Silverbullets' resto: Engine, gearbox, suspension

[Silverbullet]

How does the Haltek know when to fire the other two cylinders? And are you sure you know which cylinders are firing?

The ECU knows at all times where the engine position is by comparing crank and cam sensor readings, and fires the ignition outputs accordingly. I'm only using 2 ignition outputs (for a 2 coil pack, waste spark system) I could tell just by how it sounded, the galloping lethargic attempt at starting. Lord knows I've had enough experience with faulty ignition systems in the past to tell when somethings wrong

If it runs on brake cleaner that would suggest the coil pack is fine and either points to an issue with injector timing, blocked injectors or a fuel system problem.

It was all of the above It didn't run reliably on brake cleaner, just one single time for about 3 seconds in a whole days worth of cranking. With the new coil well, you saw in the video it just ran perfectly first time

In my mind the fuel pressure regulator should be dumping as much fuel as possible in the return line at idle and when the engine is off.
Have you heard your fuel pump prime and are you getting fuel at the intake manifold from the inlet hose and the return hose?

I would thought so too except I got another FPR from a Subaru wreckers who said it came off a working engine, and it does exactly the same thing as the old FPR. Not a drop comes down the return line when the engine isn't running. Or as I discovered today, even after the engine had run for a minute or two. There was still no fuel in my milk bottle catch can at the rear of the car, where I had the return line routed just before it went back into the tank. I need to investigate this further.
Yes it primes and yes there is fuel going into the rails up front, I sprayed myself in the face with it today when I pulled a hose off after I thought I'd bled down the pressure, fuel pump hadn't even run for 2 hours by that point.

What programming was done to get this to start on the new computer?

Not sure how to answer this, I've only ever had the one Haltech connected to it. I've been trying different base maps and configurations for cam and crank sensors for a day and a half. Rang the tech support number and the helpful bloke on the other end was able to remote log in to my laptop and change settings, turns out I wasn't that far off. He left me at saying the sensors were reading all good, it should be running based off what he could see. He recommended to check fuel and spark. This is when I cleaned the injectors and replaced the coil then, bingo

[El_Freddo]

Well there’s the “beauty” of starting a post and finishing it after dealing with kids and family lyfe! I started that last post before 7pm and it took that long to get it sorted that you made a follow up post that I didn’t see until after I hit the post button Sam!

Did you try starting it with the old coil pack or just assume that it was dead and swapped it out for the new one straight up? The injectors and fuel rails sounded nasty with what you found in that clean out.

Before getting it tuned I’d recommend pulling the injectors and having an injector specialist place clean them up and flow test them to ensure they’re all squirting the same. This will set you up well for a tuning session to make it drivable and reliable.

Well done, and you were certainly excited in the video!!

Cheers

Bennie

[El_Freddo]

That’s awesome about the support from Halteck! I bet that’s reassuring knowing that you’ve got that line of communication/inquiry when needed.

Interesting about the FPR, I’ll have to look into this one at some point, actually that’ll be easy since I’ve got the turbo project setup with the fuel pick up and return hanging in a jerry can. I’ll report back after the next time I have a play with it.

So, after firing it up because you can, what’s the game plan now?

Cheers

Bennie

[Silverbullet]

The support was great, part of the reason why I was happy to spend the money on this ECU to begin with. It's all 100% aussie made by car enthusiasts like us, there's guys in Sydney happy to help over the phone whenever needed. I can see why (nearly) every build on MCM and definitely every build on the skid factory all use Haltech. And also now many guys in the US are using all aussie ECU's on their race/drag cars and whatnot.

This being my first time ever playing with EFI stuff, it's frustrating not knowing if the FPR is faulty or if that's just how they are. It's possible the pump isn't supplying enough pressure due to the way I've got it configured in the software, I may have it set to PWM control and not "on/off". This would mean the pump speed is varying based on what the fuel pressure sensor is reading. Part of my early thoughts about running a dead-head system with no return or FPR, might still be loaded in the ECU.

Now I have to get it running, (fix all the leaks ) get the base timing set properly, get the idle speed under control and then do the 20 minute heat cycle the engine builder told me to do, then change the oil/filter. Then book a dyno session

[Silverbullet]

Another 6 hours spent on it today, another day ended in frustration This thread is turning into a blog but I need to vent I guess

Turns out the P/S lines weren't leaking, so I dunno where the puddle of oil came from that was under the car after the first start right below the P/S rack. First start today I intended to do the 20 minute run-in as instructed but was stopped by the engine hunting and stalling. I eventually found the catalytic converter was glowing red, checked the AFR and yep, 10:1 way too rich. None of the corrections or controls were doing their job to bring down the fuel mixture so I brute-forced the fuel table to inject less fuel, got the AFR to 11.5:1, still crap. Locked down the timing correction, it was 20 degrees retarded, this smoothed things out and raised the idle. Leaning out the injectors also brought up the idle, now at 2500rpm. Idle control is not working, even with me changing the signals to the IACV manually the idle did not change so now I must assume the idle control valve is also faulty. 2nd hand parts strike again. The IACV flap was closed when I removed it, for idle to be raised it must be wide open. Made a block-off plate for the coolant channel in an attempt to see what the flap was doing with engine running, car wouldn't start. Put the IACV back on, still won't start. Go to check if I left the injectors turned off or something, laptop has turned itself off without me telling it. Somehow it used up 45% of its battery in about 15 minutes when I wasn't looking.

