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how easy is it to upgrade an old MY front end ?? What , with ball joints on ebay about $25 each, gotta be the easiest ball joint swap in motoring history with great resulting benefits, so too to fit poly radius rod bushes - just installed mine and made a whopping difference in the feel and sound of my front end - compared to the 392,000km original rubber ones marching towards the bin now....tie rods about $30 each are next on my list ......


Carl (and anyone else reading) radius rods are on the front end , one each side , not left or right specific in part, bolt between the only lower control arm with two bolts (17mm head and nut) and then to the chassis further back at about 45 degree angle from the LCA. The bushes SPF1098K

http://www.superpro.com.au/superpro-sea ... phrase=all

says for L Series , but I have now run these for years in my first Brumby, and from some recent experience can say these guys have it sorted as to the 17mm ID of the bush, the shape and the fit in Brumby and MY. MY rod is 17mm dia, L 4WD is 18mm

one pack does two side ie one car

the poly is described as turning the rubber bush job of cushioning into the poly as a bearing and bush so needs the metal contact parts cleeaned up and lubed with silicone grease supplied

fit at the back replacing the fat rubber washers and fit with the fatter fat base of each bush against the chassis mount, so if you put the two (of four of same bushes in the pack) bushes together to form a rough ball, this is how they sit on the radius rod (leading rod is factory name) with chassis bit between.
I always loosen and undo rear 17mm nut first while front two bolts hold the rod in place, from twisting against your undoing force. A ratcheting ring is handy for rear nut after you crack its grip.
Got a rattle gun ? Coz it and a 17mm socket from under, with a 17mm flattish ring spanner to hold the bolt head on top helps.
Undo front bolt completley and remove first, as two fight against CV boot, sort of need to twist rod to remove and clar CV bot for second front LCA (rear) bolt.

A 12mm head bolt also needs undoing to remove sway bar bracket and bush - might as well buy sway bar bushings in poly as well while you are about it !!

Also need two ten mm spanners for the hand brake cable securing bracket

see my post on radius rods or photo comp of bent stuff


Those pictured are too square to be correct fit me thinks, may just be a file photo. The other brands I got were not right eitherf, why i went with the blue superpro

what are redius bushes, do you have links to the stuff you bought

Radius / tension / compression / castor rod bushes. I've got a brand new set of super pro ones sitting in a bag here, got them off eBay from online performance I think. Will grab the part number later. I won't need them as going "l series" control arms and custom length rods.

Part numbers and prices and where you got them from would be really handy if you could do that.

Carl (and anyone else reading) radius rods are on the front end , one each side , not left or right specific in part, bolt between the only lower control arm with two bolts (17mm head and nut) and then to the chassis further back at about 45 degree angle from the LCA. The bushes SPF1098K

http://www.superpro.com.au/superpro-sea ... phrase=all

says for L Series , but I have now run these for years in my first Brumby, and from some recent experience can say these guys have it sorted as to the 17mm ID of the bush, the shape and the fit in Brumby and MY. MY rod is 17mm dia, L 4WD is 18mm

one pack does two side ie one car

the poly is described as turning the rubber bush job of cushioning into the poly as a bearing and bush so needs the metal contact parts cleeaned up and lubed with silicone grease supplied

fit at the back replacing the fat rubber washers and fit with the fatter fat base of each bush against the chassis mount, so if you put the two (of four of same bushes in the pack) bushes together to form a rough ball, this is how they sit on the radius rod (leading rod is factory name) with chassis bit between.
I always loosen and undo rear 17mm nut first while front two bolts hold the rod in place, from twisting against your undoing force. A ratcheting ring is handy for rear nut after you crack its grip.
Got a rattle gun ? Coz it and a 17mm socket from under, with a 17mm flattish ring spanner to hold the bolt head on top helps.
Undo front bolt completley and remove first, as two fight against CV boot, sort of need to twist rod to remove and clar CV bot for second front LCA (rear) bolt.

A 12mm head bolt also needs undoing to remove sway bar bracket and bush - might as well buy sway bar bushings in poly as well while you are about it !!

Also need two ten mm spanners for the hand brake cable securing bracket

see my post on radius rods or photo comp of bent stuff

i found the ones i dont need. Nolathane 48003's. For an L Series & MY judging by the multiple ebay listings. i bought them from here:
http://www.ebay.com.au
Paid roughly that price i think too.

Those pictured are too square to be correct fit me thinks, may just be a file photo. The other brands I got were not right eitherf, why i went with the blue superpro