your ideas for my trailer cage gate

steptoe · Post by **steptoe** » Thu Dec 30, 2010 7:46 pm

I have knocked up a cage for my 7' x 4' trailer (yes, we still use imperial after 37 years of metric!!) out of 30x30 1.6 square tube to use mesh 800mm high giving me mesh sides 860mm higher than trailer sides. Have made up two sides that drop in corner post holes of trailer and a front end that bolts into place for dismantability.

Now what to do on the back end. I could do a one piece that either
a. hinges on the left side so if drive away forgetting to check gate you could wipe out a pedestrian ( or two

)

b. hinge on the right side so if left untethered when driving away can see it swing and just miss that luxo car driving by

Or do shutter style pigeon pair left and right hinged - share the risk, reduce the sweep

Or one that swings out and up and over top - creating a hindrance of the top bit for tall stuff

Or just one that hangs on a pin hinge on both sides and lift off

Keeping in mind have seen one piece gates hinged either side tend to fatigue one side and they rattle like crap on the latch side.
Torsional twist of trailer .....

Thinking maybe using the weld on butt hinges (Goliath with ball bearing in base) on one side with same hinges on latch side so they can be swung either way (to get a mix of pedestrians and Rollers), and have to lift off say 10mm to get it swing on prefered right side, so the left butt pins are set 10mm higher than those on right.

Was thinking of doing total new tail gate frame and mesh as one gate with built in ramp which would always be a lift up no swinging gate

Use mainly as handyman sort of thing trailing mower,whipper snapper, blower and edger tool, brooms rakes'n'stuff etc , maybe a camping trailer to live in (says he who has not camped out overnight - for whole night - EVER! ) at least it is long enough!

Your suggestions and criticisms welcome and taken onboard

hazzard · Post by **hazzard** » Thu Dec 30, 2010 8:59 pm

Id go swing to the right at least u will see it fling round (maybe) before it hits a nice new expensive car

bonzaman · Post by **bonzaman** » Thu Dec 30, 2010 9:03 pm

make it one big fold down gate that can double as a ramp.or a double hinge fold down,where you could fold or remove top section or fold both sections together

spambo · Post by **spambo** » Thu Dec 30, 2010 9:31 pm

Yep i'd go the fold down, the problem with the swing to left or right is it always bashes against something and damages it or you back in somewhere and forget to open the gate and now it won't open all the way, at least with the fold down you won.t forget to shut it
just my $1.50 worth......

Gannon · Post by **Gannon** » Thu Dec 30, 2010 9:33 pm

I second the fold down ramp idea. Might come in handy for wheeling an EA82T or full time 4wd gearbox into the trailer on a trolly

coxy · Post by **coxy** » Thu Dec 30, 2010 10:06 pm

I would definately go the ramp style,you could always use one of those 12 volt ATV winghes to power it as a lifting unit as well.
Main reason I mention the winch is if you make it strong enough to be usefull as a ramp it will be heavy and you can pick up those winches quite cheap of ebay and various tool shops these days in a range of capacities.

If you made the 12 volt winch easily removable it can do double duty as well as a lifting unit and possibly for off roading with the Subie if you get the right one.

brumbyrunner · Post by **brumbyrunner** » Thu Dec 30, 2010 10:54 pm

Can't imagine why a mesh ramp would be a good idea on the back of a trailer but even if it was built from sheet or ply, the problem with ramps is they invariably get bent from heavy objects or people or if they get dropped.
Door hinged on one side and fastened securely will give your cage more structural integrity than a door on each side fastened together.
If you design the hinges effectively, you should be able to lock the door back against the side of the cage thus preventing it from swinging around if you forget to close it.

1111giles · Post by **1111giles** » Thu Dec 30, 2010 11:45 pm

Jonno - forget the rest -and follow the popular vote- go for the drop down / ramp style.
You will hear it scraping the floor if (when ) you forget to raise it before driving off ! = posh nob in his LUX car wont be chasing you to court

We used to make trailers ' KLIPONOFF' brand here - any other kind of hinge or holding system will fail very quickly - at least this way you can do a belt and braces engineering jobbie !

Pictures please Mr Jonno !

ps are you going to badge it as a Subaru 'sibling' ?:mrgreen:

Willie · Post by **Willie** » Fri Dec 31, 2010 7:08 am

I built a similar cage for my 6' x 4' trailer a few years back. Sounds similar - where the posts slide into existing post holes in each corner. Mesh sides welded to the uprights give its structural stability. Its done a couple of trips in and out of Darwin and all up and down the eastern sea-board and still holding together. The rear end is a hinged gate, hinged o n the off-side. the original drop-down tail gate is still there. This set-up allows the trailer to be used with or without the cage.
I agree with brumbyrunner - a ramp will need to be very strong to take loads and people walking up it. I considered this, but as I wanted to be able to use the trailer sans cage also, went with current design.
Most importantly though is that it should be constructed to meet your needs. If you need a ramp for a ride on mower or motorbikes (for example), then take the effort to build a strong ramp. Keep in mind the weight this will add to the rear of the trailer, too. You may need to add weight forward of the axle to keep correct weight distribution. I have two spares bolted to my extended draw-bar that adds a bit of weight forward - might be worth considering.

steptoe · Post by **steptoe** » Fri Dec 31, 2010 7:45 am

Some good points raised here thanks.

