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our American counterparts have an idea, no pictures just text of how to adjust the camber in MY vehicles

ok so heres the standard setup with that raised lump on the right to tell you when you are at the maximum you can go inwards on



their sugestion is to drill, file or grind out these areas so there is more adjustment

now this is a 30 second job in Photoshop to explain the theory ? madness?



I believe it would work but my question is how dangerous is it on the whole car in general?

would taking of those plates and welding in longer ones be advisable ?
or would 5-10mm of elongated hole not make a big difference

I would think 5-10mm could make a lot of difference to the positive or negative camber

truely Im sick of this happening




and my $9 cashies camera rocks

TOONGA

You had your alignment checked ?
Sure that wear isnt caused by too much toe in ?

wouldn't that mean the strut would have to move closer to the engine? if so would there be enough room in the wheel arch area?

Hey Toonga,
I recall an older thread where this was discussd along with strut arrow orientation. Have no idea if silly or not.
http://www.k-mac.com.au/
cool avatar
cheers

the wheels came off of a wagon with the lift kit as well and were pretty chopped up when I got them

every subi I have ever owned has done this to tyres all were lifted all were looked after (to a point)

this is one of the threads I read on ultimate subaru check the l series lift kit

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/sho ... kit+camber

Im pretty sure there would be enough room next to the strut and remember the strut is now on a 2 inch block so it is futher down the tunnel

TOONGA

Yeah I know what you mean but if it's a good quality lift kit they would have made the strut tops with the correct camber alignment (offset so if you were looking directly down from the top, the strut would be in plumbob lined) and thus meaning the strut would still be in the original angle. What we used to see before with the early Subies was that when people wound up the suspension using the factory nuts on the front struts and rear torsion bar was that they didn't lower them back to standard after 4WDing and this would cause the tyres to wear out quicker on the outside. I'm sure that using something like the K-Mac system could get you better alignment but it sounds like there is something else that may be causing it. Only real way to tell is to get it on a alignment bench.

T'subaru wrote:Hey Toonga,
I recall an older thread where this was discussd along with strut arrow orientation. Have no idea if silly or not.
http://www.k-mac.com.au/
cool avatar
cheers

Yeah.. looks cool.. love how the house moves with it

feel your pulse as you watch my avatar

pics of the front and how it sits








Im thinking that even though the kit has what is meant to be the correct offset the tyres which are 215/65/14 are making the camber more pronounced

this little gem of information from the factory manual is very uninspiring



good one mr Subaru factory man
TOONGA



TOONGA

this is not a silly idea, I had the same thing on my old 81 MY, and I tryed the drill and file
out thing and it dose work, but I could not get the strut top over far enough to get the wheel sitting flat on the road, but it did help, it was better then befor I done it.

Rik.

We used to elongate the holes as well until we worked out the correct offset for the strut tops. Fix the strut tops and you will fix the problem.

TOONGA wrote:our American counterparts have an idea...

This made me laugh.
People were experimenting with slotting strut towers here in Australia over 20 years ago. Like you, I thought it sounded like a good idea at the time but suspension gurus will always talk you out of it. It's one of those band-aid solutions that might get you out of trouble but it's better to fix it properly if you can.

Outback bloke wrote:We used to elongate the holes as well until we worked out the correct offset for the strut tops. Fix the strut tops and you will fix the problem.

yeah thats the other option my question now whats the offset meant to be on a 50mm/2 inch kit

I was hoping not to pull them out again but I think it will have to happen I might still elongate the top holes as well

and a funny thing has happened i changed the balding wheel made sure the one I put on had the right pressure and now the front end is sitting way better

damn subaru

TOONGA

Hahaha.. good one Julian.. Tyre pressure

Just fix the the strut top. From what I've read around the traps is 15% so if you're planning to stick with 2" lift then you'll need the top and bottom plate to be offset by approx 13mm but I'd go a little more like 15mm.

get some l series lower arms, and the adjustable rods, and the longer driveshafts. you can have all the camber you want plus some caster too

I have said it heaps of times on here, 6mm per inch of lit.

I have said it heaps of times on here, 6mm per inch of lit.

thanks for that so between 12-15 mm of offset at the top of the strut

now I just have to pull the front apart (again) to make sure it is right oh joy

get some l series lower arms, and the adjustable rods, and the longer driveshafts. you can have all the camber you want plus some caster too

would love to but at this point in time money is an issue

TOONGA

Outback bloke wrote:I have said it heaps of times on here, 6mm per inch of lit.

Thanks Brett... I did do a search on here and spent 30mins without finding it anywhere but I'll write this down. Do you feel in your opinion that by making it more than 6mm/inch that we would have any issues? I'm only talking by a small amount.

wrxer wrote:get some l series lower arms, and the adjustable rods, and the longer driveshafts. you can have all the camber you want plus some caster too

That would work but an expensive way to go, especially the drive shafts.

its not detrimental at least on the l seires but it looks bloody ugly, i was looking at some more neg camber i think for my car and suggested it to dad, who laughed and said that if i did hed burn the car so hes making up some proper plates.
answer to this i thinks is get rid of the lift kit, get proper plates or i think you can get longer lower bits (see above) that will do the same job but youd then need guards i think.
and im not to sure if youd really get caster or if youd want it

was trolling the internet inbetween building traintacks for my 3 year old as one does when your a stay home daddy (pics of the train tracks later in open slather)

when I found somebodys solution to the problem , it is a 6 inch kit but what got me was the install

how it looks before it is enlarged,

notice a small problem?





how much noise would that make

pics stolen from here

http://www.subarubrat.com/hasseylift.htm


TOONGA

I believe that would be too hard to adjust/tighten those strut top nuts