Ej20t Brumby sus setup?

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SUBIIE
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Ej20t Brumby sus setup?

Post by SUBIIE » Sat Mar 30, 2013 2:16 pm

Hi Team,

Hoping to get some advice?

Have a brumby runnig a 94 wrx + drivetrain + 5 stud conversion.

Lowered all the engine and gearbox 2 inches but that seems to cause me some issues with ground clearance on our dirt road, so will go back to std.

But the car is great in a straight line, its when i start winding up the mt it handles likes an Eh falcon. I have "softened" the rear torsion bar and that has improved cornering, but was wondering what people thought i should go with?

Rear shock ........ kyb, kings?

Fronts ....... couliovers, std wrxs?

any help much appreciated.
1992 'Annivesary' Subaru Brumby, amp-6x9"'s-kevlar 6"'s-tweeters, power windows, and a 1995 WRX EJ20t engine finally installed, engineered and blue slipped. Wow, try and catch me up the mountain!
http://www.ausubaru.com/forum/showthread.php?t=13343
The horse feed car; 1988 subaru brumby, targa top, and in need of some tlc.
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RSR 555
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Post by RSR 555 » Sun Mar 31, 2013 3:34 am

What sort of speeds are you doing on the dirt road? I'd look at fitting the following. Coil-overs all round with adjustable caster tops for the front, nolathane bushes all round, adjustable camber rods, heavy duty sway bar up front and fit the RX sway bar on the rear.
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SUBIIE
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Post by SUBIIE » Tue May 28, 2013 8:14 pm

Thanks RSR,

Coil overs all around are going to cost a bit. But how do they mount on the rear if there is only enough room for a shock, no spring?

bushes, ok easy enough.

where am i finding an adjustable camber rod for a brumby?

sway bar done already

RX sway bar hey! Does it bolt in as a replacement to the torsion bar?
1992 'Annivesary' Subaru Brumby, amp-6x9"'s-kevlar 6"'s-tweeters, power windows, and a 1995 WRX EJ20t engine finally installed, engineered and blue slipped. Wow, try and catch me up the mountain!
http://www.ausubaru.com/forum/showthread.php?t=13343
The horse feed car; 1988 subaru brumby, targa top, and in need of some tlc.
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H-top
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Post by H-top » Tue May 28, 2013 8:37 pm

torsion bar?
H-Top

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H-top
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Post by H-top » Tue May 28, 2013 8:50 pm

i didnt think they had torsion bars? not that ive been under and MY
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Silverbullet
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Post by Silverbullet » Tue May 28, 2013 9:21 pm

MY's and Brumbies do have a torsion bar in the rear, that's why no springs or leaf springs.
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Post by El_Freddo » Tue May 28, 2013 10:09 pm

Hang on, has the engine and gearbox been dropped 2 inches from the body but the strut tops still in the factory position?

If so your front end is all over the joint geometry wise and won't ever corner well in this configuration. Disco used to talk about how the control arm has to have the ball joint on the lower side of the arm's pivot to make the front end work properly - it's got something to do with how the arch that the hub has to follow changes the camber of the wheel as the weight of the vehicle shifts to the out side cornering wheel.
If the control arm is already "inverted" from a factory stance there's no extending of the arch outwards, it will have the hub on an inwards movement as the suspension compresses, this in turn will be creating the wrong camber you're after for cornering.

That's from what I understood/remember from his posts. It might be worth looking into it. 2 inch drop on the engine crossmember just seems too much! I've heard of half an inch or so but not that amount!

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Post by Scoobie Doobie » Wed May 29, 2013 6:24 pm

Hey SUBIIE
SUBIIE wrote:
sway bar done already
Mate, I've got a similar set up to yours, well note quite finished but 90% there, the only difference being I've only dropped my g'box and engine a inch and fitted coilovers at the front. Standard suspension in the rear, just dialed right down. Drives great on the roads and corners fairly well but I haven't tried it on dirt. The coliovers are a bit harsh over bumps but allow the one inch to be brought back, when you wind them down, thats how I got around that issue.

On a side note, how did you fit your sway bar, any chance of a pic, I'm just at that stage now and need some advice.


