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OK, naming names here, Subybrumby and Phizinza had problems with L Series front hubs, brakes and knuckles when fitted to MY / Brumby in that it was a / \ case in the front geometry, so both pulled them out, maybe some hair too

Along comes Matt with his girl in blue, all fresh and tidy looking, kitted up with L Series front brakes and innocently says he didn't have any problems as he also fitted the L Series struts ( that have three mounting studs to strut tower instead of two of MY.

I checked his thread to see he used MY lower control arms in Claudia (not to be confused with Bianca) and likely MY CV shaft inner DOJ, shaft and L Series outer - CV joint to fit all components and good result

So, anyone else done same as Matt and got no geometry problems, and Matt worked it all out for good end result and at standard suspension height ?

showthread.php?t=21495&highlight=Series+struts&page=3 post #25, in case anyone gets distracted

I just found some L Series 4WD front struts in my junk, thought they were MY until I spied the three studs on the top mount
Or, was Matt lucky in that he lifted her 2" higher and the / \ thing was abosrbed here ?|

The work on Claudia's brakes was done by someone else. But it is L series hubs, struts, and brakes with a MY Control arm. And there is no dramas with camber. What i believe is the difference is the L Series struts are offset more then my. So the top of the hub is pushed further in thus eliminating the issue.

Hummmm, Sry to high jack this thread but it got me thinking....

My, well my bro's got a big front camber problem on his brumby with the 4inch lift and now that he has new king springs its worst, specially when you whine the strut nuts to lift it more.

So he has terrible Positive, \ / camber, and we have looked at offsetting the strut blocks more but theres no space. He can't really afford a 5stud kit and so the only option would be to extend the lower arms.

Correct me if i'm wrong and your thoughts advice would be appreciated but Reading this first post i was wandering. If i understand well that if we used L Series front hubs, brakes and knuckles with the MY / Brumby struts we would get plenty of / \ Negative camber??

I know these only one way to find out but in theory, if i used this, do you think it would cancel my \ / positive camber?

It this is right, this would be great as not only would the camber be fixed or better than now, He would get better brakes to try and slow down the EJ22:)

Thx

Both ways standard my and the L series struts you still end up with \ / tyres. Depending on how bad the camber is out you could try something like the Kmac camber kit? Do you have any measurements, etc?

steptoe wrote:OK, naming names here, Subybrumby and Phizinza had problems with L Series front hubs, brakes and knuckles when fitted to MY / Brumby in that it was a / \ case in the front geometry, so both pulled them out, maybe some hair too

I was hoping this, using the L series hubs with My shocks, would counter act and cancel some of the \ / we have??

Jonno now plans to get some L CV's to fit to MY shafts for another project... CRIPES L Series CV's won't just come off the shafts I have !!

a month later - no progress here. The quiet one nncoolg has suggested from that ever so handy first hand, hands on experience > no change of CV at all, may be a different inner seal on the hub to seal the different cone of the CV shaft to inner bearing. There is a difference on the CV outer stub where the bearings sit on the shaft, so... L series hubs might be deeper than MY ??

Problem with my brumby was over positive camber when I bought it... \ /. 3 inch lift running L series hubs to cater for the larger disc pads on MY brumby lower control arm and standard radius rods and tie rod ends. I went L series lower control arms, ford radius rods and camry tie rod ends to correct camber but that brought the wheel further forward in the wheel arch and cooked my inner cv boots off the turbo (EA82T), After much mucking about and various setups, went back to total standard front brumby setup and all was fine. Phizinza indicated to me that there was a subtle difference in the angle of the hubs causing the camber problem. Been running standard like this now for couple of years and all good, tyre wear even. Still haven't re inserted the front stabiliser bar though (too lazy). So problem was \ / not / \. Camber now i i but standard brake pads. Went to Gladstone and back from Toowoomba the other weeekend and went like a rocket. Going out to Windorah western Qld soon for a break and intending to take it...handles pretty good.

Matt wrote:The work on Claudia's brakes was done by someone else. But it is L series hubs, struts, and brakes with a MY Control arm. And there is no dramas with camber. What i believe is the difference is the L Series struts are offset more then my. So the top of the hub is pushed further in thus eliminating the issue.

