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Posted: Sat Oct 18, 2008 2:42 pm
by rtcb65
The flywheel is finished and i have cleaned up the shift linkages ready for the bushes. Also since my car has a 2" lift , i made up a couple of lift blocks for the L tail shaft .

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Posted: Wed Nov 26, 2008 7:39 pm
by rtcb65
I need some conformation on the following . We are about to the mods on the L linkages to fit the M.Y. . IS this right :- Shorten the mount and arm that the gear stick sits in.
:- The linkage arm to be shortened and have a light angle mod.
:- Range leaver to be lengthened

Can some one please let me know if this is right . I dont wish to waste a shift set.

Thanks to anyone who helps.

Posted: Fri Nov 28, 2008 6:08 pm
by Phizinza
I just suck a 5sp D/R into an MY sedan and apart from massive trans tunnel mods the shifters went in prefect with no mods.
I used the original 2wd shifter rubber mount, turned it 90degrees and bolted the 5sp's rubber mount to it. Cut the hole out about 30mm to the rear and had to cut some out the front to clear the gear shifter. I have pics, I'll piut them up after dinner maybe.

Posted: Fri Nov 28, 2008 6:38 pm
by SUBIIE
ahh,

joined this thread a bit late but..........
most things to do with a MY to L series gearbox swap are in this website (see the address in the signature).

should answer all questions.

makes a massive difference after the old ea81 gearbox.

good luck

Posted: Fri Nov 28, 2008 7:09 pm
by kevmif
question for all you gurus.... what if the motor was swapped out as well? Is that possible?

Posted: Fri Nov 28, 2008 7:57 pm
by Phizinza
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Pics as promised.

Posted: Fri Nov 28, 2008 9:38 pm
by rtcb65
Thank you all for the asist. It helps alittle .

Posted: Tue Aug 04, 2009 5:55 pm
by rtcb65
This is still going ahead . Just going into a different car. So if still interested in how it happens . Keep an eye out.

Posted: Tue Aug 04, 2009 9:11 pm
by AlpineRaven
Interested to see how you go.. You're doing this because of 5th gear is that why?
Cheers
AP

Posted: Tue Aug 04, 2009 9:22 pm
by rtcb65
AlpineRaven wrote:Interested to see how you go.. You're doing this because of 5th gear is that why?
Cheers
AP
Hey A.R.

This is a test run. 1/ to see if we can do it.
2/ The low range and 5th gear
3/ to get to know the box so later we can remove the low range to put in a awd box , if i can ever find one.

Posted: Tue Aug 04, 2009 9:28 pm
by AlpineRaven
rtcb65 wrote:Hey A.R.

This is a test run. 1/ to see if we can do it.
2/ The low range and 5th gear
3/ to get to know the box so later we can remove the low range to put in a awd box , if i can ever find one.
Fair enough.. yeah it'll work out well. If its gonna be highway car with low amount of hills you could consider fitting taller ratios.
You could use single range box instead of removing low range or find dual range AWD box.
Cheers
AP

Posted: Wed Aug 26, 2009 5:39 pm
by rtcb65
Here are some picks i hope can help any one wishing to make up the selectors for the conversion. The gear stick shape is a personal thing of course. Shape it to suit your self.

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Posted: Tue Sep 08, 2009 12:14 pm
by the gumbi brumby
good thread this one
now begining to dought i can pull it off alone

Posted: Tue Sep 08, 2009 4:20 pm
by rtcb65
Another small update on the thread. We used the L series starter , but it needs to be spaced out abit. Most people put a washer between the starter and the bell housing. I personally didn't like that. I am just picky. So made up a spacer plate to do the job.

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When it came to the gearbox mounts. the L series are newer so we picked them. With that choice , new mounts to attach the mount to the box had to be made.

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Depending if you have a lift kit or not the manual sway bar may get in the way. If you have a 2" lift or more , it doesn't seem to matter. If not lifted , you may need to swap out the manual sway bar for the auto. The auto one has a small curl piece in it.

Posted: Tue Sep 08, 2009 5:01 pm
by Matt
Hey guys about how much needs to be cut off the linkages? Could you maybe post up some pics with deminsions add to them in paint or something?

Side note can you email me your address rick so i can get that engine drop off. :-)

Cheers
Matt

Posted: Tue Sep 08, 2009 5:36 pm
by rtcb65
Just remembered one other thing. Tail shaft : some people get a one piece shaft made to fit. Others put a flat piece of flat steel across the floor and bolt the two piece ( L series ) shaft to it. Not good idea in my eyes , torque could twist it. So what we did for Ross's car was to make up a cross member with the mounts on it.

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Posted: Wed Sep 09, 2009 9:15 am
by steptoe
NO LINKAGE CUT on L Series 5 speed d/r 4WD into my MV Brumby, same as MY body.

Posted: Wed Sep 09, 2009 3:36 pm
by rtcb65
steptoe wrote:NO LINKAGE CUT on L Series 5 speed d/r 4WD into my MV Brumby, same as MY body.
You were lucky steptoe. On the M.Y. wagon, to get the gear stick to come up through the M.Y. shifter hole nice and neat, we had to do the cuts. Did you have to do any body cutting of any kind to get your set to fit. The way we did it , no cutting to the body of any kind was done. Sorry, 1 hole was drilled, to assist the mounting of the back of the shifter mount.

Posted: Sat Sep 19, 2009 10:17 pm
by Matt
Hey guys, How far do you need to space the starter motor out from the bell housing?

Posted: Sat Sep 19, 2009 10:22 pm
by rtcb65
Matt wrote:Hey guys, How far do you need to space the starter motor out from the bell housing?
Hey Matt, Most space the L series starter the thickness of a good heavy washer. That is the thickness we used to make the spacer plate.

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