Rebuilding an ea82

jims · Post by **jims** » Sun Jan 13, 2013 3:04 pm

Thanks Bennie. That is the approach I'm going with too: pull it down and see what I need then order the bits and pieces. The rockauto.com site looks very useful!

When you had your cylinders rebored did you buy new pistons as well? What did the bore work set you back?

James

Haymaker · Post by **Haymaker** » Sun Jan 13, 2013 7:59 pm

If you can, get your hands on a Gregorys to help with the finer points. I got all my pistons, gaskets and timing kits from the US. Pistons and rings I got from Thompson Engines on Ebay USA. From memory it cost me about $450 to get two sets of pistons, two complete gasket sets and two full timing kits sent out from the US. Unfortunatley OZ prices couldn't even come close. Cant remember who I got the gaskets from over there but there are many large companies who advertise via US Ebay who supply quality OEM gaskets. When I did my last rebuild I removed the pistons via access gudgeon pin hole. I split the block and removed the crank and connecting rods as one unit. The only time I have ever had trouble splitting the block is when I missed one of the bolts holding it together and it took me a while to find the sneaky bugger, otherwise they come apart relatively easy. It cost me about $400 to have the heads machined and fully reconditioned and $400 for reboring of the block 020" over. I guess the costs for these are dependent on how many engine shops there are in your area. In the US the L series is called a Loyale. I did my last rebuild 18 months ago so prices are from then and the Oz dollar is now also higher. I have probably told you stuff you may already know but hopefully something here will help you out.

jims · Post by **jims** » Mon Jan 14, 2013 12:17 am

Thanks for the info Haymaker...especially about the cost of your machine work. The more I read the more I am inclined to split the block. Like you said, if your are going to all this effort in the first place there is no point skimping right at the end.

Will keep you updated

YouTube · Post by **El_Freddo** » Mon Jan 14, 2013 6:44 pm

jims wrote:When you had your cylinders rebored did you buy new pistons as well? What did the bore work set you back?

The mob that did my rebore (no longer there

) sorted the new pistons and rings for me to make sure that everything was the right size.

Honestly I can't remember how much it cost me, it was about 7 years ago that I did this - even if I did remember it the cost wouldn't be a current reflection of how much it's going to set you back.

Cheers

Bennie

tony · Post by **tony** » Tue Jan 15, 2013 12:40 am

400 seems too much for a rebore and for heads. i had a 4 cylinder done last year needed to be straightened and valves etc done cost about $240.
rebores used to be around $60 a pot but probably more now. before you get all this done get a couple of shops to do a measure on the bores they probably won't need reboring at all. that would also mean no new pistons although new rings wouldn't hurt.
replace the big ends and mains they are a major issue in subie because of the difficulty in getting at them. a rattly main won't hurt you immediately but a rattly big end can cause major destruction as it flies out of the block. you can get the crank journals miked up once you have it out.
subies don't wear much because they are a relatively slow revving motor.

jims · Post by **jims** » Tue Jan 15, 2013 12:50 pm

Thanks Tony.

Where did you get your machine work done? Also, what do you mean, getting your "crank journals miked up?"

Silverbullet · Post by **Silverbullet** » Tue Jan 15, 2013 4:03 pm

jims wrote:Thanks Tony.

Where did you get your machine work done? Also, what do you mean, getting your "crank journals miked up?"

I think he means "mic'd up"

Means measured with a micrometer, if you know how to use a mic you can get within a few microns on the diameter.

tony · Post by **tony** » Thu Jan 17, 2013 6:17 pm

um thanks bullet, yes just techie talk for micrometer.
if you are not sure how to use one get an expert to do it errors can be expensive. but if you never do it you will never learn. you can buy digital micrometers now for 30 or 40 smackers.
i usually go to performance mods in ossie park, costly but does the job properly, tell him you want a fitters job not a mechanics (another in joke, fitters have no time for mechanics) otherwise for heads go to harris in ossie park also, not sure if he does other engine work.
use performance mods if it is a good engine and you are going to hammer it.
years ago when i had a S2 landy I was looking for a crank for that and went into several workshops to buy a reground crank, measured a dozen or more and every one of them had journals ground odd sizes.
for a hack motor i would not bother with new pistons a bit of marking on the piston head is going to be neither here nor there. i have reconditioned at least 30 motors from holden to nissan to suzuki to subaru and never had to rebore. not saying the engines would not be improved by a rebore but not essential even put a holden 6 back together with a scored bore never hurt it. although the 308 with a hole in the bore had a sleeve and rebore job..
as a matter of fact engine reconditioners when doing 308s will only bore to 60 thou over, even though the bores only need 20 or 30. this because they buy 60 over pistons and rings by the crate cheap and it costs more for a single set of 20 or 30, they don't care that it means you cannot rebore the engine again because 60 is the largest oversize, many good 308s ruined because of this.

as above it depends what you expect from your motor.

jims · Post by **jims** » Thu Jan 17, 2013 6:19 pm

Got some more work done on the engine today. Removed the drivers side head and dismantled the springs and valves. I noticed that on both the intake valves there was considerable build up whereas the exhaust valves where relatively clean:

[ATTACH]3825[/ATTACH]

Do you think this is just old age? Or maybe the valve stem seals? Does any one have any good advice in terms of getting the old valve stem seals out (I plan to replace them all)? Should I just prize them out or is there some technique involved?

