Rebuilding an ea82

jims · Post by **jims** » Wed Mar 06, 2013 3:53 pm

Thanks guys!

When I go to prime some oil through the engine (using Bennie's drill and cam belt approach) which way do I want to be spinning the pulley on the oil pump? In other words, which was does it spin when the engine is running?

YouTube · Post by **El_Freddo** » Wed Mar 06, 2013 8:19 pm

jims wrote:When I go to prime some oil through the engine (using Bennie's drill and cam belt approach) which way do I want to be spinning the pulley on the oil pump? In other words, which was does it spin when the engine is running?

Clockwise when looking at the engine

Cheers

Bennie

jims · Post by **jims** » Wed Mar 06, 2013 9:33 pm

Good man

RSR 555 · Post by **RSR 555** » Thu Mar 14, 2013 3:19 pm

Update?

jims · Post by **jims** » Sat Mar 16, 2013 9:08 pm

It's in and running!! just done today. Purring too

Will post more when I have recovered.

RSR 555 · Post by **RSR 555** » Sun Mar 17, 2013 3:05 pm

LOL.. glad to hear it's running again and I gather by purring.. it's running quiet?

jims · Post by **jims** » Mon Mar 18, 2013 6:34 pm

Well it's done. Almost.

The engine is in the car and running well. However, one problem I had during the install was that one of the studs on the head that the exhaust bolts onto stripped the thread. So while its all together, there is a lot of exhaust noise atm. I guess I will have to tap a new thread and replace the stud with something oversize. Then it will be done!

So the rebuild all in all:

new main bearings $16
new big end bearings $3
complete engine gasket and seal kit through the donk $105
deglazed the cylinders and installed new rings $41
resurfaced heads $100
new head gaskets (came in engine gasket kit)
valves lapped into their seats
new valve lifters $8each
timing belt kit about $100
spark plugs (alredy had new leads)
new engine ($60) and trans mounts ($50)
Plus things like engine oil, filterm brake fluid etc. Plus postage for some of this stuff.

I think that is most of it. While I had the engine out I also did some rust work and re-sprayed some areas in the engine bay.

Looking forward to getting the exhaust sorted so I can start driving it again!

Cheers, James

RSR 555 · Post by **RSR 555** » Tue Mar 19, 2013 3:00 pm

Sounds great James, as for your exhaust studs, you can you a Heli-Coil (recoil thread kit)

or this is what I use...

jims · Post by **jims** » Tue Mar 19, 2013 3:03 pm

Thanks man

I'm really pleased with how its all turned out. This morning I went down to the auto store and bought one of those helicoil kits. Worked a treat! Simply, quick and easy to use.

YouTube · Post by **El_Freddo** » Tue Mar 19, 2013 5:21 pm

That's an interesting upside down photo of an EA82... it actually makes an EA82 interesting for a little bit!

Cheers

Bennie

jims · Post by **jims** » Thu Mar 28, 2013 1:58 pm

Hey guys,

I'm soon due for my first oil change on the rebuilt engine. I just wanted to see what oil viscosity everything recommends? Obviously even with the rebuild it is an old block. Also keen to use an oil that will keep those pesky valve lifter noises away.

What do you think?

RSR 555 · Post by **RSR 555** » Thu Mar 28, 2013 2:13 pm

The block really plays a very small part in the oiling system, by this I mean the oil feeds to the crank are faily large and tend not to block up. What is important is getting oil up to those cams and lifters. As long as the oil galleries are cleaned out, then you should be fine. I prefer to use Motul oils and would recommend to you the Motul 4100 Power. This oil goes very well in the older EA engines and I'm very impressed with well it holds up after the engines get very warm (like when we go 4WDing).

http://www.motul.com/gb/en/products/26? ... sity%5D=32

steptoe · Post by **steptoe** » Fri Mar 29, 2013 7:16 am

I have been using 10W40 or 15W40 for 95,000km now and happy with it - either Valvoline or Nulon on my EA82T. Changes every 10,000km with filter.

jims · Post by **jims** » Tue Apr 02, 2013 6:51 pm

oh o.

I drained the oil this afternoon to do the first oil change. After all the oil drained out I noticed a little metal ring sittin in the plug hole. Turns out its the g-shaped ring that sits in front of the piston pin! The one you remove via the access hole.

How much trouble am I in?

jims · Post by **jims** » Tue Apr 02, 2013 7:27 pm

On second thoughts, it must have come from the inner side of the piston pin. If it came from the outside it wouldn't have dropped down into the engine. This is even worse news in terms of replacing.

Silverbullet · Post by **Silverbullet** » Tue Apr 02, 2013 8:03 pm

Oh bugger

Definitely not what you want to see. Some people might risk it and not give a damn but all I would be able to think about is that pin slipping out and scraping your nice clean bores

jims · Post by **jims** » Thu Apr 04, 2013 11:27 pm

Okay guys, new problem. Lifter noise.

Initially the car ran quiet. It then developed a loud lifter tick. I ran a bottle of that lifter free stuff through and it stopped all together. Now it's come back and after an oil change and another bottle of lifter free it won't go away. I installed brand new lifters when I did the rebuild as well as new oil pump seal and timing belts. Could I have an oil pressure problem? The oil light goes out but it's the only thing I can think of.
thoughts?

jims · Post by **jims** » Thu Apr 04, 2013 11:52 pm

Ps, the noise varies as you drive: sometimes its quiter (but not completely gone) and other times its louder.

jims · Post by **jims** » Fri Apr 05, 2013 12:11 am

Maybe my Micky mouse seal didnt sit flush...just thinking aloud now

littlewhiteute · Post by **littlewhiteute** » Fri Apr 05, 2013 6:29 am

jims wrote:oh o.

I drained the oil this afternoon to do the first oil change. After all the oil drained out I noticed a little metal ring sittin in the plug hole. Turns out its the g-shaped ring that sits in front of the piston pin! The one you remove via the access hole.

How much trouble am I in?

You're in a lot of trouble.

Could be any one of 8.

Sorry to say, engine out.