Turboing a non turbo diesel. Discuss

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Gannon
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Turboing a non turbo diesel. Discuss

Post by Gannon » Tue Dec 09, 2008 7:40 pm

I have had a thought and i want verification that i am on the right track.

On dads farm, there is a 30hp 4cly diesel engine out of a Japanese rice harvester powering an irrigator (large volume and pressure) centrifugal water pump.

The engine runs at max throttle to maintain the required pump RPM and thus pressure to supply the irrigator.

At max throttle, the little engine is throwing out heaps of blue smoke (unbrunt fuel) trying to maintain power.

If we geared it lower, it'd have to rev higher to achieve the required pump RPM, if we geared it higher, it would labour even more.


My idea.......

Add a turbo!

The extra air that the turbo provides will use up that un burnt fuel and give a little more power so i can run at lower throttle.

I have been told that i would need to mod the injector pump to give extra fueling under boost, but i figured that seeing that there is already unburnt fuel coming out the exhaust, and i only plan on running low boost, it wouldnt be a problem.

I was thinking of using a 2nd hand turbo from a twin turbo liberty.
Current rides: 2016 Mitsubishi Triton GLS & 2004 Forester X
Ongoing Project/Toy: 1987 RX Turbo EA82T, Speeduino ECU, Coil-pack ignition, 440cc Injectors, KONI adjustale front struts, Hybrid L Series/ Liberty AWD 5sp
Past rides: 92 L series turbo converted wagon, 83 Leone GL Sedan, 2004 Liberty GT Sedan & 2001 Outback
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Ben
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Post by Ben » Wed Dec 10, 2008 5:17 pm

Do it, use the smallest turbo you can find (maybe a sherpa 658cc engine one?) no more than 6psi boost and see what happens!

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Gannon
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Post by Gannon » Wed Dec 10, 2008 6:05 pm

How big is the smallest turbo from a Gen2 GT?

This thing doesnt have to be drivable, it needs a turbo that will provide boost at maximum power, that is all. So maybe a bigger turbo will be fine. I had better work out what RPM it runs at.

My biggest problem is convincing dad to let me modify his motor. Although my father in law does have an old diesel rodeo sitting in the paddock, and the motor still runs.
Current rides: 2016 Mitsubishi Triton GLS & 2004 Forester X
Ongoing Project/Toy: 1987 RX Turbo EA82T, Speeduino ECU, Coil-pack ignition, 440cc Injectors, KONI adjustale front struts, Hybrid L Series/ Liberty AWD 5sp
Past rides: 92 L series turbo converted wagon, 83 Leone GL Sedan, 2004 Liberty GT Sedan & 2001 Outback
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Xtreme_RX
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Post by Xtreme_RX » Wed Dec 10, 2008 6:24 pm

Is the diesel a full mechanical injection?
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Wilbur
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Post by Wilbur » Wed Dec 10, 2008 7:01 pm

Eeerrr blue smoke isn't fuel......that'd be black smoke. And it should be able to be adjusted assuming it is unburnt fuel. The engine will run better if it's tuned and a little bit on the lean side. Will also run cooler and make it's rated power. Ie get a diesel bloke to look at it or find one to chat with.

As for the turbo....you'll need a manifold for it and other stuff like oil and or water lines, and more than likely a boost compensator for your injection pump. IMHO, if it works don't touch it. You're asking for trouble. A pump that works is just that. It's not really a bunch of fun to make someones water pump nonfunctional by tinkering. Leave it for something that doesn't cost someone money if it breaks.
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Matatak
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Post by Matatak » Wed Dec 10, 2008 7:15 pm

blue smoke = Oil ?
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BBoypebs
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Post by BBoypebs » Wed Dec 10, 2008 7:56 pm

Blue smoke= oil
Cheap japanese engine= bad news.
You can pick up a cheap second had perkins 4cly (41-50hp)
for about the same price as rebuilding and turbo charging the existing engine.
Is it direct drive or does it have a reduction drive to the pump.
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Gannon
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Post by Gannon » Thu Dec 11, 2008 5:24 am

Sorry, it is black smoke. The smoke you normally get when you labour a diesel engine. You can smell it. Definitely not oil.

Yes it is full mechanical injection.

I got the idea from reading about a (i think VW golf diesel)
There were 3 engines, Diesel, turbo diesel and ecconno diesel, which was the same engine/turbo setup as the turbo diesel, but without the boost enrichment
Current rides: 2016 Mitsubishi Triton GLS & 2004 Forester X
Ongoing Project/Toy: 1987 RX Turbo EA82T, Speeduino ECU, Coil-pack ignition, 440cc Injectors, KONI adjustale front struts, Hybrid L Series/ Liberty AWD 5sp
Past rides: 92 L series turbo converted wagon, 83 Leone GL Sedan, 2004 Liberty GT Sedan & 2001 Outback
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Xtreme_RX
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Post by Xtreme_RX » Thu Dec 11, 2008 7:38 am

With full mechanical injection you can ad a turbo on. But you will need a boost compensator to adjust the fuel volume & timing.

Just be aware that diesels will pull over boost on small turbos very Easy.
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clarkey
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Post by clarkey » Thu Dec 11, 2008 8:45 am

Suparoo wrote:I have had a thought and i want verification that i am on the right track.

On dads farm, there is a 30hp 4cly diesel engine out of a Japanese rice harvester powering an irrigator (large volume and pressure) centrifugal water pump.

The engine runs at max throttle to maintain the required pump RPM and thus pressure to supply the irrigator.

At max throttle, the little engine is throwing out heaps of blue smoke (unbrunt fuel) trying to maintain power.

If we geared it lower, it'd have to rev higher to achieve the required pump RPM, if we geared it higher, it would labour even more.


My idea.......

Add a turbo!

The extra air that the turbo provides will use up that un burnt fuel and give a little more power so i can run at lower throttle.

I have been told that i would need to mod the injector pump to give extra fueling under boost, but i figured that seeing that there is already unburnt fuel coming out the exhaust, and i only plan on running low boost, it wouldnt be a problem.

I was thinking of using a 2nd hand turbo from a twin turbo liberty.

I work at total eden and if you have got a 30hp pump, how much water are you using?? how much is the pump accually be putting out??

If you are trying to move more water than you have got, (to much) then you are going to kill your pump, and that sounds like what you are doing, how big is the area that you are irrorgating?? another thing that you want to think about is how far the pump is sucking the water from, if you are trying to pull it from to far away then you are going to be fludding the engine, you are better off moving the pump closer to the suction point if posible and having more discharge distance, if that doesnt work then im sorry to say, but you are up for a new pump. and ill help sort you out with one of them for a good price, just have to come into totals canning vale or call me on 9455 3338 and ask for michael, but try reducing the suction length and making the discharge run longer first.

cheers

Michael
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Previous rides: 1998 rx liberty sedan, 2007 mitsu 380 and now a 2005 foz, lifted with bigger and black wheels ( Got rolled :( ) and now a 100 series land cruiser.

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subarooster
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Post by subarooster » Thu Dec 11, 2008 10:26 pm

lol, i'm thinking that he just wants a new project and that he doesn't genuinely want his fathers pump to provide safer, less polluting power. Correct Gannon? :P the offer still stands if you want to turbo the rodeo. :)

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