Need Info

rtcb65 · Post by **rtcb65** » Sat Jun 20, 2009 8:06 am

As the title says, i am after info from any one who might be able to tell me about painting. A few new cars and some older models are hot gal dipped before paint is applied.
What i wont to know is, we apply cold gal to save the metal as we strip it back. Can an etch be applied to the cold gal and the undercoat and so on. I don't wish to do it to a project car and then find out it don't work / reject it , and the paint fall off.
But by applying the cold gal and leaving it on , it will be like a poor mans hot gal dip and help save the car . Or is there a similar product that does the same thing.
We wish to do what it takes to help the car last as long as possible. The more well protected M.Y. 's the better.

I hope some one can help out. Or might know someone they can get the info from in the industry.

We will be great full for any help .

rtcb65 · Post by **rtcb65** » Sat Jun 20, 2009 7:34 pm

I thought there would be at least a couple of people on the forum to have auto painting experience .

phillatdarwin · Post by **phillatdarwin** » Sat Jun 20, 2009 8:43 pm

i have read some thing about panting over cold gal some wear .
see if u can find by Google it .
but i know it can be done .

32ford · Post by **32ford** » Sun Jun 21, 2009 4:30 am

http://www.gaa.com.au/members_directory/members_q.html

the directory of the galvanizers association of australia might help. I etch primed over cold gal on a bicycle frame and the paint has stayed on for 3 years so far, I guess the push bike doesnt have to put up with high pressure washes though.

rtcb65 · Post by **rtcb65** » Sun Jun 21, 2009 7:37 am

phillatdarwin wrote:i have read some thing about panting over cold gal some wear .
see if u can find by Google it .
but i know it can be done .

It can be general purpose painted over , but i am wondering if it will take and keep a quality job.

32ford wrote:http://www.gaa.com.au/members_directory/members_q.html

the directory of the galvanizers association of australia might help. I etch primed over cold gal on a bicycle frame and the paint has stayed on for 3 years so far, I guess the push bike doesnt have to put up with high pressure washes though.

Thanks for the site. And a push bike doesn't travel at 100 + klms an hour. But if it lasted for 3 years . That is a + towards it working. As for a pressure washer, i don't know who would use a pressure washer on the paint work of there car. I stick to a sponge and suds.

dibs · Post by **dibs** » Sun Jun 21, 2009 7:47 am

gday m8

i often thought why you guys dont use penatrol to stop surface rust .since you use it as a rust proofer. the only thing you cant put it undr is 2 pack.
i got bits on my trucks with only pressure pack stuff and its still not showing any sign of rusting .

dibs

rtcb65 · Post by **rtcb65** » Sun Jun 21, 2009 7:55 am

Hey dibs, We still use penatrol. It is used every time we apply a coat of anything. It is magic stuff. But the idea is to go even more protection. The idea is to try something close to a hot gal dip with out the hot and dip part. It is most likely asking the impossible, but if there is a way, i wont to find it so we can apply it to our project cars to add longer life to them. The more M.Y.s the better.

phillatdarwin · Post by **phillatdarwin** » Sun Jun 21, 2009 2:10 pm

try the old gal stick and a oxy /wire brush then treat so that u can pant it .
then u will get no rust all

chubby37 · Post by **chubby37** » Mon Jun 22, 2009 8:14 pm

most rust treatments you can buy should if let dry be painted over..the main thing is get good coverage with primer...2pak can be a funny paint but i have not had any issues with it and rust converters...if in dought with top coats use a dust coat first then go heavier..dust coats will give the paint some bite