MY rear suspension - Squeaks and noises

Silverbullet · Post by **Silverbullet** » Sat Oct 15, 2011 12:25 am

So, now my car is running reliably (and bloody good on fuel too!) I'm turning to other things that need attention. Next thing to do is rear suspension; the rear right has always had a rattle when going over bumpy road, sharp speed bumps etc. Sounds like someone tapping on the floorpan and happens every time. Then more recently the rear left has started making quite a loud squeaking noise when going over sharp speed bumps/potholes. It was quite an alarming noise at first, pretty loud but it doesn't do it all the time.

Since I have absolutely zero experience with suspension what should I look at first? where do I look for damage/worn components? The rear shocks are bloody old (wouldn't be surprised if they were originals, 30 years old

) dad seems to think its the shock making the rattle noise. The other side that squeaks, could this be a bushing of some sort? Also should mention that going over the smaller speed bumps is...jarring to say the least.

steptoe · Post by **steptoe** » Sat Oct 15, 2011 3:07 am

shocks are a good start. Try first by removing them and going over a known bump in your driveway , yard or somewhere. I wouldn't recommend driving it on the roads though - not safe.

OK, how blody good on fuel is the bullet? litres per hunge ?
How are rear brakes inside the drums, broken springs, bent backing plates ?

NachaLuva · Post by **NachaLuva** » Sat Oct 15, 2011 1:10 pm

What car do you have? If it has just normal shocks (not struts) just buy a new pair. They dont cost much, are easy to put in & good ones will DRAMATICALLY improve the handling

Silverbullet · Post by **Silverbullet** » Sat Oct 15, 2011 1:47 pm

Jonno I'll give that a try. Strange you should mention brakes, the rear right makes a clicking noise when coming to a stop but dad says that's been there forever; slave cylinder.
Don't know how many L/100k precisely yet, and I can't be sure anyway because the fuel gauge is cactus. I'm guessing about 400k's to a tank at least, that was 98 octane though so regular might be a bit less? Way back at the start of the year with the rich running carb I got about 340-350. This car is now more fuel efficient than dad's L series; he gets about 370k's and has a bigger tank! I know traffic conditions etc come into it though.

Nachaluva the car is the one in my signature. Yep just normal shocks, I'll look around for prices and see if that's the best option.

Post by **TOONGA** » Sat Oct 15, 2011 2:30 pm

the clicking noise is the brake shoe re seating when it pushes past the brake dust in the drum the only way to stop the noise is to clean the dust out or go to rear discs.

you could go for the MX5 shock swap like I did on my brumby showthread.php?t=15851&page=60

or have a look at

showpost.php?p=179599&postcount=484

TOONGA

2coupedup · Post by **2coupedup** » Sat Oct 15, 2011 2:45 pm

You should be getting at least 400-450 on a tank, thats what i got in my sub with webber, exhaust and upgraded coil. and all my driving is short trips...
last time i had it down the freeway i got bout 600 on a tank...

if its 4x4 it might be worth getting the 'gas-a-just' shocks from monroe i think... makes a huge difference especially when loaded up in the back... just pump some air in and she's a little stiffer...

cheers

Silverbullet · Post by **Silverbullet** » Sat Oct 15, 2011 4:15 pm

2coupedup wrote:You should be getting at least 400-450 on a tank, thats what i got in my sub with webber, exhaust and upgraded coil. and all my driving is short trips...
last time i had it down the freeway i got bout 600 on a tank...

if its 4x4 it might be worth getting the 'gas-a-just' shocks from monroe i think... makes a huge difference especially when loaded up in the back... just pump some air in and she's a little stiffer...

cheers

450 or more would be nice, but keep in mind this is a dirty old carb that hasn't seen a rebuild any time lately. I'll be happy with what I'm getting until I can afford the weber

Thanks for the links Toonga, more options to consider. Would the MX5 conversion still work on a non-lifted car? And also when it comes to rear suspension are Brumbies and wagons identical? I was thinking they might be slightly different because one is a ute.

steptoe · Post by **steptoe** » Sat Oct 15, 2011 7:01 pm

On fuel distance - a (full) jerry can is good to learn the scope of your fuel range. Highway driving on my fresh EA81'd Brumby with the cam (your dad vetoed

) 609km (9.03 litres per hundred) before it chugged to a 55litre stop. A good way to suck the crap from the bottom of your tank too

so change filters after.

Yep, that brake noise - worse on cool damp mornings - normal. Haven't heard that since the Portland Oregon package came in - discs

Sam, to check part numbers rockauto have a great parts list, look up shock for BRAT, then your bullets year model and see if same part numbers come up

Cliff R · Post by **Cliff R** » Sun Oct 30, 2011 11:49 am

In reference to the comments above re the Monroe (?) gas-a-just shocks.
Anyone have a set of these and possibly a part number and supplier for them.
My 82 MY wagons rear shocks are stuffed and the current ones and 2nd hand off a Brumby.
Got the same rear brake clicking problem on the MY though I probably need to overhaul the brake cylinders and replace the shoes.