 standard rack to column uni's, joined together, with the cut off splined end of an unused/unwanted 'MY or 'L', steering column.
My old 'MY' wagon has been running this set up for over 10 years.

Cheers and hope this helps!
John.

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Post by Macca » Tue Nov 17, 2015 8:32 am

Brumby power steering Ex 2001 Forester. VASS guy has rejected it due to too much angle between steering column (original) and rack input shaft(forester). He says 30 Deg max and we have about 60 Deg. There is a double universal joint joining them and he wants the valve in the pump adjusted to suit.

What I need to know is the angle of the input shaft on the MY series power steering input shaft at a greater angle, or would it be easier to just find an MY rack and put that in. He is trying to convince me to put the original steering back in but we have fitted the EJ20 engine (with pump) and transmission, so I would prefer to do the whole lot instead.

Any advice/tips Please

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Post by TOONGA » Tue Nov 17, 2015 7:42 pm

showthread.php?t=26092

Two answers in that thread for you already

Use the MY power steering rack with modified lines.

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