Front CV's

Punisher · Post by **Punisher** » Thu Nov 26, 2009 9:40 pm

My Front CV's are getting bad. What happens when they actually fail ?
Loss of drive, wheel lock up?

I was hoping to hold out till I found a EJ 2.2 so I didnt have to replace them, or do you use the EA82 drive shafts in the conversion?

drof351 · Post by **drof351** » Thu Nov 26, 2009 10:28 pm

G'day, yeah if you demolish a cv you will lose drive. Im trying to find out what the go is with an EJ20 auto conversion to my L series. I put the engine and gearbox in last night and now don't know what to do about the drive shafts.

AndrewT · Post by **AndrewT** » Thu Nov 26, 2009 10:49 pm

Punisher - If you use your original gearbox then you don't need to touch driveshafts. Most people keep their original gearbox when converting to an EJ22 by using an adaptor plate. It's tried and tested and works great.

Drof351 - if your driveshafts don't match up after changing gearboxes then it's likely you have a 23 or 25 spline mis-match. The gearbox stubs are either 23 or 25 spline and this has to match your inner CV cups. Just swap inner CV cups for whichever ones you need, they are interchangable on the shafts - take the whole shaft to a CV joint place for them to do it if you aren't sure.

Punisher · Post by **Punisher** » Sat Nov 28, 2009 10:29 am

Thanks Andrew.

Where are the adaptor plates available from ?
Or does someone have a pattern to have one made ?

AndrewT · Post by **AndrewT** » Sun Nov 29, 2009 10:18 am

I think BYB might still be making the steel ones.

Otherwise they are easy to make out of 12mm aluminium. There might be a pattern floating around somewhere but I don't advise doing it this way, even if you get it slightly off the pattern it won't work. It's better to use the actual gearbox and engine themselves as the template once you get them on the floor next to each other, that way it's garanteed to be acurate and work.

drof351 · Post by **drof351** » Sun Nov 29, 2009 10:27 am

Gday AndrewT, I have tried putting the ej cv onto the l series shaft but the shafts are different. I'm getting a machinist to re-spline it to suit.

AndrewT · Post by **AndrewT** » Sun Nov 29, 2009 5:58 pm

You don't need to put EJ CVs onto the L series shaft, you just use 25 spline L series CV's to suit the 25 spline EJ stubs that are on the EJ gearbox. They came stock on MPFI and turbo L series models.
You can buy complete L series shafts with 25 spline inners brand new for ~$175 or so (same price as the carby 23spline ones), or just get 25 spline inner cups put onto your existing shafts. They fit fine, no machining required at all.

drof351 · Post by **drof351** » Sun Nov 29, 2009 6:48 pm

Thanks, So L Series turbo inner cv's fit the L series shafts and the EJ AWD auto gearbox? It was only gonna be $100 bucks per shaft to get them re-splined but if i can just buy cv's that'll be good. Thanks AndrewT

drof351 · Post by **drof351** » Sun Nov 29, 2009 7:09 pm

Do you know if that can be done for the rear also? I'm hoping to use the EJ diff as well if it bolts up. Thats the job for tomorrow

AndrewT · Post by **AndrewT** » Sun Nov 29, 2009 7:26 pm

Yeah sounds like the re-splining would be similar cost then, however you end up with a one-off customised part then rather than common-or-garden parts that can be swapped easily and are readily available off the shelf later down the track when you need replacements possibly at short notice.
Yeah L series turbo or MPFI ones (25 spline inner CV cup) will suit 25 spline male stub axels which is probably what your gearbox has sticking out the side - best to double check tho.

If it's an early EJ rear diff with male stub axels on it then yeh, it's exactly the same as an L series one externally and will bolt straight in.

drof351 · Post by **drof351** » Sun Nov 29, 2009 7:38 pm

Excellent I like the sound of that! What do you know about converting the shifters?

$700 for a complete running driving 98 sportswagon and a couple hundred on shafts sounds good, and so far about 5 hours work to remove ea82 and fit ej20 and gearbox and had it running in the car

AndrewT · Post by **AndrewT** » Sun Nov 29, 2009 7:45 pm

Nice, sounds like you've got it sussed. Like most people tho the wiring is always the stumbling block, but hopefully u can find someone to do it.