Not pickin' you at all Matt, but been thinking (ouch!) the struts themselves are straight as - being a rod and piston inside tubes etc with seals and oil and gas - whether an MY or L Series. Only thought of it as I pulled one apart - never to go back together again though

Just laid my new Brumby struts assembled besides L Series Touring Wagon and the top cap for the spring sits 30mm higher up on the L than the MY. Both with factory springs and get this.....


I...I...I forget

To Be Continued....if I ever remember

now, resolved my impression of the differences of the L CV to MY CV. MY has longer splines cut into it towards the hub, making it look different to the L stub. Closer inspection reveals the bearings sit apart the same in MY and L 4WD front hubs.

Next concern was the difference in OD of the step up from the spindle, but it's not where the inner seal runs - that is on the taper beyond, which is different again.

So, looking at listings of L front hub 4WD inner seal and that of 4WD MY inner hub seal, it looks like to run a 4WD L Series hub on an MY CV shaft we need a seal 52 ID, 76 OD 8mm wide

Found kelpro list a seal closest to it at 52.37 ID , 76.2 OD 9.52mm wide

it is 97805

Apart from the using of the standard MY driveshaft for this conversion, how have you sorted out the \-/ issue with the L series hub on the MY control arm and strut?

Or have I missed something here?

Cheers

Bennie

Nothing sorted Bennie. Just we have members who have tried and had bad result and just as many who have done, or have it with no problems. So think we are at a half way bet that it will work or won't work at this stage.

Recapping, Phizinza and subybrumby have encountered probs and reverted to std MY/Brumby components whereas on the other side of the camp Matt and nncoolg have had good results

Given the massive stopping power of my recently installed Bendix pads from the US market compared to the pads that came out of sedan the braking improvement could just come from a set of pads, but if L brakes to MY is needed to match L EA82T in my Brumby for engineering purposes and it works it will be worth a try (at failure?) Once I do find out wil determine what stuff I can chuck. I'm sure I have hubs and callipers and CV shafts to excss

I ran RX turbo on brakes on my old 84 wagon for about 5 years, they bolted straight on, used the standard 84 driveshafts and shock towers.. so putting them on a brumby should be the same, as far a camber i didn't notice any difference.. but the braking was way better, plan to do it on my Brumby as soon as i can find the parts..

OK , now it's three against two, can hear Trev and Phiz tutt,tutt,tutting now
Another thought on seals is the inner lip of new found part number may not be same type of tapered flange thing, then again the L might be flexible enough to suit MY CV taper.

Morrie, std height or lift kit ??

Also starting to work out what happend to the few L Series RX's that were getting about too !!!

This thread is now relevant to my interests, owing to the sudden availability of parts

B nora, I gunna check again as i kept the L calipers, discs and hubs.

Morrie wrote:I ran RX turbo on brakes on my old 84 wagon for about 5 years, they bolted straight on, used the standard 84 driveshafts and shock towers.. so putting them on a brumby should be the same, as far a camber i didn't notice any difference.. but the braking was way better, plan to do it on my Brumby as soon as i can find the parts..

Morrie can you tell us exactly what you bolted straight on to make it work.

i too are having this problem with camber on the L series, has anyone else had this problem and fixed it? i would love to know... I'm thinking the only way to pull the strut tops closer to the motor is re offsetting the bolt plate on the strut top lift part and making some more room in the tunnel with a hammer and grinder... don't really want to but it looks gay and my tires and coping the shoulder wear..

Myself and a mate went halves in a import front cut RX turbo, it was an auto which i don't think makes any difference, just unbolted the hub from the strut and unbolted the ball joint from the hub, i used the brumby ball joint and strut, i just bolted the new RX hub straight in.

When i first did the turbo conversion with these brakes it had a stinger 2 inch lift kit, these kits have an offset on the strut top to keep the camber standard. but i had to pull this out as the car was kinda uncontrolable to drive with the extra power. my wagon pretty much had close to 0 camber from standard.. the camber was no different with the RX hubs..

As far as fixing the camber problem most have, i have thought about making some adjustable strut tops like they use with aftermarket coil overs, or adjustable control arms.. or even elongation the strutt top mounting holes.

Thanks Morrie. That make sence now, just wish I hadent got rid off the L front struts I had. I left the hub thingey on the struts. an L will come my way again soon enough.