Fury wrote:I am using adjustable WRX Eibach racing coilovers, and a 25mm rear sway bar, with Fulcrum poly bushes, very stiff. Ride height is higher than I had it from the previous post of mine (dated 09), with the rear tyres now at the same height as the arch, the fronts, about 30 mm from the top of the arch.
I am using 17" wrx alloy rims and 45 profile tyres, which are only 2/3s the weight of the originals and approx the same shaft angles as original. I believe that the offset is as close as you'll get without using bog standard rims. ( the larger wheels fill the wheel arch, but the hub is in approx the same position as original)
I was one of the first to use the Crossbred kit, ( using modified front control arms) and have had no problems at all with the front to date and only recently having issues to replace a rear bearing / shaft. Even tyre wear is remarkably good.
It handles like a go cart on rails, but long trips ( on old road surfaces)become tiresome as it is very bumpy. ( I'm old...
lol)
The XT6 stuff, is not much different to a std L, except for 5 stud hubs but the XT/ Vortex AWD turbo, has a heavier, 25mm sway bar.
If an EJ engine and WRX / Liberty hub setup, ( as mine is) the std front shafts are under compression all the time. Chris Rogers spent a lot of time with Driveline services getting his wagon correctly setup, using fwd carby shafts converted to suit the inner and outer splines of the EJ and XT6 which apparently are pretty close.
I am looking at something similar when mine are redone, hopefully soon.
I think you'll find that if you are using a 25mm diameter rear anti roll bar it isn't a Subaru factory part . From memory the USDM WSMs quote XT6 rear bars as 19mm .
Also the XT6 front axle shafts are a unique length being longer than RX L /XT4 (same) and shorter than 1st gen Libertys .
The reason they are different is that XT6s use a front knuckle/CV joint thats different , shorter , than RX L / XT4 . These XT6 knuckles are not dimensionally the same as ist gen Lib either . They were also a hybrid meaning they had the caliper mounting ears set up to take the L type handbrake caliper rather than early Lib/Leg ones .
Also you are going to find that positive camber and negative caster are both wrong for good handling . The hardest thing to change markedly is the front caster because theres not really enough tower room to get the tops back far enough and you soon run out of wheel arch if you push the strut feet forward . Really the only way is to make up or extensively modify front control arms that allow the bottoms of the struts to be forward as far as possible without the tyres rubbing on the fronts of the arches . Then you have to make up one off radius/caster rods because the std ones are not long enough to do the job properly . People can make these rods properly so don't resort to rubbish Ford ones just because thats easy . When they break and you crash the savings are more than used up , possibly along with your car .
Then you need to have spherical joint strut tops made to get the struts back and small diameter springs and hats so they dont foul on the rear of the strut well .
I would be very suprised to find that 17" wheels and good tyres were lighter than OE XT6 14" ones unless these wheels were something exotic like the better Enkeis Rays etc forged ones .
I put Enkei RPF1s on my Lancer and they weigh 7.5 Kg in 17 x 8.5 , the 235/45/17 Michy PP3s weigh more than the rims . The std boots are 17 x 7.5 and 225/45/17 tyres . These Enkeis are Evo specific so the offset is std .
By comparison I think my rails are better than yours .
A .
, my tinkering springs also have to go back into my sedan. The 4WD wagon rear springs may get tinkering cuts too