Took that as a sign to call it quits for the day

In other news I was right about the fuel pump, had it set to duty cycle. Set it to "on/off" control and could hear fuel gurgling down the return line.

Might have to bench test that IACV to see if it actually works.

[Subyroo]

Another 6 hours spent on it today, another day ended in frustration This thread is turning into a blog but I need to vent I guess

Took that as a sign to call it quits for the day

Beer time! https://imgur.com/G8WyRkL

[El_Freddo]

Sam, I’d double check to ensure the Halteck controls the IACV or if you need to adjust your throttle butterfly to set idle. I say this as many aftermarket ECUs we’re not capable of controlling factory IACVs, I’m not up with the latest in aftermarket ECU stuff because it’s not something I’m in to so I don’t know if your model of ECU can do it or not.

It must be frustrating knowing it runs! Good observation about the cat glowing.

I’m hoping it’s something simple you missed in the programming the other day that’s a quick fix to get the project moving forward again.

Would you consider doing the 20min heat cycle thing on the dyno where the tuner can also look over the operation to ensure everything is safe and working as it should?

Cheers

Bennie

[Silverbullet]

Yes, it can control the IACV with a single wire. I put on a bug-eye throttle body because it has the 3 wire IACV. Just power, ground and signal. The original TB had a 6 wire stepper motor IACV, which only the Elite 2500 and above can control (super big step up in size and $$$) I've ordered a new IACV from RockAuto, so the week after next it should be here. After removing the old one I see it is slightly open, connecting it to 12v should at least send it to home position but no, completely dead.

New IACV and a new set of injectors are one the way, I've reason to believe one of the old ones is stuck open giving super rich mixture.

Might have to do the first heat cycle on the dyno, probably safer to do it that way. Just have to find/decide on a place to take it!

[El_Freddo]

Well that’ll be a bonus for those cold starts once you get it sorted!

I just can’t fathom how you’re having so many issues with original sensors/parts etc. I’ve had engines and parts sitting around for long periods of time and when put into use they haven’t had an issue. What you’re experiencing goes against what I’d expect of genuine Subaru used parts in general.

I’m looking forward to the next update with the new parts installed and this thing properly operational for its dyno run

Cheers

Bennie

[Silverbullet]

I just can’t fathom how you’re having so many issues with original sensors/parts etc. I’ve had engines and parts sitting around for long periods of time and when put into use they haven’t had an issue. What you’re experiencing goes against what I’d expect of genuine Subaru used parts in general.

Have to say it surprised me as well. Guess I just got unlucky in this case! Another downside to not having a running/driving donor car to swap the engine out of.

Progress today; my new injectors and IACV turned up so I got them in today after work in about 1 hour. Couldn't resist plugging in the laptop and firing the engine up to see if anything changed. Was glad to see it start right up, a bit lumpy until the fuel rails purged of air I guess. Good news is the AFR was more stable and controllable (no more glowing cat) and the idle speed was changing up and down with changing values I was watching on screen, success! Although still idling too high. But didn't have time to change the idle table before I noticed something wrong with the fuel pump. It was running 100% whenever the key was on, despite the 2 sec prime pulse.

So looks like I killed the solid state relay by forgetting to put a flyback diode across the pump motor. Two steps forward, one step back! Good thing I can get a new one at Jaycar on the way home tomorrow.

[Subyroo]

I just can’t fathom how you’re having so many issues with original sensors/parts etc. I’ve had engines and parts sitting around for long periods of time and when put into use they haven’t had an issue. What you’re experiencing goes against what I’d expect of genuine Subaru used parts in general.

So looks like I killed the solid state relay by forgetting to put a flyback diode across the pump motor. Two steps forward, one step back! Good thing I can get a new one at Jaycar on the way home tomorrow.

Even though though it is a small part in the context of things, the $'s all add up in the long run.

[El_Freddo]

I’m glad you got it to come back to life so easily. Hopefully it’s happy days from here on in!

That solid state relay setup, just the relay died and not the pump? Got to be happy with that over a dead intank (expensive) fuel pump.

I’m looking forward to the next update!

Cheers

Bennie

[Silverbullet]

That solid state relay setup, just the relay died and not the pump? Got to be happy with that over a dead intank (expensive) fuel pump.

Just the relay died. Being electronic/solid state it is a sensitive device and I forgot the diode to protect it. It was written in the installation guide, "Inductive loads MUST have a flyback diode!"

