Rebuilding an ea82

jims · Post by **jims** » Wed Jan 23, 2013 5:08 pm

Thanks guys. I just got a quote from Auto One in Kalamunda for a set of eight for $78 dollars. Won't get cheaper than that I think

steptoe · Post by **steptoe** » Wed Jan 23, 2013 8:26 pm

Set or one !

Need to see this one to believe it , less than $10 each !!

jims · Post by **jims** » Wed Jan 23, 2013 9:37 pm

Yeah a set.

Cliff R · Post by **Cliff R** » Thu Jan 24, 2013 3:49 pm

Just to be clear, when I bought mine REPCO were suggesting a set were for one side only, ie, 4 off.
When you say a set, are we talking about 4 or 8 ?
Are you able to let us know an AUTO 1 part number and brand ?

jims · Post by **jims** » Sun Jan 27, 2013 6:13 pm

So I have ordered all the bits and pieces I will need for the rebuild. Everything is coming from America except for those valve lifters (I will post product number and confirm their price when I finalise that order).

Coming from the states is: full engine gasket and seal kit; a set of main bearings and big end bearings; a set of piston rings; and a timing belt kit with pulleys and idler. Even with the shipping costs it has turned out much cheaper to order from overseas. Bennie (thanks!) turned me onto rockauto.com which seems to have everything you would ever need for this engine.

My next question is, has anyone used a cylinder honing tool before? Any suggests on what is good and what isn't? There are a couple of different types available on eBay.

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Draper-56246 ... _500wt_689

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/3PC-FLEX-HON ... 257wt_1002

At the moment I'm leaning toward the first one... The "stone" setup. These come in a variety of different grits though. I think the one in the link above is 180 grit. Any recommendations on the grit strength I should be looking for?

Cheers,
James

steptoe · Post by **steptoe** » Sun Jan 27, 2013 8:09 pm

I can't recall the name um Cross Threads in Sydney ? were agents for the hone stones on a bottle brush arrangement - no flat stones to break. All I have ever used/borrowed in many years

Post by **TOONGA** » Sun Jan 27, 2013 8:24 pm

I would look at this type of hone

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/3-Engine-Cyl ... 35c347fb34

this is a 240 grit but there are coarser or finer available and you will need the one for your bore size

TOONGA

steptoe · Post by **steptoe** » Sun Jan 27, 2013 8:40 pm

Flex Hone is the baby !! another quick response from 1800 TOONGA help desk

Post by **TOONGA** » Sun Jan 27, 2013 8:53 pm

steptoe wrote:Flex Hone is the baby !! another quick response from 1800 TOONGA help desk

LOL

not sure I would want to ring that help desk

TOONGA

jims · Post by **jims** » Sun Jan 27, 2013 11:54 pm

Great, thanks guys! What grit would be best?

tony · Post by **tony** » Mon Jan 28, 2013 1:58 am

I use a flex hone but you have to be careful if you withdraw it too far with drill running you can break the stones as the spring pops the legs out. I have also used the bottle brush type, hard to say which is better except they don't break as easy. don't over hone you are removing material from the bores
if you check a Gregorys for any make of car they always have a section on using hones.
did you get the measurements checked for your crank and bores to order the new bearings and rings?

jims · Post by **jims** » Mon Jan 28, 2013 11:34 am

Thanks Tony,

Bores were still within the acceptable original specs (so have ordered standard size rings).

I didn't realise about getting the crank measured though and so just bought standard sized bearings. Do you think this will be a problem? Should I have it mic-ed up too?

Cheers, James

jims · Post by **jims** » Mon Jan 28, 2013 11:07 pm

For those of you who have used the Flexhone, what grit did you use to prepare your cylinders for new rings?

tony · Post by **tony** » Tue Jan 29, 2013 1:01 am

don't know wat the grade of hone is just seems fairly fine.
I would suggest it is very important to have the crank checked a loose big end can be disastrous and costly, and you already have it apart.

steptoe · Post by **steptoe** » Tue Jan 29, 2013 6:30 am

also expecting Sam to yell out "end float, end float!!" as well. I always pay the machine shop to check my cranks. With EA81 had one crank on borderline so was encouraged to take in another that was better and got it linished. Had another EA81 crank that was obviously needy of grinding or chucking - dirty great grooves in it , was my 84's original crank that had had a long hard life up near Moree

jims · Post by **jims** » Wed Jan 30, 2013 12:24 am

Great, thanks guys. So a Flexhone with maybe 240grit?

Silverbullet · Post by **Silverbullet** » Wed Jan 30, 2013 4:42 pm

steptoe wrote:also expecting Sam to yell out "end float, end float!!" as well. I always pay the machine shop to check my cranks. With EA81 had one crank on borderline so was encouraged to take in another that was better and got it linished. Had another EA81 crank that was obviously needy of grinding or chucking - dirty great grooves in it , was my 84's original crank that had had a long hard life up near Moree

End float! End float!

If you get your crank ground at a machine shop, I would suggest measuring the journals afterwards yourself or getting someone to measure it in front of you and write it down. I didn't and my engine lasted about 15 k's

Although I don't know what caused it for sure, but the main bearing in the middle of the block failed.

jims · Post by **jims** » Thu Jan 31, 2013 5:22 pm

Just a quick question: can I reuse my old head bolts or should I source new ones for the rebuild?

YouTube · Post by **El_Freddo** » Thu Jan 31, 2013 5:50 pm

jims wrote:Just a quick question: can I reuse my old head bolts or should I source new ones for the rebuild?

Re-use the old ones. They're not a tensile bolt like the EJ's so there's no need to replace them when you do a headgasket.

Cheers

Bennie

jims · Post by **jims** » Sun Feb 24, 2013 7:53 pm

Hey guys,

So i have got a bit more work done on the engine: I installed new main bearings and big end bearings as well as new front and rear main seals; I deglazed the cylinders and re installed the old pistons with new rings. I have lapped the drivers side valves and installed that head with a new gasket:

[ATTACH]3989[/ATTACH]

I'm having trouble now with the passengers side valves now though. After lapping the seats I installed the valves and sprayed some carbie cleaner down the intake to make sure they weren't leaking...but both the intake valves are leaking quite badly. I relapped them but to no success.

Thoughts? Should I just keep lapping them? Perhaps the guides of the valves themselves are bent? Not sure what I should do at this stage.

James

Ps for some reason my photos insist on being upside down???