SUBIIE wrote:
RX sway bar hey! Does it bolt in as a replacement to the torsion bar?
RSR,

also interested in that, any more info??

cheers

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Post by niterida » Wed May 29, 2013 6:36 pm

SUBIIE wrote: RX sway bar hey! Does it bolt in as a replacement to the torsion bar?
The torsion bar is doing the job of a spring so a sway bar would be complementing it not replacing it.
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Post by steptoe » Thu May 30, 2013 8:14 am

Think Paul means an L Series RX rear sway bar, unless the 4WD MY sedans that NZ got and we didn't also came out as an RX and had a rear sway bar - maybe he has one !
An L Series rear sway bar would need some shortening each end to fit in an MY arse end - not hard I guess, and just some after market style U bolt clamping in a few places.

I have just pulled a 12mm? pinky finger thin sway bar from a FWD Vortex Turbo with idea of in my Brums bum but the diff likely in its way :(

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Post by steptoe » Thu May 30, 2013 8:16 am

adjustable camber rods are sourced and modified from old Falcons. Seen Mitsu L300's in an EJ'd Brumby as well

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Post by SUBIIE » Sun Jun 02, 2013 7:54 am

Scoobie doobie and el freddo. I went the 2 inches because that's what I thought i needed for clearance. But it is absolutely the thing ruining the steering. Want to treat the gap between bonnet n engine and then bring it back up.

Sway bar was made, luckily by a guy in town who makes custom sway bars for a Sydney company. He is in Nowra.

not sure on this replacement torsion bar.
1992 'Annivesary' Subaru Brumby, amp-6x9"'s-kevlar 6"'s-tweeters, power windows, and a 1995 WRX EJ20t engine finally installed, engineered and blue slipped. Wow, try and catch me up the mountain!
http://www.ausubaru.com/forum/showthread.php?t=13343
The horse feed car; 1988 subaru brumby, targa top, and in need of some tlc.
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SUBIIE
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Post by SUBIIE » Wed Jun 05, 2013 7:34 pm

So talk me through this replacement torsion bar?
1992 'Annivesary' Subaru Brumby, amp-6x9"'s-kevlar 6"'s-tweeters, power windows, and a 1995 WRX EJ20t engine finally installed, engineered and blue slipped. Wow, try and catch me up the mountain!
http://www.ausubaru.com/forum/showthread.php?t=13343
The horse feed car; 1988 subaru brumby, targa top, and in need of some tlc.
Image

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steptoe
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Post by steptoe » Thu Jun 06, 2013 7:55 am

SUBIIE wrote: clearance
You mean clearance of EJ engine to underside of bonnet not underbody clearance of your driveway ?

Your so far unanswered query on adjustable torsion bars - only know of the adjuster on the front top side of the diff and stories of people pulling torsion bars out and refitting a tooth out to change things.
Adjustable radius rods came from Bluesteel Johnny in Tasmania

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SUBIIE
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Post by SUBIIE » Wed Jun 26, 2013 7:47 pm

getting back to the main point.

has anyone had no spacers on the engine and gbox xmember on an ej20t setup in a brumby?
1992 'Annivesary' Subaru Brumby, amp-6x9"'s-kevlar 6"'s-tweeters, power windows, and a 1995 WRX EJ20t engine finally installed, engineered and blue slipped. Wow, try and catch me up the mountain!
http://www.ausubaru.com/forum/showthread.php?t=13343
The horse feed car; 1988 subaru brumby, targa top, and in need of some tlc.
Image

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Rodeo4jake
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Post by Rodeo4jake » Thu Jun 27, 2013 4:11 am

Hey guys, I've only ever read that you need to space this setup down an inch. So maybe try some smaller spacers for a start.
Also on the rear swaybar subject, checkout an Addco rear bar from the us. I got mine from Jegs over there. It has really improved the handling a lot. Turns in nice & tucks the rear end well. Gets sideways heaps easier on fast dirt roads too, If ya like that. There's more details on this in the suspension section of the forum.

Cheers Jake

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steptoe
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Post by steptoe » Thu Jun 27, 2013 8:22 am

The first EJ20...actually, the second EJ20 Brumby I have seen, got to inspect and go for a ride in - I did not look or ask if it was spaced/raised - certainly did not look it as it looked so factory on the outside I was looking elsewhere for the Rex note!

I do think I can get to see the first one, sitting forlornly in a secure yard, no engine or box in it no more. It went turbo very early in the days when it was not done ..about 98 or 99!

I'll have a look and report back......

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