How to make your Subaru run cooler!

JPM · Post by **JPM** » Sun Aug 21, 2011 12:42 pm

Interesting reading, thought I'd share it with everybody else!

Theory seems sound.

http://mrtperformance.com.au/resources/ ... ing-theirs

Any comments? Pro's/ con's to trying the mods suggested?

Regards
Jayd

Post by **TOONGA** » Sun Aug 21, 2011 12:59 pm

from what I understand of the article, the big problem is air forming in the pump at high revs over time (cavitation).

so the theory of making the thermostat outlet bigger to let more water out to let more water in from the engine, to stop cavitation looks sound.

Mind you having a custom made alloy radiator like his would help as well.

TOONGA

YouTube · Post by **El_Freddo** » Sun Aug 21, 2011 1:33 pm

TOONGA wrote:Mind you having a custom made alloy radiator like his would help as well.

Or a brass copper unit if you're going to be offroading - these radiators can be repaired to get you home, alloy units cannot...

Cheers

Bennie

FROG · Post by **FROG** » Sun Aug 21, 2011 2:08 pm

JPM wrote:Interesting reading, thought I'd share it with everybody else!

Theory seems sound.

http://mrtperformance.com.au/resources/ ... ing-theirs

Any comments? Pro's/ con's to trying the mods suggested?

Regards
Jayd

Written by one of our own

from memory I introduced him to this forum when he was researching and developing that
member.php?u=5735

http://www.subaru-svx.net/forum/showthread.php?t=51702
interesting read here too

steptoe · Post by **steptoe** » Sun Aug 21, 2011 7:26 pm

quite a read, he has got results. I was thinking he has removed the thermostat, it is a flow control ain't it? designed to slow water down so it can absorb the heat from engine metal and have it in radiator long enough to cool within reason for recirculating. Thought that was his problem in his tinkering.

Allhead Service in Melbourne have their own water pump cavitation theories and approaches , tapping air breather lines in strategic poits leadint to header tank.

I'll come back for a reread later......

INEEDABEER · Post by **INEEDABEER** » Sun Aug 21, 2011 8:29 pm

I would have thought if you make an engine run too cold it will cause the engine to run richer.

Wagonman · Post by **Wagonman** » Sun Aug 21, 2011 8:58 pm

It's interesting that he says putting the thermostat in-line on the top hose is better? The thermostat is down near the bottom hose on an EJ22.. Should I be moving it?

Also with two EJ22's that i know no history of have both had no thermostat. I've put one in now before i put in my L series, do ya reckon i'll run into problems when i get it running?

taza · Post by **taza** » Sun Aug 21, 2011 9:34 pm

On another note for making a Subaru run cooler I have done an always on switch for both my radiator fans, only used for hot days when on the beach, dunes or out bush in the rocks and ruts. It does help too

I don't find that my EJ20 overheats though, even when its 40degrees and im powering along on the dunes. Sometimes the temp gauage goes up a few mm but never into the hot zone

steptoe · Post by **steptoe** » Sun Aug 21, 2011 9:59 pm

Have read somewhere in trade magazine? by cooling component company that the best fuel efficiency is achieved with an engine temperature of 95 C to answer the question asked of colder temp running. I guess an engne can lost longer running colder than it can running too hot. He has been working on stuff for non road going stuff revvin' at 6000 too eh?