MY series vs L series front end geometry

Silverbullet · Post by **Silverbullet** » Mon Sep 22, 2014 5:55 pm

So there's a few options to sort out the inner CV seal issue.
Matt I know a place locally that rebuilds drive shafts and CV's, they're very familiar with old Subies and their drive shaft angles/problems and I'm pretty sure they could make up any combination of joints etc.

steptoe · Post by **steptoe** » Tue Sep 23, 2014 7:34 pm

Hauled out a few stubs, did same thing, sat them on my square lockers and sat up correct way , on the ball joint flat, which is a machined surface on both - this test only going to work if machined square regards to the ball joint receptacle, LEFT MY V's LEFT L Series and yep Sam, you can do same thing - there is an 8 to 10 degrees at a guess - difference.

If it gets swallowed up in the fitment and works for you I won't be too far behind

Silverbullet · Post by **Silverbullet** » Tue Sep 23, 2014 8:11 pm

I wonder if I built some extra offset into my strut top lift blocks at the front would it absorb some of that difference?

steptoe · Post by **steptoe** » Wed Sep 24, 2014 7:31 am

the bulk of the rubber top mount is already pretty tight fit in the towers neck hole, doubt you'd get it off to one side much at all without stuffing your new paint

Silverbullet · Post by **Silverbullet** » Thu Oct 16, 2014 8:27 pm

Well well, nothing is new after all...

showthread.php?t=4369

All this discussion, head scratching, myth and conjecture and Matt was holding out on us this whole time!

I think I know what I'm going to do now

Basically exactly what is in the above thread and use L series drive shafts. This will solve all my problems. Just hope my tires don't stick out too far, don't think they will since they are pretty safely inside as they are. L series arms shouldn't make a huge difference hopefully.