Got a new one at Jaycar, fitted it today plus the diode and we're back in business. I peeled the Haltech sticker off the old one and it is the exact same make and model part as the Jaycar one, nice

Bit more of a fiddle today with the laptop and I still can't get the idle down. I played with the throttle cable and the physical end stop to no avail. Think there's too many correction tables and other stuff meddling with the idle/mixture/ignition control that I just have no understanding of. Think it's time to do the first oil change and put it on a towtruck to the dyno expert. I think it will run reliably enough now to not waste his time. After I've made/fitted the pitch stopper rod and the final exhaust hanger bracket.

In other news I fitted my (now leak tested) franken-heater tap made from a London taxi tap. It actually turned out great and works perfectly. Still would not recommend to anyone, it is far too much work and you need to know how to TIG weld

Can't remember if I already shared these photos, they're old. I had to extend that lower-most pipe by about 100mm or more towards the firewall to reach the factory heater hose.

[El_Freddo]

That heater two replacement looks intense! Glad to hear the effort was worth it in the end and good advice to avoid this unit too.

You’re on your own with the programming/tuning of this beast until you get it to the dyno. Hopefully the dudes there are happy to share info and knowledge with you.

Cheers

Bennie

[Silverbullet]

Progress today, she moves! I made the last bracket (I think) for this conversion project being the engine stay rod bracket. Just for fun(?) and being that I started later in the evening, I made this one entirely without power tools except a cordless drill, and the welder of course. I tell ya, cutting through that much 5mm plate with a hacksaw and hand file really makes the finished product feel special and valuable

Started with a cardboard template of course (not pictured)




Gave the stay rod the cut and shut treatment, then both a new lick of satin black of course.



Fired her up and attempted to back out. Some faff with the clutch not disengaging, me winding it all the way in, moved it, then the clutch decided it was actually too far in so I had to put it back But it moves and changes gears, time for a much needed bath (it was diabolically filthy with dust)


Couldn't resist going for a lap around the back streets, which immediately revealed huge problems with the tune/base map. Death rattle as soon as fed any sniff of throttle into it when moving. Took 15 degrees of timing out of the map, better but still not enough. Put more fuel in the fuel map, better but still not enough. Every time it would start easier and idle better, the ECU and I are both learning. It really is time for a dyno session now, I shouldn't drive it any more for risk of damaging the engine. It was weird with the badly tuned run, it sounded and felt exactly like the old EA twin carb Had a small scare with the P/S pump sounding like it was up the creek for a while, seems it took ages to actually burp/bleed the air out.

Man was it ever weird being in the old girl again after 6 months in the Foz, it felt so low and cramped in comparison

[El_Freddo]

Whoa you’re game taking it for a drive of any sort out the driveway!

Well done on getting it moving under its own steam! That bracket looks good and solid. Do I spy a second one in the bottom of the first pic? Trophy or mk1 that didn’t work out?

And yes it’s interesting what you get used to when you regularly drive one vehicle all the time! I remember going from Ruby Scoo to Sunnie the Brumby and just the sitting position in the body of the vehicle was so much different! Of course the lift, EJ and the 5spd also made a huge difference! The 5spd feels much more refined compared to the EA81 “tractor spec” 4spd!

So now you wait for some dyno time, I hope you’re not waiting for long. Know if anyone that tunes Subaru engines? They’re the ones I’d be aiming for if it were me.

Cheers

Bennie

[Silverbullet]

Heh, yeah I just couldn't resist After washing it, just looked too good to walk away from for the day.

That's all the same bracket, just different stages of completion

I was hoping the guys that did the engine build could tune it, they're the premier high performance Subaru tuners in Adelaide building race cars etc. But they don't do Haltech There's a few Haltech tuners in Adelaide, I'll try them and see what their waiting list is like. I'm expecting it to be longer than I'd like. I met a guy last week who has booked his dyno session for end of next month...never mind the car is only 20% complete and he hasn't even started on the wiring yet

We'll see how it goes

[Subyroo]

Heh, yeah I just couldn't resist After washing it, just looked too good to walk away from for the day.

That's all the same bracket, just different stages of completion

I was hoping the guys that did the engine build could tune it, they're the premier high performance Subaru tuners in Adelaide building race cars etc. But they don't do Haltech There's a few Haltech tuners in Adelaide, I'll try them and see what their waiting list is like. I'm expecting it to be longer than I'd like. I met a guy last week who has booked his dyno session for end of next month...never mind the car is only 20% complete and he hasn't even started on the wiring yet

We'll see how it goes

See if you can be listed as a "standby booking" if his Suby isn't ready.

[El_Freddo]

That's all the same bracket, just different stages of completion

Ah yes, that’s what I get for looking at the pic with a dim screen under lights… rookie mistake!

I’m with Subyroo - suss out that mob old mate booked with and if you’re happy with them contact them to put you on the stand by list if they’ve got one.

It would be cool to be there to see the process and pick up any tuning tips, something that would be worth asking if time allows you to be there.

Cheers

Bennie

[Silverbullet]

It's booked in for Wednesday 7th

I will hang around for the first hour or two to answer questions/fix problems. They said it could take all day so might not want to stay, but I'll be on on call to come back and fix any issues that come up. Hopefully they're OK with me filming a dyno pull on my phone.