I overlooked the need to be able to pin swing gate back to a side if go that way.

To easily revert to a non cage box trailer is also a thought

Weight too as this goes behind an EA81. I have filled it to the gunnels with household and garden junk - 3.6 cubic meters of lightweight stuff and Brumby handled it quite well.

May go with easy make option of one swing gate and if ever get heavy ride on gear make a ramp for later.

Oh, and Giles, finally saw a 4WD access style trailer with independent rubber suspension! And it may all get a Coral Red hammertone paint finish to distinguish it amongst all the hammer tone greys and look a better match for a red Subaru

tony · Post by **tony** » Sat Jan 01, 2011 2:48 am

Make the rear door out of mesh, much lighter and less stress on hinges, and with mine I got it hinged on the kerb side so I don't have to stand out on the road when opening or closing it and also tilted the hinges so the gate swings closed when not fixed, and have to lift it slightly when opening fully and folding back along side the cage, it drops slightly when so opened and locks it self in place so you have to make a deliberate effort to open or close it, and is less likely swing when you forget. Also I frequently have longer items in the trailer so need to have the gate open, folding it right back method allows that.
mind you it has come open when on corrugated roads when folded open, but does have to keep an eye on it, have a rope to tie it in place.

dibs · Post by **dibs** » Sat Jan 01, 2011 6:18 am

love this thread starts of imperial goes to metrik strait of now that sounds like me.lmao how long O 100 mill give or take an inch hahaha. i hired a cage trailer once with a drop down tail gate imo to much wind resistance as it was made from sheat steel

i got a 6x4 x telstra typing trailer for sale .has hyd jack to tip bit heavy but built strong and been gall diped .
any 1 interested yell out

dibs

steptoe · Post by **steptoe** » Sat Jan 01, 2011 2:31 pm

Oh yep, gate will be same 30x30 x1.6 SHS with mesh so weight not really an issue unless I go reinforcing things to buggery

Good point on gate swinging to kerbside for self OH&S

Look out for that fella in the hinge aisle at Bummings - he's visually assessing all your suggestions.

Was thinking I need to know what I am making before I start - may just make up frame that fits the hole and work around that.

Ta,

steptoe · Post by **steptoe** » Sat Jan 01, 2011 9:17 pm

I reckon I got my monies worth in air conditioned comfort while I ummed and arred in the aisle (wish it was an isle!) at Bummings and decided to tinker with the broken open pack of hinges. Bought a left and right set -eventually- of weld-on butt hinges with ball bearing pivot inside . Just as well I got both (after trip #2

)as it was the right set that did the job with a small clearance issue solved with a hacksaw. Also did a mix and match with L and R bits that could have rendered the remaining parts useless. The mix would get a full swing back down the side yet my idea of lift off the hinges will allow me to shove cage gate inside should I have shtuff longer than seven feet

Remembered using a right hinged trailer cage where approach is made from nature strip in safety and gate is on street side.

Also spotted a trailer in my travels that was hinged on the left. Looked awkward and in thinking of my fellow man it is better to write off his car than his family walking down the street

Twin shutter style gates meeting in the middle - I can see flex issues with the catch etc, and can see a full ramp style would be better engineering- wise.

So, gone right hinged on these monster Goliath hinges and gonna use one or two on the kerbside to either double hinge its options or just as a catch - like lift the cage door 15mm or so to get it off the kerbside hinge(s) and swing on the right, figuring it will help keep things tight in transit instead of clanging about like many trailers. It will however never swing closed on its own - will require some thought on the users part

Made the frame 1200 wide, 860 high, but too late to rip into the grind off crap and clean up inconsistent welding - neighbours partyed a bit last night or this morning

.

And as a side note, not to kill off dibs offer, I was asking preferences on 6x4 or 7x4 and many said go the 7x as the extra 300mm

comes in handy, otherwise the tailgate needs to be dealt with. I wrenched with the extra foot of trailer to deal with in parking, storage etc, and the extra $100, but went for it

GLAD I did now, as I have shifted some shtuff that would have required a second effort or trip to shift it all with a six footer a few times now, and same goes for the cage. Commercially available one to suit the trailer is only 600mm high (stuffed if I know what side their hinge is on! ) for princely $500 or did he bump it to $600? Mate with 500 or 600 high said to go 900 or more , again, GLAD I did. Cost so far is about $250 in materials.

Then at the tip an 8 x 5 gets through at same price as a 6x4 and 7 x 4. Paying the extra for the trailer in the beginning is starting to pay off already. Now, if only an 8 x 5 would be possible on the back of the Brumby without taking over the direction of steer !

steptoe · Post by **steptoe** » Mon Jan 03, 2011 9:52 pm

Done and dusted. Went with the heavy duty house style gate hinge on the right side and ended up inverted a left kiltered hinged inverted at the top of the cage and gate to act as a guide pin to shut at the correct height, clearance of tailgate, and squareness. Gives it good support when closed. Fitted a Laurie Lawrence endorsed magnetic pool fence latch that works well. In open position the plunger is fully open by internal spring?, as soon as it lines up with the catch strong magnet locks her in!