Also got the one head cleaned up and also removed the bell housing. Getting there slowly..

jims · Post by **jims** » Thu Jan 17, 2013 6:20 pm

Cleaned up head:

[ATTACH]3826[/ATTACH]

jims · Post by **jims** » Thu Jan 17, 2013 6:24 pm

Thanks Tony. If the cylinders look okay (and don't need reboring) would you hone/deglaze them before installing new piston rings? What is your opinion on this?

YouTube · Post by **El_Freddo** » Thu Jan 17, 2013 9:19 pm

jims wrote:If the cylinders look okay (and don't need reboring) would you hone/deglaze them before installing new piston rings? What is your opinion on this?

Without a doubt! If you don't hone the bore before replacing rings the new rings won't bed in properly and you'll have compression issues.

As for the intake valves, I've never seen the back of them dirty like that. This could suggest a blow by issue that allowed a lot of blow by and oil residue/mist into the intake tract that slowly stuck and built up on the back of the valve.

The stem seals should pull off with a bit of effort, just make sure you don't damage the mounting clip/rim.

Cheers

Bennie

jims · Post by **jims** » Thu Jan 17, 2013 10:14 pm

What is blow by Bennie? I've heard you guys talk about it before but never really understood.

YouTube · Post by **El_Freddo** » Thu Jan 17, 2013 10:23 pm

jims wrote:What is blow by Bennie? I've heard you guys talk about it before but never really understood.

It's when the compression and the explosion of the air/fuel mixture leak past the rings on the piston. You'll typically see blue smoke out the back of a car when blow by is really bad where oil is leaking into the cylinder. The burning oil or oil mist that enters the cylinders through the PCV system is usually burnt pretty cleanly in the cylinder with the air/fuel mixture.

There's more to it than that but that's pretty much the raw basics of it.

Cheers

Bennie

jims · Post by **jims** » Thu Jan 17, 2013 10:30 pm

I see. Is there a way to correct this? I assume re honing and putting in new rings will help?

stork955 · Post by **stork955** » Fri Jan 18, 2013 6:20 am

G'day, the carbon buildup on the back of your inlet valves is a sign that oil is getting through the stem seals and valve guides. It's probably just hardened valve stem seals, but the guides will need checking and replacement if they are worn. This causes the puff of blue smoke you see when you let your foot off the throttle.

Cheers,

Stork

steptoe · Post by **steptoe** » Fri Jan 18, 2013 7:00 am

Consider it a worthwhile purchase - new hydraulic lifters - was it Cliff that got 'em from REPCO recently for about 18 bucks each ? New definitely make a difference. Also, don't make the mistake allxxxxservice staff (Hi Mark , still waiting for your reply !! ) did with my heads and reassembled with my valve springs that resulted in a miss, they claimed verbally that the springs would have been checked and within spec and that my problem was likely a dodgy lifter. Had to tear my engine down to first fit new lifters to find new only made the problem worse, get it out, tear it down again to replace the valve springs with new from Japan. Wow, what a better engine it became. Anyone knowing what a pain it is to rip out an EA82T and redo a job that should not have needed doing in the first place ......

the culprit springs could almost be removed without a compressor tool !

jims · Post by **jims** » Fri Jan 18, 2013 8:24 pm

Yeah I will go with new lifters...my current ticking motor is good motivation to fork out the extra bucks.

I got quite a bit done today. Pulled down the passengers side of the engine from the rocker cover back to the valve train and head. All cleaned up and waiting to get put back in. I also removed the oil sump and oil pump.

[ATTACH]3829[/ATTACH]

One problem I did have today was getting the oil filter of the pump. I have one of those filter tools but even with that I couldn't crack it. I've left it with some wd40 to soak in...any hints?

jims · Post by **jims** » Sat Jan 19, 2013 4:26 pm

Hey guys, just a quick question about piston removal.

I have the access holes open and have removed all the circlips but am stuck as to how to remove the piston pin. Can this be done without a specialised tool? Any help would be great, thanks!

James

555Ron · Post by **555Ron** » Sat Jan 19, 2013 4:42 pm

Yes, you can try to heat the end of a flat blade screw driver and bend it over to grab the backside of the gudgeon pin and pull. Easy out was suggested to me but i have never tried it. I grounded the head off a large M8 bolt to get mine. It really is a trial and error thing.