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chop the guards to suit, brumbyrunner style

Remember this................Measure twice - cut once ~ Measure twice - cut once .... repeat

Yeah but I never measured anything - I just assumed that the Brumby crossmember and the WRX crossmember would be in the same position (give or take a few mm).

So what you really meant to say was - Never ASSUME or you make an ASS out of U and ME

Are you just going by where the wheel sits in the guard? I think you'll find that if you move the crossmember back you'll have to move the strut towers too. When I measured mine up I took the strut angle (caster) into account (the Brumby has virtually none) and the crossmember bolts are pretty much in line (just wider). The wheels are way forward in the guard opening.

I've got camber and castor adjustable strut tops but may have to move the strut towers back a bit as well.

It'll make a good trailer one day lol.

niterida wrote:I have made a small breakthrough

Bolted all the suspension and crossmembers on to the chassis rails and placed the body over the chassis. Now everything looks like it is in the right place until I put a wheel and front guard on only to discover everything is at least 50mm too far forward !!

So I need to move the engine crossmember mounting points back by 50mm on the chassis and I may be able to squeeze the rotor in after all

But that also means I need a new floor because the WRX one I was going to use is now going to be 50mm too short at the front

you may wish to measure this based on the issues Tom had with his GF8 when the lift was done.

Hey Neil - not sure what you mean by that ? I am moving everything back 50mm - so it will all be in the stock position relative to each other (gearbox & engine crossmember, LCA mounts etc)

P.S. sorry I haven't called - been busy sleeping and working !!

When we lifted mine it would steer by the accelerator, lift off turn left, foot down turn right....even just slightly, it was VERY scary to drive on the freeway, we tried everything to cure it like 60mm blocks under the rear trailing arms, 50mm blocks where an anti lift kit would go, lengthening the front sway bar mounts but nothing would work, my wheel aligner suggested lengthening the rear trailing arms which was about the last resort so Neil grabbed 4 out of his pile and cut them so they joined an inch longer and strengthened them, instant fix, you wouldn't believe how much it changed the car but not sure if moving the front back will make the same problems I had appear, I'd say it was my rear axles and arms slightly facing forward from the diff making the back of the car steer itself.

Let this be a warning to others lifting Impreza's and Liberty's, my tyres were actually rubbing on the back of the front skirts and I only have 26" tyres on it, when we replaced the lengthened by 25mm arms the wheels came back to the original position and perfect handling again.

niterida wrote:I have made a small breakthrough

Bolted all the suspension and crossmembers on to the chassis rails and placed the body over the chassis. Now everything looks like it is in the right place until I put a wheel and front guard on only to discover everything is at least 50mm too far forward !!

So I need to move the engine crossmember mounting points back by 50mm on the chassis and I may be able to squeeze the rotor in after all

But that also means I need a new floor because the WRX one I was going to use is now going to be 50mm too short at the front

Same problem here, front guard sits level with rim at the front and the rim lip sits approx 50mm outside the guard lip. $99 eBay guard roller will hopefully fix this.
What are you doing for the radiator and mount support panel? Weld in wrx mounts and use stock wrx rad, fans and shrouding or use fd3 full setup? From my research fd3 setup has the right size in/outlets and size wise should fit in the existing MY radiator hole with headlight clearance but I can't find a mounting depth measurement inc fans. Did you get one with the half cut? Thanks

Small update !!

Decided rotary motor was too much hassle and has been sold (at a small profit:) )

So tack welded the chassis rails on. Put an EJ22 engine and gearbox on the crossmembers, added a front hub, coilover and wheel (with 215/60/16 Outback sized tyre!!) and dropped the body over once again.
Bugger me if it didn't fit perfectly using the exisitng crossmember mounting holes on the Brumby chassis. Wheel sits perfectly central and the WRX floor is OK to use as well. Woohoo

Nice work Ken and why a NA EJ22 when you can build a quadcam EJ22 and bolt on some turbo that might be just laying around

The gaurd looks like it needs to moved in a little which will cause the wheel to stick out... nothing a set of STi flared gaurds couldn't fix.

niterida wrote:

RSR 555 wrote:Nice work Ken and why a NA EJ22 when you can build a quadcam EJ22 and bolt on some turbo that might be just laying around

hmmm maybe because my DOHC heads and turbo are in Perth ??
Will probably build it using this NA motor and keep an eye out for a cheap STi front cut............

RSR 555 wrote:The guard looks like it needs to moved in a little which will cause the wheel to stick out... nothing a set of STi flared gaurds couldn't fix.

Yeah tyres will stick out about 50-60mm - WRX track is 110mm wider than Brumby

Are you going to widen the arse end to match?, I guess you could use the same type & size rim with a big offset/dish on the back.......Now that would look cool.

d_generate wrote:Are you going to widen the arse end to match?, I guess you could use the same type & size rim with a big offset/dish on the back.......Now that would look cool.

Yeah its got WRX rear end in it as well so it will have to be have wider guards too.
I have a set of 3piece ROH 18's that I have been thinking of buying a wider outer rim to give me dish. If I use 22b specs I can legally increase the rear track by a further 80mm over the WRX track - so I could run almost 2" of dish

How far does the rear end stick out past the guards? Time for some flaring??

Cheers

Bennie

El_Freddo wrote:How far does the rear end stick out past the guards? Time for some flaring??

Cheers

Bennie

About the same - definitely needs flaring - want to do it the same as the model in my sig pic. Need to get hold of 2000-2007 model Impreza guards, rear doors and rear quarters to do it like that and that may be too expensive

Most likely is using spare Brumby guards and rear quarters I have and extend it all

Personally I think rolling the guard would look a pot load better than building a "Kryten" flared brumby.

For your those who don't watch Red Dwarf, this is Kryten:



:P

Cheers

Bennie

El_Freddo wrote: For your those who don't watch Red Dwarf, this is Kryten:



:P

Cheers

Bennie

When ABC 2 first came on the air this is all I watched, along with scrap heap challenge and other REAL television.

Cam

niterida wrote:hmmm maybe because my DOHC heads and turbo are in Perth ??

Hope they're not in Perth and hope you're not getting charged storage fees

Here's a wide body kit for ya...
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Subaru-Impre ... 2c4cf34bfb