Unfortunately I've only had experience with adapting manual shifters into L series. Auto I have no idea but imagine it can't be too hard, I've heard of it being done. At a guess though I'd say it probably wants to come through the floor too far back so parts of it will likely need to be shortened. Best thing is to physically try fitting them and see what you rekon.

drof351 · Post by **drof351** » Sun Nov 29, 2009 7:51 pm

I've modified the L series shifter to take the EJ model cable, its just a matter of positioning it right, there isnt much room. I'm trying to keep the switch on the standard shifter so it still lights up the dash but means i cant select first because it's going from a 3 speed to a four speed, but that doesn't bother me.

Punisher · Post by **Punisher** » Mon Dec 07, 2009 4:22 pm

Ok, time to buy some CV's ...

The old man tells me that generally its only the outers that need replacing. ( hes a retired mechanic ), so im thinking of going for these ebay specials ( the local joint is 3 x more expencive ) http://cgi.ebay.com.au/SUBARU-4WD-auto- ... 27a082341e

2 year unlimited warranty seems pretty good. Anybody bought from these guys before ?

YouTube · Post by **El_Freddo** » Tue Dec 08, 2009 12:50 pm

I've not bought any CV parts off ebay - I prefer to deal with a store incase that anything goes wrong with the item I have a place to go, rather than an email address that can dissolve overnight. I paid a little extra for a set of front shafts - $330 in total including GST with a one year warranty.

If you're all for giving it a go with a replacement CV go for it

Cheers

Bennie

Punisher · Post by **Punisher** » Tue Dec 08, 2009 4:05 pm

Yea ... ordered a couple of outers today.
They are very quick to respond to emails, have been ebay sellers for 4 years and have a very high rating. They also sell a whole range of spares.

Likewise, I would prefer to buy localy but they are 3 times the price.

YouTube · Post by **El_Freddo** » Thu Dec 10, 2009 6:24 pm

Punisher wrote:Yea ... ordered a couple of outers today.
They are very quick to respond to emails, have been ebay sellers for 4 years and have a very high rating. They also sell a whole range of spares.

Likewise, I would prefer to buy localy but they are 3 times the price.

Fair enough. I'd be keen to know how they go and how hard you found it to replace the parts yourself

Best of luck!

Cheers

Bennie

Punisher · Post by **Punisher** » Tue Jan 19, 2010 8:42 pm

Well, finally bit the bullet and had a go at doing one of the CV's today.
It took me a while but wasnt all that difficult. Expect the other side will be much quicker.

I battled to get the inner pin back in for a while. Kept putting in the pin and had it only going half way and wouldnt go any further. Then I pulled the shaft out and turned it 180 deg and it went in.

Putting the CV on the shaft was my biggest worry before starting, but with the help of a small hose clamp to compress the clip and a quick tap of the hammer it was in.

Punisher · Post by **Punisher** » Fri Jan 22, 2010 10:48 pm

CV number 2 in.
Took me about 3 hours and that was with about an hour of looking for the dam CV pin. How the hell did it get down in the gearbox mount ...

I recon if everything went to plan, and I had a hoist and air tools, and the force was with me, I could do one in under an hour ...

ScubyRoo · Post by **ScubyRoo** » Sun Jan 24, 2010 10:03 am

Punisher wrote:CV number 2 in.
Took me about 3 hours and that was with about an hour of looking for the dam CV pin. How the hell did it get down in the gearbox mount ...

I recon if everything went to plan, and I had a hoist and air tools, and the force was with me, I could do one in under an hour ...

I feel your pain! I know on the ej cv's, one side of the pin hole on the cup is bored out, that's the side the pin goes in from. One tip is to either get it started in the cup before you go under the car, or mark the receiving hole with white out so you know you're onto the right hole. I found the pin itself seemed to have a prefered direction to go in too, maybe they're slightly flared

I changed over all the front cv boots the other day after I had one boot split, I reckon the left side took me 3 hours to completely remove, service and reinstall, and the right side too less than an hour.... Things go a lot quicker when you know what you're doing eh?!