Brumby build with a difference

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RSR 555
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Post by RSR 555 » Mon May 21, 2012 9:23 am

niterida wrote:I was referring to making it RWD - but yes I did think that comment was a bit silly when I wrote it :)
hehehe


What about your rotary forum mates? have they got any pics or info on fitting one??
You know you are getting old when the candles on your birthday cake start to cost more than the cake itself.

RSR Performance
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seagull
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Post by seagull » Tue May 22, 2012 11:17 pm

That rotor motor will piss you off no end. My mate Shane has one in a nissan wagon what a heap of dog dodo it is to drive, needs full throttle every were

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niterida
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Post by niterida » Wed May 23, 2012 12:23 am

seagull wrote: needs full throttle every were
EXCELLENT :cool::):D;):p
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RSR 555
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Post by RSR 555 » Wed May 23, 2012 7:37 am

seagull wrote:needs full throttle every were
And the problem is what?? :D
You know you are getting old when the candles on your birthday cake start to cost more than the cake itself.

RSR Performance
Home of the 'MURTAYA' in Oz
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seagull
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Post by seagull » Wed May 23, 2012 10:58 pm

the amount of fuel it uses in 200ks you could run a generator to light your work shop up for a month.

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niterida
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Post by niterida » Wed May 23, 2012 11:38 pm

Good thing it only does 200ks between rebuilds then :)
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seagull
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Post by seagull » Fri May 25, 2012 12:06 am

LOL, yes that as well

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seagull
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Post by seagull » Sat Jun 02, 2012 10:13 pm

Yawn, tailshaft is here

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B00sting
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Post by B00sting » Sun Jun 03, 2012 11:56 am

niterida wrote:Good thing it only does 200ks between rebuilds then :)
hahaha! (and this is generally what the population actually believe!)
Brumby 1992: EA81, 15" peugot steelies, 2" ********* body lift, tonneau cover, bullbar, GME UHF, ARB compressor, ********* rear diff protector, SOLD

-97 Landcruiser :D

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niterida
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Post by niterida » Sun Jun 03, 2012 9:35 pm

Well its not looking good. The Rotor is 465mm long once you include the gearbox adapter and remove the PS and Air Cond pumps, AND run an Electric Water Pump to get rid of bulky inlets and outlets. I have 500mm from the gearbox to the radiator support panel so that only leaves 35mm to mount a radiator :(

I calculated that at most I could move the gearbox back 25-30mm so I could possibly squeeze a radiator in but would then need to mount the fans in front. But then where would I put the Front Mount Intercooler ??

Also the crossmember isn't really being cooperative and would need major reworking to move the motor back another 50mm. As it is the engine mounts are going to be a pain in the butt without making it more difficult moving the engine back.

Now the Subie motor is only 410mm long including all the front pulleys, leaving a good 90mm for a radiator and fans - which is still a bit tight though. Of course that means I don't have to modify the crossmember or make custom engine mounts etc.

So given my limited fabrication skills I would have to say that the rotary idea is just a bridge too far :)

Of course the fact that I have just bought myself a Liberty RS Turbo wagon has swayed the decision too. I can put all my good bits on the wagon - DCCD gearbox, Brembos, 18's, coilovers, swaybars etc and I still have an EJ22 / 5 speed, 16's, 4 pots etc to go in the Brumby and then maybe in the future when funds are available I can upgrade to STi motor etc for the Brumby. AT least doing it this way keeps the cost and the build time way down.
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Brumby Kid
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Post by Brumby Kid » Sun Jun 03, 2012 10:31 pm

Bugger, was looking forward to seeing a rotary in a brumby, are you really going to do a twin engine brumby like your signature?
Please correct me if I'm wrong. Differences between STi and non STi.
6 speed gearbox
Brakes
Turbo
Water cooled inter cooler
Tuned differently.

Cheers Cam
When life gives you a corner, drop a gear, pitch, and stomp the loud pedal
Bianca: 1991 Subaru Brumby
My First / Project car

EA81 Rebuilt by Tony Knight from knight Engines
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niterida
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Post by niterida » Sun Jun 03, 2012 10:44 pm

Brumby Kid wrote:Bugger, was looking forward to seeing a rotary in a brumby, are you really going to do a twin engine brumby like your signature?

Cheers Cam
Thats the long term plan - got a rusty Brumby shell sitting waiting but it will be 2 NA motors not turbos :(

Gotta build ths Brumby first, then make a trailer out of the smashed Brumby and then make a car trailer out of a big pile of steel I have left over from my old business and I am still trying to buy a rusty hatchback Torana from around the corner............

Check back in about 10yrs :razz:
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B00sting
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Post by B00sting » Mon Jun 04, 2012 4:56 pm

How about W2A instead, and a tray mounted radiator?
Would that give you enough room?
Brumby 1992: EA81, 15" peugot steelies, 2" ********* body lift, tonneau cover, bullbar, GME UHF, ARB compressor, ********* rear diff protector, SOLD

-97 Landcruiser :D

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seagull
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Post by seagull » Wed Jun 06, 2012 10:02 pm

wasted the rottor & gave it a head start as well
Pifft the 207 is killa hahahahah

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niterida
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Post by niterida » Fri Jun 15, 2012 4:52 pm

I have made a small breakthrough :)

Bolted all the suspension and crossmembers on to the chassis rails and placed the body over the chassis. Now everything looks like it is in the right place until I put a wheel and front guard on only to discover everything is at least 50mm too far forward !!

So I need to move the engine crossmember mounting points back by 50mm on the chassis and I may be able to squeeze the rotor in after all :)

But that also means I need a new floor because the WRX one I was going to use is now going to be 50mm too short at the front :(
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vincentvega
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Post by vincentvega » Sun Jun 17, 2012 8:47 am

chop the guards to suit, brumbyrunner style ;)
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brumbyrunner wrote:And just to clarify the real 4WD thing, Subarus are an unreal 4WD.

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d_generate
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Post by d_generate » Sun Jun 17, 2012 4:09 pm

Remember this................Measure twice - cut once ~ Measure twice - cut once .... repeat
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niterida
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Post by niterida » Sun Jun 17, 2012 5:51 pm

Yeah but I never measured anything - I just assumed that the Brumby crossmember and the WRX crossmember would be in the same position (give or take a few mm).

So what you really meant to say was - Never ASSUME or you make an ASS out of U and ME :)
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Point
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Post by Point » Sun Jun 17, 2012 10:06 pm

Are you just going by where the wheel sits in the guard? I think you'll find that if you move the crossmember back you'll have to move the strut towers too. When I measured mine up I took the strut angle (caster) into account (the Brumby has virtually none) and the crossmember bolts are pretty much in line (just wider). The wheels are way forward in the guard opening.
90 Brumby - Stalled EJ project
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niterida
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Post by niterida » Sun Jun 17, 2012 10:13 pm

I've got camber and castor adjustable strut tops but may have to move the strut towers back a bit as well.
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