Woooohooo! It must have felt fantastic taking it for that small raz around the block despite the tune (or lack thereof and other issues)!Silverbullet wrote: ↑Fri Jan 26, 2024 6:58 pmProgress today, she moves!
Started with a cardboard template of course (not pictured)
Gave the stay rod the cut and shut treatment, then both a new lick of satin black of course.
Fired her up and attempted to back out. Some faff with the clutch not disengaging, me winding it all the way in, moved it, then the clutch decided it was actually too far in so I had to put it backBut it moves and changes gears, time for a much needed bath (it was diabolically filthy with dust)
Couldn't resist going for a lap around the back streets, which immediately revealed huge problems with the tune/base map. Death rattle as soon as fed any sniff of throttle into it when moving. Took 15 degrees of timing out of the map, better but still not enough. Put more fuel in the fuel map, better but still not enough. Every time it would start easier and idle better, the ECU and I are both learning. It really is time for a dyno session now, I shouldn't drive it any more for risk of damaging the engine. It was weird with the badly tuned run, it sounded and felt exactly like the old EA twin carb
Man was it ever weird being in the old girl again after 6 months in the Foz, it felt so low and cramped in comparison
The tuner had some excuse about moving house. So I moved my day off, re-scheduled the tow truck and have to wait one more day. 
(have had issues like this since I got it back on the road 2 years ago) I suspected mud-wasp blockages since I had the vent lines on the car open while the tank was out and long story short, yep, no fewer than SIX(!!) separate mud blockages in the vent lines. All 3 that go up to the vapor separator were blocked, the hard line around the side of the tank, and the L shaped one from the middle to the side. After I got them cleared still couldn't fill at full speed. Pulled the large rubber hose from the filler neck vent off at the tank end and put the air gun into it blowing back up towards the cap, blocked, then POP hissssss. Filler neck was then full of dusty sandy debris...nice Those teeny tiny little solitary wasps are a true menace, any little hole, oriface or hose open to them they will block it with mud within weeks. Won't be driving it for a while. The part I'm most sad about is the engine is probably going to suffer damage now until I fix the misfire since it can't be driven and broken in properly. But I have literally no other choice but to plow on regardless. 
Only other thing I can think of is a restriction at the hanger pump return line, even then this is a stretch. Even this I don't think would help anything given recent experience, there's no guarantee any of it would work properly. I think to solve it that way, nothing less than a perfectly running, driving car would need to give up its donor manifold to see if it fixes my issues.
Yes, and that I'm stubborn as a mule and I will beat this thing into submission one way or other
Can't be changed, there's no need. Some sensor inputs allow software enabled, pull up/pull down resistors (only temp sensors really)Other thing to ask: what voltage does the ECU use for the various sensors and can this be changed within the ECU parameters?
I'm not going that far, no space or budget for a donor vehicle. I'd sooner make a new engine loom from scratch because it would be a better end result. But just can't buy the plug and pin connector kits for the factory hardware for love nor money.If you’re going to the point of a donor vehicle you might as well cut down the factory wiring loom, throw that in and call it a day…
The only factory sensors I'm using currently are cam, crank and TPS. Cam and crank readings are all rock solid with no errors. TPS signal jumps around even with the TPS disconnected which is truly bizarre, can't work out why. Got a new genuine TPS coming anyway. The other sensors I mentioned are already new from Haltech. The ECU has its own onboard MAP sensor.What’s the plan now, all new sensors from Haltech or Subaru? That’ll add up quickly
Cheers
Bennie
Silverbullet:Silverbullet wrote: ↑Fri Feb 09, 2024 10:15 pmI'm not going that far, no space or budget for a donor vehicle. I'd sooner make a new engine loom from scratch because it would be a better end result. But just can't buy the plug and pin connector kits for the factory hardware for love nor money.
So if my fuel pressure is still too high now we can't blame the return line, as this is the same size as the return line in the Commodore which the fuel pump is out of! 
Got a neat little tool which put a barb of sorts in the end of the tube. It's bolt shaped with 3 ball bearings that poke out incrementally from the inside. 
Was going to wait on those results before I pulled the trigger on the new wiring gear but don't think I can wait that long. But alas too many bills all at once this fortnight, the wiring will have to wait anyway. That was around 2 and a half hives worth. I run 9 conventional honey frames in a 10 frame box on my hives so they build the comb out super deep. This gets me more honey per box than using 10 frames. Around 25kg from one box if everything is perfect (it rarely isEl_Freddo wrote: ↑Sun Feb 18, 2024 8:56 pmHijack/side discussion:And how many hives are we taking for that amount of honey? That’s a fair effort! I’m early in my bee keeping journey with a flow hive - I want to clean out the flow frames this winter… anyway, probably should start a new discussion about that! Do you sell your honey or are you into it so much that you’ll eat that amount with your family across the year? (Seems excessive!)
) usually closer to 20. I've seen flow hive frames and they're pretty deep, but only 6 or 8 frames in the honey super? Cleaning the frames was my main concern with those, being all plastic but I think you can completely dismantle the halves correct? I sterilize my wood frames with steam and fire, not really plastic compatible Eventually discovered my pickup-come-return hard line inside the fuel tank is completely blocked solid. Which is very very strange since it wasn't like that when I put petrol in it for the first time. Anyway I just dropped the fuel tank and re-routed the return into the commodore MRA return port, easy, fuel pressure was then stable 43.5 psi with the engine running. I don't remember hearing the fans come on either. Also happy to report nothing has leaked out of it since being parked, not one drop, also nice! In regards to "cleaning" frames, one thing you might struggle with is propolis on plastic frames. Depends on the colony, some make more propolis than others. They use it to glue everything together and block up holes and gaps they don't like. It's a darker brown than the wax and very sticky. I chewed on a piece once and no joke it tasted strongly of eucalyptus menthol! 
